The first question is like you said the wiring.
Secondly I wouldn’t give $1 for the head unit considering most people these days want Android Auto or Apple Car Play.
I’ve seen the sub and amps with bracket selling for as low as $300
I’ve had my Tokico D-Specs since 2005 and they now have over 100,000 miles on them.
I’m running probably every piece of Steeda suspension ever made on my car.
The car is also nose heavy due to the blower and related components.
The roads up here are terrible which is why I’d rather have...
If your car is severely lowered you need adjustable tie rod ends to put the tie rods parallel to the control arms otherwise you will get what’s called bump steer.
There are also special lower ball joints to help correct the roll center.
It sounds like you're firing the parts cannon at the car.
I would begin with verifying all grounds and making sure you have no voltage drop across any of them.
Don't forget the ground strap behind the cylinder head.
If you are going with an aftermarket ATI Super Damper you will need a longer crank bolt
ARP 206-1001. The ATI Super Damper should also come with a .031" spacer that sits behind the hub.
The stock damper uses ARP 156-2501
I have a Saleen supercharger on mine so the alternator is flipped around backwards and the clutch pulley is removed for obvious reasons. Since it spins in reverse the cooling fan in the alternator isn't doing much.
I've fried several alternators on long trips so I have been carrying a spare...
There should be no up and down movement on the alternator pulley.
The original alternator should also have a one way pulley so it cannot spin backwards.
Remove the fan belt and check all the idler pulleys for a bad bearing.
I would even start it for a minute or so without the belt to see if the sound is still present.
Not too long since the water pump won't be spinning.
I doubt that it is phaser or timing related.
Timing cover gaskets (3) and timing cover seal should be included in the M-6004-463V kit.
Also a new crankshaft bolt F5RZ6A340B is required since it is torque to yield.
https://iihs.net/fsm/?d=40&f=Wipers and Washers.pdf
I believe that your problem is probably coming from the Smart Junction Box in the passenger footwell.
There have been many cars that had a leaky cowl and the water runs down into the SJB causing many problems.
As you can see one of the fuses...
What is the exact issue with the vehicle?
Did it catch fire?
Is it some local shop that is telling you this or the Ford dealer?
You should check is if any of the relays or wires in the fuse box melted.
Disconnect the battery and separate the top and bottom halves of the fuse box and look for...