Recent content by Unexplodedcow

  1. U

    Different years and injector models.

    Thanks for the info @StockishS197 ! Yep, all purple, and likely the LU24A as they're stock to the car. The older ones from the '07 manifold were all black pieces. The bottom pintle area was different - the black ones are more conical inside with a smaller plastic surround, while the purple ones...
  2. U

    Different years and injector models.

    Was finally putting the stock '10 manifold back on with the CMCV delete after plugging the back holes a little better (and replacing a hose that leaked). I had been using an '07 stock manifold in the interim. It came with Injectors but I never paid attention to the differences. The stock '07...
  3. U

    Driveshaft

    I wrote them off as a vendor, and refuse to do business with them again. Their warranty is as good as their word: worthless.
  4. U

    Driveshaft

    Several years back I went through a phase on my 2010 of lowering, changing the suspension bits and putting in a 1 piece driveshaft. I went with DSS at first but it kept making a metallic "tink" sound when starting off from a dead stop. DSS claimed the joint was bottoming out and we're going to...
  5. U

    Rear LCA experiences over the years

    Happy post Thanksgiving "bliss!" On a whim I wanted to report: it's been a couple years, I've put a few thousand miles on the car since, took it out with the wide tires (NT05 295 width all 4 corners) and spent this past summer having fun. I've had zero clunks or issues out of the suspension -...
  6. U

    UCA bushings and bolts needed to complete job

    I had a UMI roto-joint UCA with bracket. Later switched to a J&M design that's held up much better. Stock diff. bushing went pretty quickly after that, and I put in a urethane bushing (which tore), and quickly went to a Steeda spherical bearing. Took off the anti-whine weights as well. I can...
  7. U

    Clunk Clunk Sound.

    I'm going to hazard a guess at gear lash - many of these cars have heavy gear lash in the rear ends (my '10 GT with 3.73s does it pretty badly). I had an '07 V6 that made the same clunks, but milder. Switching to a 1 piece driveshaft helped (less mass), but it still clunks.
  8. U

    Rear LCA experiences over the years

    ] It sounds like you have a similar setup as my car, so I can hazard a few guesses. Oh yeah, I also had to replace the roto-joint on the pandhard bar, as it was causing side-to-side clunks. It was also the Delrin liner that had cold-flowed and stuck, causing binding and wear, which lead to...
  9. U

    Alternative CMCV delete plate brand to avoid

    The epoxy would need to be long term resistant to the typical heat range and chemicals. I will look at the datasets that I can find. The O ring path these plates used was identical to the OE path, only shallower. Had it been roughly 0.1" deeper, the OE gasket would have functioned normally. I...
  10. U

    Alternative CMCV delete plate brand to avoid

    His plates are identical to the Steeda parts, minus the OE gasket groove. Makes me think they're early Steeda prototypes or copies.
  11. U

    Alternative CMCV delete plate brand to avoid

    I have a '10 and was switching it out to the earlier type with aluminum plates. The Steeda CMCV delete plugs for the later all-plastic intakes are bad at sealing, and with time, will leak. Not a great solution, and Steeda stopped selling them. It's been regular maintenance to ensure they seal...
  12. U

    Alternative CMCV delete plate brand to avoid

    Posting this as I'm still currently dealing with this. Rapid Precision Machining and Fab in Pompano Beach, Fl, and its owner, Adam Louramore, try to sell a CNC-made CMCV delete plate for the 4.6L 3V engines. They look almost identical to the Steeda billet plates, with one small exception: they...
  13. U

    Rear LCA experiences over the years

    Update: It's been a month - the car is clunk free. Not being able to re-use the UMI body bracket due to collapse kind of sucked, but the stock one works just fine, even with the spherical bearing in the diff and J&M extreme joint UCA. As "luck" would have it, I received two driver-side LCAs...
  14. U

    Rear LCA experiences over the years

    The J&M Extremes use a polyurethane bushing on the ball, which should hold up better. I had their polyball versions a while back and put a lot of miles on them - they worked fine, too, so I suspect their extreme joints will do nicely. Urethane is at least less likely to cold flow or wear in...
  15. U

    Rear LCA experiences over the years

    I finally had some help and was able to crawl under the car and determine the source of the clunks. At this point, none of the bolts were loose - hooray, I solved that issue. Thread locker plus jam nuts....that is unlikely to come loose. The real source of the clunks was obvious once I got the...
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