Recent content by Unexplodedcow

I had a UMI roto-joint UCA with bracket. Later switched to a J&M design that's held up much better. Stock diff. bushing went pretty quickly after that, and I put in a urethane bushing (which tore), and quickly went to a Steeda spherical bearing. Took off the anti-whine weights as well. I can...

I'm going to hazard a guess at gear lash - many of these cars have heavy gear lash in the rear ends (my '10 GT with 3.73s does it pretty badly). I had an '07 V6 that made the same clunks, but milder. Switching to a 1 piece driveshaft helped (less mass), but it still clunks.

] It sounds like you have a similar setup as my car, so I can hazard a few guesses. Oh yeah, I also had to replace the roto-joint on the pandhard bar, as it was causing side-to-side clunks. It was also the Delrin liner that had cold-flowed and stuck, causing binding and wear, which lead to...

The epoxy would need to be long term resistant to the typical heat range and chemicals. I will look at the datasets that I can find. The O ring path these plates used was identical to the OE path, only shallower. Had it been roughly 0.1" deeper, the OE gasket would have functioned normally. I...

His plates are identical to the Steeda parts, minus the OE gasket groove. Makes me think they're early Steeda prototypes or copies.

I have a '10 and was switching it out to the earlier type with aluminum plates. The Steeda CMCV delete plugs for the later all-plastic intakes are bad at sealing, and with time, will leak. Not a great solution, and Steeda stopped selling them. It's been regular maintenance to ensure they seal...

Posting this as I'm still currently dealing with this. Rapid Precision Machining and Fab in Pompano Beach, Fl, and its owner, Adam Louramore, try to sell a CNC-made CMCV delete plate for the 4.6L 3V engines. They look almost identical to the Steeda billet plates, with one small exception: they...

Update: It's been a month - the car is clunk free. Not being able to re-use the UMI body bracket due to collapse kind of sucked, but the stock one works just fine, even with the spherical bearing in the diff and J&M extreme joint UCA. As "luck" would have it, I received two driver-side LCAs...

The J&M Extremes use a polyurethane bushing on the ball, which should hold up better. I had their polyball versions a while back and put a lot of miles on them - they worked fine, too, so I suspect their extreme joints will do nicely. Urethane is at least less likely to cold flow or wear in...

I finally had some help and was able to crawl under the car and determine the source of the clunks. At this point, none of the bolts were loose - hooray, I solved that issue. Thread locker plus jam nuts....that is unlikely to come loose. The real source of the clunks was obvious once I got the...

You're a brave man to marry golf cart batteries and bags of corn.

In your case, I would suspect shock mounts at either top or bottom, perhaps even swaybar mounts.

Not always. TTY is really about the application. Any bolt can be yielded with enough torque applied, which is why specifications and bolt grades exist - the higher grades resist yielding/deforming to a greater degree. However, once their limit is reach, they too will yield. A TTY torque spec is...

The first time I noted TTY head bolts in a Ford was the 80s Escorts. Ford switched in...'83, I think, because the heads were warping when the engine overheated, and uneven torque was the cause (reusable bolts). So, they switched to TTY bolts, problem was better solved. Of course, they could've...

Torque to yield bolts usually have a numerical followed by an angular torque spec which will yield a bolt. However, when a numerical torque is provided, the bolt is almost certainly not going to yield, as a torque number is going to have variance on it per torque wrench, thread quality and if...