I vacuum bled from the bleeder nipple and from the line that returns to the master cylinder and I don’t get any more bubbles. The pedal feels good, and is getting movement out of the slave just not quite enough. Are there any other ways I could bleed it more completely?
I was thinking that but i went from stock clutch assembly to stock clutch assembly and checked for matching part numbers while switching out. There weren't any shims on the initial clutch setup so I assumed it was fine. Is it possible I would still need to measure and put shims when switching...
Also as a secondary (possibly stupid) question could this be resolved by breaking in the clutch and effectively machining down the clutch plate through driving to be able to effectively disengage?
Clutch not fully disengaging, grinding in 4th and reverse, transmitting power in all gears (tr3650)
Recently rebuilt my tremec tr3650 transmission out of my 05 mustang gt and put it back in with a new clutch, pressure plate, and hydraulic throw out bearing. Now that ive got everything together...