Clutch not fully disengaging rebuilt tr3650 new clutch kit

wardog795

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Clutch not fully disengaging, grinding in 4th and reverse, transmitting power in all gears (tr3650)

Recently rebuilt my tremec tr3650 transmission out of my 05 mustang gt and put it back in with a new clutch, pressure plate, and hydraulic throw out bearing. Now that ive got everything together the transmission goes into every gear clean while the car is off but when i turn it on it goes into every gear besides 4th and reverse. And when it goes into 4th or reverse it grinds. Whenever i go into any gear its transmitting a little power, not enough to move the car but enough to spin wheels with the back end in the air. This points me to clutch not fully disengaging. I feel that ive properly bled the system, and cant find anything about adjusting the clutch throw, what do I do? Im 18 and this is my first time im very inexperienced.

Video link of issue: https://streamable.com/ik6dbz
 

wardog795

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Also as a secondary (possibly stupid) question could this be resolved by breaking in the clutch and effectively machining down the clutch plate through driving to be able to effectively disengage?
 

wardog795

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If you've installed an aftermarket clutch assembly, there's a good chance you might need to add a shim behind the slave cylinder. This would bring it forward far enough so that when it's extended, it's applying proper pressure on the pressure plate fingers.
I was thinking that but i went from stock clutch assembly to stock clutch assembly and checked for matching part numbers while switching out. There weren't any shims on the initial clutch setup so I assumed it was fine. Is it possible I would still need to measure and put shims when switching out for the same clutch assembly?
 

whitmanink

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only other thing i can see is did you forget the bellhousing spacer plate that goes inbetween the engine and trans? im sure you didn't ,, but stock to stock clutch and all should yield no issues,, and the only other thing i can think of , if the flywheel , TOB and clutch were replaced with stock
 

wardog795

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only other thing i can see is did you forget the bellhousing spacer plate that goes inbetween the engine and trans? im sure you didn't ,, but stock to stock clutch and all should yield no issues,, and the only other thing i can think of , if the flywheel , TOB and clutch were replaced with stock
Yeah I got that spacer plate, I replaced the clutch assembly and put in a new flywheel. Thanks for the response!
 

86GT351

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COuld very well be air in the line as well. Don't continue to drive like this. You will end up damaging the transmission as well.
 

Miker

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Why would only reverse and 4th grind? I could see reverse in a trans without a syncro but the 3650 has one on reverse.
 

wardog795

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COuld very well be air in the line as well. Don't continue to drive like this. You will end up damaging the transmission as well.
I vacuum bled from the bleeder nipple and from the line that returns to the master cylinder and I don’t get any more bubbles. The pedal feels good, and is getting movement out of the slave just not quite enough. Are there any other ways I could bleed it more completely?
 

Midlife Crises

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You very likely need to add a shim between the transmission and slave cylinder just like Dino recommended. Shimming the hydraulic unit is very common to eliminate clutch drag. If you keep driving you will ruin the gears that are nibbling and they will have to be replaced.
 

Midlife Crises

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Why would only reverse and 4th grind? I could see reverse in a trans without a syncro but the 3650 has one on reverse.
Just weird the way things stack up. When I had a 3650, second gear was the nibbler. When I tore up third I didn’t bother fixing it.
 

Bigearl

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I installed a new Exedy complete clutch in my 2007 GT motor and 3650 tranny. I did measure and shim by 3/8 and bled the clutch until no air bubbles, but like yours wouldn't fully disengage. I then sat there and pumped the clutch maybe a 100 times and voila, it solved it. As others have said keep pumping and bleeding. Always best to measure up for shims however.
It would grind in first and reverse as in the higher gears the syncro is assisting or overcoming the mismatch of speeds, but the syncros won't last long.

Factory Five Roadster Mk4
 

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