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Two thoughts to add to the equation that are not so obvious on these 05+ clutches. One is that some brands of clutch kits need a spacer behind the hydraulic cylinder to give it a little more throw due to the design being a little different from OE. Second is that IF the car has somehow managed...

it is normal to have rotational backlash in these manual transmissions. There is no adjustment for the gear lash, but there are shims that can tighten the bearings, but that only affects the endplay. For transmissions PRIOR to 2005 you can pull the yoke and see if the tail shaft has...

Yes, I totally missed that you have the XL Kit in there. So, what I said applies only to people with the original TR3650 transmissions. I will add that with SOME aftermarket clutches (and the RXT is a great clutch) it is sometimes necessary to add a spacer plate behind the hydraulic cylinder on...

If your transmission still has the stock 10-spline shaft and your car has 600+ rwhp then you will be wasting your money to put ANY clutch in that doesn't have the 26 spline hub. Of course, that will require changing your input shaft to match as well. I've seen LOTS of twisted 10-spline input...

Unfortunately, that 2005-up T-5 is a unique animal. Yes, gears from a T5Z or even the Astro A-5 gears and G-Force Street gears will go inside, BUT if it will be bolted to the original V-6 bell housing there is NO INPUT SHAFT made that is the correct length that goes with those gears. Also, the...

My preference is Permatex Ultra-Black. It seals well, but does not dry up so terribly hard. Those super-duper sealants dry hard like epoxy and make it really hard to get apart and really hard to remove the old epoxy to seal it again next time.

The "curl" of the nylon material flopping from the nut doesn't hurt anything, but I agree that it indicates the nut has been off. It is possible that the nut could be loose enough to be leaking. My little Makita battery impact seems to only tighten to around 20-22 ft/lbs. It could never...

So was the flange seal all scrunched up behind that nut?

The Ford flange seal is a 4R3Z-7E397-A The Ford Tail seal for an 05-10 is a 4R3Z-7052-AA I don't know if Ford still offers these or not, but I think they are readily available.

What I just said about installing the flange WAS COVERED in the Service Manual "TR3650 Assembly" pdf posted above in steps 57, 58, and 59 but it is not clear as to why you would want to "forget" to install the flange seal the first time and go back and install it later...

This may not be as simple as a leaky seal... The TR3650 is NOTORIOUS for developing a crack in the extension housing just in line with the cross member. The leak will run to the rear lust like a bad seal, so be thorough with the examination and fix. This is true for both the 2001-2004 style...

I can't think of anything in the internals that would break and not allow the shifter lever to move from the third gear position. Now, other things can happen that it would remain in third even though the lever moved to neutral. In that case if the lever moved to fourth, then it would be in...

I've been afraid of the Amsoil ATF after I opened a T-5 several years ago that had been running it for several years. First, I will say that this was the CLEANEST T-5 I have ever opened (other than new) which speaks well for the cleaning additives in the Amsoil. BUT, the issue with that T-5...

I believe at one time the Pennzoil Synchromesh was suggested by Tremec Support, but that has since stopped. Synchromesh is the recommended fluid for a TKO and works well there with the BRONZE synchro rings. It still makes the insides get really sooty black and if used, it should be changed...

Going with gear oil will have long-term negative effects with your Tremec. Tremec's recommended fluids are better for your transmission in the long run and should always be used... I will say I have torn down several transmissions that have had gear oil in them or Synchromesh Fluid. Granted...

When I Google that fluid it comes upas a 75w40 GEAR OIL which is way too thick for the needle bearings in that T5. Also, Gear oil does not get along well with the carbon-fiber synchro rings either. Why not stay with the recommended Mercon-V ATF (Not Mercon LV) or even Dex/Merc. Dex/Merc is old...

Looks like you are ell on your way! Yes, that clip will break and especially if it has been spread a bit when it was last removed. Having a spare for parts is a great idea. I thought I would share about compatibility of parts through the years. I am thinking particularly about the gears...

That one is required!!!

Just the three little check balls? Honestly, all they do is keep the three thrust washers from spinning on the shaft. As much of a detail person as I am, I can't say that it would hurt anything to have left them out. However, I can't allow myself to leave them out since I have a reputation...

From my experience, Mercon-V ATF is fine. It is a Synthetic blend and is readily available in generic form. It is said that Tremec used Mobil-1 Synthetic ATF when developing the TR3650. I believe that Tremec only suggested the Synchromesh fluid for a short time before taking it away from the...

When I listen to the sounds in the audio I go back to that rear cluster bearing because that is the sound I have heard it make. When describing noises people use different terms and that is why I seem to be going all over the place. This thread calls it a "Grinding" noise. That wording makes...

Put it in Fourth gear and the only play in the transmission will be the yoke and the clutch splines. The input shaft will be coupled to the output shaft directly by the 3-4 Synchro hub assembly. (There will be very little play in a synchro hub itself.) In any other gear, say first, the play is...

Hmm, something seems to be going on in the clutch area if the pedal engages so close to the floor. It could be a stretched cable, or the quadrant adjustor could have slipped. The adjustment for the cable is to pull up on the pedal. You did say this is a 2002? A bad throwout bearing can make...

Almost anything can happen... When I think "I've seen it all" something new surfaces! If there is some debris in the bearing so that it doesn't want to spin freely it would be easier to spin on the shaft than to "roll". I'm not offended. I just know that there are lots of people on forums...

That is true about the output shaft bearing and that one rarely goes bad because it is so large and heavy-duty, BUT, NO, I am talking about the rear CLUSTER SHAFT bearing. Now, if that cluster bearing went completely bad it would make noise anytime the input shaft is turning, (input shaft gear...