Search results for query: *

I bought this car (2006 GT) in 2016 with a Viper alarm on it. No idea what was done with the Ford system other than the PATS light does flash on the dash when it is turned off. Well, The Viper died yesterday and even after reprogramming it will not receive the remote, yes the remote is working...

Mine has done that for 3 years, never got worse or better. I think there was a bulletin about the separator plate between the engine and transmission rubbing the flywheel under just the right conditions. I figure I will find it this summer when I swap out the tranny and put in a new clutch.

"Speed costs money, How fast do you want to go?" That quote has been around as long as racing and it fits as well today as it did 75 years ago.

I thought I updated this page but I guess I forgot. I had opened a new thread on the problem for some reason and that was the one I put the solution on. The solution to the problem turned out to be replacing the catalytic converters. Even though the upstream converters were not throwing a code...

Well, That is a brilliant statement to make. So what in your exalted opinion, do you think we should use?

Steve, it is attached to the roof and holds the door gasket. I did find it online but they are pricey for what they are. P/N CR3Z-6351238-A and 9-A After seeing how they are put together and seeing the water entry problem I can see the problem lies in the design of the part where the water gets...

I found a few on E-bay and Tasca does have them listed. All are around 150.00! I think I will clean mine up and look into gluing the two halves together. I can see a definite design problem with that two piece bit. The water that comes in from the roof side only has a very small width of gasket...

I posted a message on his board on here also. I knew I was in trouble when the screws were coming out with sticky black gunk on them! I can probably glue the two halves of the trim panels back together but I would rather go with new if available and reasonable price.

I am going to post this here since I do not see any other place for body related posts. I am replacing the seals on the upper trim panels and I found someone had been there before and put some sort of goo in there and in the process of trying to get it out so the new seals will adhere the two...

This is the one that takes the gasket that always leaks above both doors on the 2006 Mustang. Mine had been gooped up with something and in the process of trying to get it clean enough to put the new seals on the two piece trim panel is falling apart. I would really like to replace it with new...

You should NEVER EVER use the crank bolt to pull in the damper!!! That is why there is a tool for that with a bearing on it for pressing in the damper with the threaded portion of the tool fully engaged and not turning and stressing the threads.

You are forgetting all of the ancillary equipment that also has to be changed. it adds up to a good sum of money and junkyard engines are certainly no guarantee. I would not put one in without a complete rebuild.

Why would you make a statement like that? You have no idea what is good or bad in there. I see absolutely nothing there that would tell me there is anything wrong with the block at all. The heads are probably gone along with the cams and the crank probably need to be polished but there should be...

The biggest problem you have now is all that metal that circulated through the engine. That cam is history. So you need a head and at least one cam. You need to pull the other side and see how much damage was done by the metallic oil there. You are also going to need to check the rod and main...

Changed to PM

I'll take the transmission. I may be able to pick up. On edit, shipping will be cheaper due to 700 mile round trip. Do you have a Fastenall near you?

You DID use new phaser bolts didn't you?! If not you had better take it apart and put new ones in or you will be picking up pieces!

I am pretty sure this all goes through the SJB so we all know the drill. Water from door and firewall leaks corrodes the SJB and connector and causes all kinds of weird problems. I would check there also.

The spike I am talking about is showing up on a data log as an 1850 volt spike. Did it before and after the cat and O2 replacement so that has to be induction from somewhere. The problem I am having is one side is reading 750, as do all my other vehicles and the other side hovers at .04. That is...

Well, If there is one thing I cannot stand it is a thread with no solution. Here is a sort of a solution since the car is now running pretty good. It had thrown a code for a non functioning converter on bank 2. I was not all that worried about it since I did not have any symptoms of a plugged...

There is no PCV valve on a 2008 and there should be no hose going to the manifold. There is a hose going to the air intake before the throttle body but there is no vacuum on that line. The only hoses with vacuum on them go to the fuel pressure sensor and to the power brake booster. They are...

And sand in the gas tank does what? Besides lays in the bottom of the tank like ballast. I have cleaned out tanks with sand, sugar, brake filings and a few other unidentified items. They all just lay on the bottom of the tank and sometimes, if enough is put in they will clog a fuel filter. Sugar...

Most shops I know of nowadays have cameras that are installed BY the insurance companies so that if there are any insurance claims involving anything that happens in the shop the company is covered. They STRICTLY prohibit any non employee from being in a work area. You could run the risk of...

I just LOVE the people that say to cut stuff!!!!!! The filter went in without cutting stuff, it will come out without cutting! As skwerl said, two bolts and lift it up to remove.

I find it hard top believe that those valves were not sealing looking at those compression numbers.