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Well I finally figured it out! When the clutch was replaced one of the sensor wires was caught between the bell housing and the engine, this caused the short and therefore the persistent CEL. Having the original installer fix the issue at no charge. The wiring harness for the sensors is being...

I’m also assuming both upstreams are the same, if I switch them and the code disappears, is there an issue with just leaving it alone?

Thanks for all the help! I’ll try changing sides and see what happens

I’ll try that

That’s what I thought, I exchanged it yesterday for another new one and installed. I thought I had it beat until I drove it both highway and city for about an hour with no light. Let it cool for about two hours and started it in the driveway. After about a minute idling the CEL lit back up and...

No just bank 2, but that’s the one the code is coming from via the code reader

Well, I guess I’m back to a wiring issue. The Bosch 17263 is the one I have.

Are the voltage parameters different on lower end sensors? That would make sense to me for it throwing a false code. Are the parameters tighter on NTK and Motorcraft sensors? I found a motorcraft sensor on rock auto that is the right one, but already spent money for the other two sensors and...

For the upstream? That’s an incredible price, mine are over 200$ each (NTK’s)

Pins on the male plug are fine, I checked them several times while replacing the sensor

Good to know on the NTK/NGK parts, thanks. I had an issue finding the right sensor, apparently ford changed midstream in manufacturing, the sensors changed in March of 2011, mine was built in December 2010, so Leary about buying online and having the wrong one sent to me

I’m assuming the damage would be between the plug for the O2 sensor and the PCM, since the O2 sensor is new

The code it’s throwing is a P0151 (low sensor voltage for longer than 2minutes) again only when it’s cold does it activate the CEL. Guess I’ll be looking for a short in the wiring harness. I replaced the sensor again yesterday and cleared the code after it was warm, drove it for over an hour and...

I bought Bosch replacements, no one has the others in stock. Guess I’ll be ordering online

Axle back exhaust, drop in k&n air filter, no tune

But with that being said, wouldn’t it stand to reason that the check engine light would come on when it’s warm instead of cold?

I was thinking about the short also, but why would it only throw the code if it is cold? If it is a short then wouldn’t it just throw the code even if it was cleared, at operating temp or not?

I have a ‘11 GT (5.0, 108K miles) with the check engine light on. Codes were for bad O2 sensors bank 1 sensor 2 and bank 2 sensor 1, I have changed both sensors. Now it is telling me that bank 2 sensor 1 has a low voltage code and the check engine light is on again. I took the upstream sensor...