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My cars also a stick with the stock 3:55 gears with a 28" drag radial. The car runs pretty close to stock as far as street manners go. I regularly drive it an hour back and forth to work with no issues in traffic, or stop and go situations. Its all in the tune in my opinion.

I'm running the comp 127550 blower cams with the phasers locked and the comp 26125-24 high lift beehive springs. I believe they're rated for 650 max lift. I've zero issues with this setup.

I use a 15w40 in my supercharged 05 gt, but I live in Southeast Texas. Its never cold enough here to worry about the oil being too thick, but its damn sure too hot during the summer to run a 5w20 in a performance application in my opinion.

If its an 09 engine and harness, use the 09 computer.

Easy answer is if its bent, change it. If the car is lowered or you plan on lowering it in the future, get an adjustable one.

They all need to line up correctly. Verify top dead center and start over. Put the correct timing mark link on the sprocket first then move the cam where it needs to be, repeat for the chain on the other cam. The crank is covered in this pic but the cam timing marks should look like this.

I'm running the comp 127550's with the phasers locked out with a Roush phase 2 r2300 blower with supporting mods tuned by Lund. I Drive the car an hour to work atleast 3 times a week and it drives like a stock car, still getting over 21mpg on the freeway. Its an absolute beast when you hit the...

I run the Ngauge tuned by Lund. It works flawlessly.

Shaker 500 will have the 2 8's in the lower doors and the shaker 1000 adds 2 10's in the trunk. If it doesn't have the subs in the doors its not a shaker system.

I installed a Roush r2300 stage 2 kit on my 2005 gt and some comp 127550 blower cams with the phasers locked and a lund tune. The car had 152,000 miles on it. As long as the car was maintained correctly and you have a good tuner you should be alright.

I installed the Roush tvs2300 phase 2 kit on my 2005 with 156,000 miles on it. As long as the car was maintained with scheduled oil changes you should be fine.

The m122 isnt going to make enough power to hurt the 3v unless the tune is wrong. I have a fbo 05 with the phase 2 tvs2300 kit making around 12psi. It bent a rod and broke a piston skirt about 2 months after install. The car did have 155,000 rough miles before I installed the supercharger...

Have you visually checked to see if the throttle blades are opening like they are supposed to? Did you do an idle relearn after installing new throttle body?

The motor is out of time and there was most definitely piston to valve contact.

My car is tuned by Lund and they did a great job but they are no longer taking 3v customers. They're trying to focus more on the new coyote stuff.

@Mustang dog my car is already locked out so it should make it easier then. @ponys197 I'm looking to make the change to Holley next year sometime, I'll definitely hit you up when I do.

Don't feel bad man. I have the R2300 phase 2 kit on mine and when I pulled the motor out to fix a bent rod and broken piston, I did the exact same thing. On a stock car they wont reach, but with the supercharger you move the plugs closer together and this can happen. They look identical, so...

Definitely sounds like a cam phaser issue.

There is no Termi x plug and play for the 3v. You have to adapt one from a 2v/4v. I spoke with Holley a few weeks ago because I was worried about the same thing you are.

Get rid of them. Over time they get gunked up with carbon amd dont work anyway.

Mine was a 2003 z71 Avalanche without the dod. Every motor I put in it had lifter and oiling issues. I went to a 2012 fx4 3.5 ecoboost and Ive never had an issue with the motor or tranny. Its got 212000+ miles on it now, running 38" tires and will gap a stock 5.3 chevy.

I went through 3 5.3's on a stock work truck along with 3 4l60's. Total freakin garbage motors.

I changed mine at 140,000 with the motor at operating temp and didn't have a single issue. I've also changed them several times since then because I have a boosted car and I remove them often to make sure everything is running ok. The key is to take your time and work them out slowly. Going half...

Like everyone else said, just go with the LT's. It takes the same amount of time to install with almost zero gains ove4 stock manifolds. I've had the Pypes LT's on mine with O/R X for years with zero issues. Easiest way to do it is using a strut tower engine hoist/holder and drop the kmember.