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I wouldn't call it permanent, but here is what I did. https://mustangforums.com/forum/2005-2014-mustangs/738695-shaker-500-battery-drain-workaround.html

this has me concerned right here. why would the phaser bolts be loose? you said car was stock before supercharger install and the only thing you did was remove the cam covers. seems to me that if you have been turning the engine over with loose phaser bolts, some damage may have been done to...

i do not think it is. if you still have catalytic convertors, be cautious of sending too much raw fuel down the line. 30-50 psi is typical for KOEO. https://iihs.net/fsm/?d=312&f=SPECIFICATIONS.pdf

if you still have stock radio, pull fuse 56 in BEC and measure again.

I have an extremely old version, if you absolutely must have it, I will find a way to get it to you. The LiveLoad software does the same thing as far as I remember, and is much better product. ET by hammeron posted Aug 13, 2021 at 11:11 AMLiveLoad by hammeron posted Aug 13, 2021 at 11:11 AM

yes, i do not have ac on unless car is rolling, for the same reason.

the high initial rev at cold start annoyed me, until I reduced the RPM adders in the tune to around 180 for all of them, iirc. also, setting your idle and drive rpm to 850 might help the car run a bit smoother when not fully up to temp.

i do love that sound and congrats on the install!

http://iihs.net/fsm/?d=163&f=Cylinder%20Head.pdf&p=2

very nice numbers!

i seem to recall that the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor sometimes failed under hard launch conditions. If you remove the vacuum line that runs from the FRPS to the Intake Manifold and smell gas in it, that might mean it has failed. Good luck and beautiful car

i'm going to guess that a family member of the recently departed, was enjoying the mustang but was putting in regular gas until it blew. as far as reliability... just run 10psi, get a conservative dyno tune and run 92 octane.

mine is in a shed, might put it back on some day....

Ken Belle tune + the next size bigger, blower pulley. you may only sacrifice 20hp and the A/F might be right where you want it....just an option.

you take the intake valve opening number (19 in your case) then subtract it from 360. This is the value you put in the injector timing field. the way you have it set to 341 is correct for a cam which opens the intake valve 19* BTDC.

absolutely beautiful! thanks for updating

ok, check the fuel rail pressure sensor. pull the vacuum line off of it and smell for gasoline.

that is a beautiful car! congrats

nice choice! i have heard those cams in person and they sound great.

i bet it feels great! nicely done

i did not use the pins and wrote a warning with a black marker.

my dynotech engineering driveshaft came with an adapter, as described above. whether the four bolt pattern is what you need, i cannot say.

i just want to say nicely done for sticking with it and getting the job done! i was confused as well reading the posts and seeing the pictures, i did not know what end should go in, as well. anyhow the folks on this forum are the best of the best. when i had troubles, i got help from BruceH...

it looks great, enjoy the power. nice car color btw

that might be an air/oil seperator.