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The problem could be the terminals at the 6400/01 sensor module that is the connection hub for all the Nexus gauges. I have mine mounted on the driver kick panel and it's subject to a lot of vibration and dirt so I periodically use CRC contact spray and inspect/tighten the contact points. No...

If it got progressively worse, it might also be the throttle position sensor. Check for frayed/short to ground wires and then check the TPS voltage. Should be between 1.19 and 1.31 volts. If its the wires - repair; if its the TPS - replace.

I agree, if it happens when the car is in gear and in neutral. If you can't replicate the condition when the transmission is in neutral (freewheeling) then in all probability it is not the converter intermittently failing. IMHO, the only other cause would be a vacuum leak. Just my .02.

I believe that is correct. Here's a post I found on another forum asking the same question: "I'm the Director of Marketing for Dayco Products in North America. A few years ago we changed our national brand __af_placement_id--[AFF-PLACEMENT-ID].html"]serpentine belt construction from Poly Cog...

I would have thought that the fuse should be something less than the max output of the alternator. In other words if my alternator was rated at 135 amps, I would want the fuse to blow at possibly 125 amps in order to protect the electronics from the alternator going haywire and overcharging. I...

I agree. Looks like one of the caliper guide pin bolts (13mm) either worked itself loose or is stripped causing insufficient torque. Loctite or buy new guide pins/bolts - Autozone under $10. If you replace the pins also get new boots and one of those little green packets of lube.

I am not a tuner but I do know a couple of things that might help: 1. The PCM Code is the four alpha/numeric code on the label attached to the PCM box. The PCM Code identifies the base computer software. 2. The strategy code is the software/firmware revision number of the PCM Code. 3...

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Oooops! Deleted. Not totally relevant to OP's question.

+1 for Raptor. I've had mine on 5-1/2 years with zero issues.

Are you sure it's the alternator bracket that is causing the misalignment and not the blower? Before shimming a brand new bracket I'd realign the Supershaker by loosening the eight intake bolts and pulling the shaker as far forward as possible, firmly tighten the bolts and recheck the...

Mine is 2 years installed and perfect from day 1.

Mine does the same .... so, not to worry.

I agree. Also, if you just installed an aftermarket e-brake handle you might have torqued the set screws too tight. Loosen them up and your e-brake should work.

+1. The Series VI is notorious for its rotor clash. Here's a maintenance .pdf

A great reason to give him a call. To me, there's nothing like a one-on-one conversation to get specific about an issue. Worth a try IMO; maybe he's got updated info.

Have you tried calling Scott at MoSaleen? Seems I recall about a year and a half ago he was testing a solution to belt shredding with the Thumprrr tensioner 8 rib. His fix might also address the chirping. IMHO he'd be a good source to call and it seems he answers his phone 24/7.

Yep, happened to me when I was installing my S/C. The space is so tight that a 90 degree drill wouldn't work. I jury-rigged a bracket using flat 1/2" wide flat aluminum bent into the right shape to mount onto the firewall. It's been 6 years and just a week ago I took off my S/C for...

Here's a link from another forum. Starting at post #26 by fake68. He started with 2" square bar but for him it was too high so he went to 1-1/2". I've removed my seats to reupholster and its not a difficult job. Looks like a viable solution for those with short wife/gf...

Have you tried the window reset TSB? I know you have an '08 but it might work.

If it is a blown fuse in the SJB, it would probably be fuse #6. Ford uses a slow-blow fuse so it may not look blown but if you look very closely, it is. Replace the fuse in any case and see if that's the culprit. Hope this helps.

:popcorneat:

I read somewhere that if you've done the key off/on/restart thing and cleared the DTC and the only two codes that come back up are 2104 and 2111 or 2112 then the issue is with the PCM. If you haven't already, try unplugging the negative battery cable for a half hour to activate the re-learn...

^^^+1. My idler squeaked on hard deceleration after WOT. The tensioner pulled back and warped the plastic idler and took it out of round, which caused it to squeal like a stuck pig.

Oops - I see you already got your answer.