Saleen Supercharger Oil VERY Low, This Is What Caused Whining Noise!

ZmanM3

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ok, call me dumb, but im overseas right now and can't look at my car. the saleen is fairly new on the car but after my rebuild, its been making a noise and i wanna check the oil, but im not quite sure how...anyone got a write up?

I don't have a write up, but you basically have to take off the coolant crossover by the front snout of the S/C off along with the alternator and belt. Below the snout of the S/C is a brass fitting that I think you'll need an Allen wrench to take off. It is also the fill hole. To get the oil out you'll beed a vacuum pump or something to suck the oil out. The oil should be up to the threads of the fill hole.
 

Lupo222

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Thanks! My S/C makes a weird almost grinding/whining noise when I am not on the gas too hard. It goes away once I start to get into it a little bit though. Very strange to me so thats something I'll try when I get home over the summer before i send it out to be rebuilt
 

ZmanM3

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Thanks! My S/C makes a weird almost grinding/whining noise when I am not on the gas too hard. It goes away once I start to get into it a little bit though. Very strange to me so thats something I'll try when I get home over the summer before i send it out to be rebuilt

How loud is it? Mine has always made the coffee grinder sound, it just goy really loud when I dumped the oil and ran it with low oil and messed it up.
 

JTallon08GT

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sounds like a wood chipper, always has, thats normal. the drone whining sounds are what is bad.
 

Redfire281

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sounds like a wood chipper, always has, thats normal. the drone whining sounds are what is bad.

+1. The Series VI is notorious for its rotor clash. Here's a maintenance .pdf
 

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OneQwkStang

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You can get away with out taking the coolant cross over off using this tool.
!B2p(D4QCGk~$(KGrHqJ,!hwE)qsn2uOBBMjTBLPzzQ~~_35.JPG


http://www.ebay.ca/itm/160724508352?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
 

nbk92

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Hello all

I just got my series VI back from Jason at 281 motorsports today. Wont be putting the sc back on till this weekend. I sent my sc off to Jason for this same exact reason as the OP. The only thing is my sc wasn't making any noise. When I drained the unit I got the same amount of fluid as the OP. As it turns out my nose drive needed to be replaced due to leaking from the snout. As was mentioned earlier in the post, I to had the sc fluid leaking out from the valley pan out onto the trans and to the ground. I noticed this at the begining of the summer. I had no idea it was the sc fluid until reading this post. The final straw in my decision to send the sc out was when i felt the sc fluid coming out from the inside back of the sc pulley. When I called Jason from 281, he explained that even if you have just 2drips of oil leaking from the sc it must be fixed.

So, to the OP. Don't mess around. Get the leak fixed. Like me i wasnt sure if the sc was leaking. Sure enough, it was. Cal Jason and talk to him. He is good people.
 

nbk92

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Thanks! My S/C makes a weird almost grinding/whining noise when I am not on the gas too hard. It goes away once I start to get into it a little bit though. Very strange to me so thats something I'll try when I get home over the summer before i send it out to be rebuilt

When I pulled my SC off the car, i only got about three ounces out. That said, my fluid was right up to the fill plug. When 281 took my sc apart they told me there wasn't any oil in the gear box. So, even though the fluid is up to the threads at the fill plug, you still my be low. Mine showed full, but only had about 3 ounces in there which is 5 ounces less.
 

JTallon08GT

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if its filled to the top of the plug how can it be low? Also how to i check to see if my bypass valve works?

brenspeed said to pull the hose off, and pull the valve up, and then plug the hole and then let go.

mine fell. is this correct?

also how much did they charge you? shipping each way was probably 75 dollars right?
 

frarmar

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Does this look familiar to anyone? There's the dampness on top of the snout there, and if you look closely you can see, there's even a bit of dampness where the heat exchanger part of the intake meets the top of the blower assembly.
101_1359-1.jpg


if its filled to the top of the plug how can it be low?
+1
 

JTallon08GT

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Does this look familiar to anyone? There's the dampness on top of the snout there, and if you look closely you can see, there's even a bit of dampness where the heat exchanger part of the intake meets the top of the blower assembly.
101_1359-1.jpg



+1

yea mine has like a wet dirty dusty look on the snout, around the coolant crossover and the from of the case. Just light tho. and there is wet dirty looking buildup all over the front timing cover and pulleys. around and in all the cracks. Nothing is dripping, just light buildup over the year.
 

nbk92

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if its filled to the top of the plug how can it be low? Also how to i check to see if my bypass valve works?

From what I was told there is sort of a lip in the gear box that keeps the oil either in front closest to the fill plug or keeps the oil towards the back of the gear box. If the oil is towards the front, it will show full. The oil that remains behind the lip, stays there. This is why the correct way to change the oil is to remove the gear box and let it drain completely. If the gear box is full the oil will be in front and behind the lip. I guess in short, taking the plug out and looking to see if the oil is up to the top is not an accurate way to check the oil. In my case, I only had about 3 ounces in there. When 281 pulled the nose drive there was very little oil to be found. Apparently, in my case, it was in front of the lip.

brenspeed said to pull the hose off, and pull the valve up, and then plug the hole and then let go.

mine fell. is this correct?

also how much did they charge you? shipping each way was probably 75 dollars right?

Does this look familiar to anyone? There's the dampness on top of the snout there, and if you look closely you can see, there's even a bit of dampness where the heat exchanger part of the intake meets the top of the blower assembly.

Yes. That is how my sc looked when it was leaking. I forgot to mention earlier that my pulleys where wet as well.
 
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JTallon08GT

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Yes. That is how my sc looked when it was leaking. I forgot to mention earlier that my pulleys where wet as well.

if it stays in the front lip when adding oil, how do we fill it properly?


EDIT: mine has to be full because i poured about 7 ounces in and it took all of it. so it has to be full where else would it have gone? LOL
 
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OneQwkStang

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Does this look familiar to anyone? There's the dampness on top of the snout there, and if you look closely you can see, there's even a bit of dampness where the heat exchanger part of the intake meets the top of the blower assembly.
101_1359-1.jpg



+1

That is leaking, check your blower oil level.
 

nbk92

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if it stays in the front lip when adding oil, how do we fill it properly?


EDIT: mine has to be full because i poured about 7 ounces in and it took all of it. so it has to be full where else would it have gone? LOL

I have the same question. When I find out I'll let you know.
 
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nbk92

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SC took all 8 ounces while on the bench. I believe the problem with the lip is when attepting to drain the SC. It doesn't all come out unless you take the nose drive off.
 

jymontoya

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I don't have a write up, but you basically have to take off the coolant crossover by the front snout of the S/C off along with the alternator and belt. Below the snout of the S/C is a brass fitting that I think you'll need an Allen wrench to take off. It is also the fill hole. To get the oil out you'll beed a vacuum pump or something to suck the oil out. The oil should be up to the threads of the fill hole.


Do you need to make any special precautions before removing the coolant crossover? I thought I remember reading something about there being a 'weep' hole in the back of the V that needed to be plugged, otherwise the water/coolant could get into the engine?
 

nbk92

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Do you need to make any special precautions before removing the coolant crossover? I thought I remember reading something about there being a 'weep' hole in the back of the V that needed to be plugged, otherwise the water/coolant could get into the engine?

No special precautions. Just drain the radiator a little before you take the crossover off.
 

JTallon08GT

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So I have now figured out that the whine sound only happens when the blower gets hot!

When the Saleen temp gauge reads over 100-110 it starts emitting a whine almost likes its under boost?
 

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