Hey Cavero. There’s a lot of good information here and some pretty good suggestions. You know you need new cams. This is an opportunity to try a different set. New lash adjusters and followers are a must and a timing set with phasers is a good idea. I would bet metal did not get through the filter but it certainly went through the oil pump and that would bother me. I would have to at least look at the gears in the pump. I am a fan of mobile 1, 5-30 or 10-30 because it works for me. Weather you rebuild the motor or not depends on what you honestly will do with it. I would not supercharge the stock bottom end and I would avoid 7,000 rpm bursts. The way I play, it would come apart and I’d be searching for a block.
just a few thoughts.
Yeah, I hear ya on trying something new. Certainly worth lookin at. Would want to know more about the 127500's in terms of idle and low RPM driveability though. I've really enjoyed the 127400's, and as far as idle goes, I liked how they idle similar to stock in terms of smoothness. I was talkin with my shop about components we'd replace, definitely cams, followers, probably timing chain guides and tensioners (might as well while you're in there). The phasers...
probably...but not sure if we have to. They're Livernois units with the internal limiters and were put in at the same time of the cams, so 26k mi on them.
Definitely if I end up on the supercharger route, it'd be with a full rebuild. So when you're saying avoid 7k RPM bursts, that's even N/A?
The bearings are fine...really they are.
10w30 is a bit thick for cold starts. You should use 5w30.
Seems like you are already set on rebuild and boost. This will be a lot more work and aggravation than most guys think. So start planning ahead. Who is going to build the engine? Are they reliable? Will they meet timelines and cost estimates? As for boost, I'd recommend getting a system from DOB. Who will be your tuner? Will he be reliable and available and provide updates as you run across drivability issues?
I did all my own work except for the short block and tuning (although I did collect a lot of data for the tuners) and it took years to get it all sorted out. Its not as easy as the internet makes it sound. I've got a stroker 302 3V, kenne bell, t56 and not one piece of stock suspension left. Plus 3 different throttle bodies, a couple clutches, 3 different tuners, 2 sets of injectors, fuel system upgrades, cooling and a lot more. If you are going to pay someone to do everything, it will get very expensive. That's how you spend 75k.
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It was a ton of work but the car is wicked. I run high speed autox and over one 3 year span, I won everything that I entered. There is no way that the car would be like it is if I had to rely on some shop to do everything.
My main advice is be realistic. Its way harder, more expensive and much much more time consuming than it seems up front.
That's a really clean lookin beast right there and the trophies definitely back it up
My bad, that was a typo on the oil -- it's 5W-30 I just put in it.
Yeah I'm really heavily leaning towards the boost -- I like the sound of the 3V and like the idea that everything computer-wise still just works w/o worrying about how to adapt everything for a coyote swap. That said, haven't ruled out anything yet. I'm still waiting on the engine shop to finish the quote for the rebuild and I'd be lucky to be driving the car again by springtime if I go that route. If I just get the cams/followers replaced, I'd probably be back on the road by Thanksgiving. 5.0 swap? I'd probably just start driving it again until all the parts/harnesses came in. Time's a factor, especially when I'm sitting in limbo waiting.
Those are all great questions BTW, I think anyone looking to do any kind of engine work should be askin these. Luckily I'm all set on this front. So as far as the engine builder goes, they're a place that my performance shop has been using for years, yep very reliable and does very solid work. They're known well enough in the area that there's usually a pretty big waitlist to get a rebuild done (they said about 3 months), but my shop's never had a problem with them as far as not finishing a job or doing bad work. The tune'll be done by the performance shop, who're the ones that did my dyno tune for the cams & intake, and the car has run fantastic up until this. They do a lot of supercharged builds, so I'm not worried on that front. And they've done free updates for me in the past on my dyno tune, anything from changing tire revs/mi, trying to get the cruise control to work (6 spd messes w/ it), or when the engine was running rich on cold starts. On the last of those, they had me leave the car with them so they could change parameters, start it cold, drive, repeat -- all w/o charging any extra because it was just part of getting the dyno tune right.
But yeah having the shop do all of this is gonna cost me. I'll do suspension work, brakes, changing a radiator, etc, but when it comes to engine internals I don't trust myself.
I don’t even use it in my mowers or pressure washers. 100% Synthetic in everything.
