Might be go big or go home time on my '06

[GlassTop09]

Been a busy couple months, but getting back into this again. It was a tough decision but I'm going to go for a centrifugal s/c. Jumping back to the topic about the CMCV's, I talked to the shop about it, and they're not really worried about the opening schedule since the boost doesn't come in until 3K when the valves are wide open anyway.

We also spent some time looking into flex fuel controllers (would detect the ethanol content and respond accordinlgy) -- but it turned out that all it would do is up the fuel rate on this generation of car. It's apparently only on the '15 and up where it could integrate with the ECU to adjust the timing too for more power.

Also putting together a set of gauges I'm going to put in the car. Want to keep the look consistent w/ the interior, so looking at Sport-Comp gauges.

Oil pressure:
https://www.autometer.com/2-1-16-oil-pressure-w-peak-warn-0-100-psi-stepper-motor-sport-comp.html

Coolant temperature -- my shop is advocating for this one, but I've got to ask them why. The gauge in the IUP cluster isn't an idiot gauge as far as I know. But if they have a good reason:
https://www.autometer.com/2-1-16-wa...-warn-100-260-f-stepper-motor-sport-comp.html

Boost/Vaccuum: (yes not necessary but fun is the name of the game here)
https://www.autometer.com/2-boost-vac-30-in-hg-15-psi-fse-sport-comp.html

Wideband Air/Fuel:
(analog version): https://www.autometer.com/2-1-16-analog-wideband-fse-sport-comp.html
(digital - probably the better one to have): https://www.autometer.com/2-1-16-wideband-a-f-w-sensor-fse-sport-comp.html


Also looking at places to mount them. First and foremost is the Saleen gauge pod. Been a big fan ever since the S-281 came out
View attachment 103105


Might also do a vent gauge next to the door

View attachment 103106

and if I end up doing all 4 gauges, I was thinking about putting it on the steering column. Seemed like it'd have to be a fabrication job, but I found this one online:

https://www.ozgaugepods.com/product-page/2005-09-ford-mustang-column-upper-trim-gauge-pod.

View attachment 103107

Thanks for posting the link to OZGaugePods................I'm gonna get the 05-09 S197 steering column upper gauge pod for my Stang soon so that I can finally install my Zietronics ZT-4 Dual Wideband Controller I've had in storage for the last 7 yrs.............I like how this pod integrates w\ the interior of my Stang (charcoal black thus should be a good match) ..........so I can finally get my wideband O2's permanently installed\set up w\ my HPTuners MPVI2+ interface for future datalogging\tuning purposes.

 

[cavero]

Parts have been ordered! Been doing a lot of back and forth with the shop on the supercharger, mostly on the gauge setup. Here's what we're going with:

Vortech V3 tuner kit
ACT sensor (Lightning) and pigtail
MAF flange
Mafia controller
650cc injectors
Oil pressure gauge
water temperature gauge
AFR gauge
Saleen dual guage pod (dash)
Autometer single pod on the corner of the A-pillar

The autometer pod is this one: https://stmtuned.com/products/2121-...OufWn3drXHONFDslKw_-kuqHbVJyTEHzHvdWo8-c-e0FD

Decided not to do the boost gauge, 4 gauges was kind of overdoing it, it was just for fun, and it saves a few hundred bucks. Will probably do AFR over by the corner of the pillar and the dash, then in the saleen pod prob the oil pressure on the left and water temp on the right. The shop had a good point about the pillar pods, they tend to put the gauges further towards the back of the car, so you have to look away from the road to see them. Just a single gauge down by the corner of pillar w/ the dash will keep it in my field of view when I'm keeping my eyese on the road.

 

[GlassTop09]

Thanks for posting the link to OZGaugePods................I'm gonna get the 05-09 S197 steering column upper gauge pod for my Stang soon so that I can finally install my Zietronics ZT-4 Dual Wideband Controller I've had in storage for the last 7 yrs.............I like how this pod integrates w\ the interior of my Stang (charcoal black thus should be a good match) ..........so I can finally get my wideband O2's permanently installed\set up w\ my HPTuners MPVI2+ interface for future datalogging\tuning purposes.

Got this delivered 3-4 days ago....................

Good looking piece made from an authentic OEM Ford 05-09 S197 GT\V6 Steering Column upper cover. These can easily be made into a 2-gauge pod if desired & can save money on these if you arrange to send in your car's existing upper steering column cover to OZGaugePods up front when ordering (large % of the $139.00 cost is ordering the OEM Ford part to then build the gauge pod & graft it onto this part.........also speeds up the process............).

I wanted to retain my existing cover so that I have the option of returning all back to stock if desired.

Now on to step #2.............................

 

[cavero]

NICE I didn't expect anyone to order it, but glad you did!

How's the paint, does it match factory pretty well? Is the gauge housing plastic? (Maybe 3d printed)

 

[GlassTop09]

NICE I didn't expect anyone to order it, but glad you did!

How's the paint, does it match factory pretty well? Is the gauge housing plastic? (Maybe 3d printed)

The paint work is pretty good w\ no runs at all.......looks to be some type of product specifically suited for ABS plastics & was oven-cured because the adherence is very good, color is a universal charcoal black, but I haven't placed it against my existing interior pieces yet to see how close it matches (not expecting a perfect match as this part was sanded smooth to achieve good paint adhesion vs the interior pieces are a slightly textured surface & have over 16+ yrs of some UV exposure.......but from what I have noted to date, it appears to be a close match.......I opened the box to do an inspection & took these pictures then repackaged it for storage until I get the 2 O2 sensor bungs installed in my mid pipe's pre-cat section just behind the ball flanges) so I'll follow up on this at some future point (now I'm kicking myself for not getting these 2 O2 sensor bungs put in when I had the MF #5461336 cats put in back in 2021)............

The actual gauge pod is a 3D printed ABS plastic piece that was attached to the OEM ABS plastic molded part using what I deem as some type of ABS molded adhesive as it is very securely attached & very well blended into both pieces thus it looks like it is a 1-piece molded part from the outside.......

According to OZGaugePods, the gauge pod ID is sized to accept any std sized 2 1\16" or 52mm bezeled gauges (press fit), depending on the depth of the gauge housing.

I've always liked how this type of gauge pod blends into the vehicle's interior design scheme ever since I saw the one's made for the SN95's\New Edges thus the appeal is very strong..........the A-pillar designs just don't appeal to my tastes & while I liked the AutoMeter 05-09 S197 center dash 3-gauge pod (bought this initially to use when I was seriously thinking to go FI), over time it lost appeal as well.

So, when you posted the picture & the link & I saw it, I had to get it because I knew I already had the Zeitronics ZT-4 Dual WB O2 controller in storage (part of package I was initially putting together to go FI back then after I bought the car.......FWIW was also gonna go w\ centri SC as well just as you have chosen.......) & these are natively compatible w\ HPTuners software thus are a plug & play setup (will show up in VCM Scanner as 2 Zeitronics ZT-2 WB's....1 for B1, 1 for B2) & this is the only extra gauge I really need to have in the car to ensure a fully completed\accurate tune calibration (to mostly check\tune OL Power Enrichment due to no O2 sensor feedback being used for fuel correction while in this mode & to cross check the NB O2 sensor's EQ Ratio Lambda 1.0 accuracy while in CL) thus this gauge pod is perfect for me.

 

[cavero]

CAR IS DROPPED OFF AT THE SHOP!!

Checked in with them last week and all the stuff was in, except for the saleen gauge pod which is coming from ChYna. Did see some on ebay shipping form the US, so if it's not coming via Air Mail, we've got backup options.

Got a call from them yesterday saying "Hey schedule opened up early, can you drop the car off tomorrow?". They didn't say exactly but I'm guessing I'll have the car back in a week or two if everything goes well.

Still wondering if the stock intake is the better way to go over the FRPP one. If they keep having issues with the tune (not coasting, 3K on cold start), I may have them put the FRPP intake back in.

 

[StockishS197]

CAR IS DROPPED OFF AT THE SHOP!!

Checked in with them last week and all the stuff was in, except for the saleen gauge pod which is coming from ChYna. Did see some on ebay shipping form the US, so if it's not coming via Air Mail, we've got backup options.

Got a call from them yesterday saying "Hey schedule opened up early, can you drop the car off tomorrow?". They didn't say exactly but I'm guessing I'll have the car back in a week or two if everything goes well.

Still wondering if the stock intake is the better way to go over the FRPP one. If they keep having issues with the tune (not coasting, 3K on cold start), I may have them put the FRPP intake back in.

Having the CMCVs still in place with boost would be reason enough to put the FRPP mani back on (or get CMDPs on the stock mani), but that’s just me.

 

[jbpellegrino]

I've been reading trough this thread and am delighted to see lots of helpful information for my own engine rebuild. After looking at your shortblock build pics, I thought I saw something off... I really hope that this is something silly that I'm overlooking.

Here is your cleanly rebuilt motor, to avoid scrolling back 60 posts:



Here is my 200k mile rebuilt shortblock from a 2009 Mustang GT that was just finished these past few days:



I am using Diamond 4.6 3V -9.5cc Dish Competition Series Forged pistons that feature an exhaust valve relieve, similar to yours...

My relief is at the bottom, yours appears to be at the top. Am I seeing this wrong? I checked my old heads and the exhaust valve is at the bottom side of the head, where the manifold mounts to. Sounds about right.

 

[Midlife Crises]

I've been reading trough this thread and am delighted to see lots of helpful information for my own engine rebuild. After looking at your shortblock build pics, I thought I saw something off... I really hope that this is something silly that I'm overlooking.

Here is your cleanly rebuilt motor, to avoid scrolling back 60 posts:

View attachment 107310

Here is my 200k mile rebuilt shortblock from a 2009 Mustang GT that was just finished these past few days:

View attachment 107311

I am using Diamond 4.6 3V -9.5cc Dish Competition Series Forged pistons that feature an exhaust valve relieve, similar to yours...

My relief is at the bottom, yours appears to be at the top. Am I seeing this wrong? I checked my old heads and the exhaust valve is at the bottom side of the head, where the manifold mounts to. Sounds about right.

If we’re talking about a 3 valve, shouldn’t the valve reliefs look something like this?

 

[JC SSP]

Every piston has a stamped arrow which is supposed to faces the front of the engine.

 

[cavero]

Dude, made me panic a little bit seeing this! I had a well regarded engine shop do the work, so I'm pretty confident in their work, but had me second guessing.

I don't know the exact model number on the pistons, but I know they're Manley forged 14cc, which according to this picture has symetrical reliefs for the valve

https://www.manleyperformance.com/product/pistons/piston-sets/man_594570c-8/?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22254587206&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0erBBhDTARIsAKO8iqTwn7nm3E6iAhHZ79IElhX9uySUjq6CML5kBWIOkgKjhR1nni6doBgaApcvEALw_wcB

I went and dug out the box of parts this morning, this is the stock piston (again symetrical valve cutouts)




Now in the assembly picture from 60 posts ago, the quality is pretty bad, but I think I can make out the valve relief on the bottom, but it's pretty hard to tell.

 

[cavero]

Got the car back two weekends ago, posted a quick pic in the 'what did you do to your mustang today' thread, but haven't done a real update here.

The bad (minor stuff):
- After two different tuners looked at the PCM, they finally figured out the rev'ing up to 3k on cold start! But they can't seem to figure out why it won't coast down in gear. At this point they're ready to blame the throttle body because they can see the throttle position sensors aren't changing. But here's two things I've noticed that I think refute that
1) you can press the throttle all you want in neutral and it revs normal. I can see on torque where the commanded position and actual position follow eachother just fine.
2) if you use the '-' button while in cruise control, it seems to decelerate just fine to me.
- I'm not getting any readings on the rear O2 sensors. They say they're turned on in the tune, but I'm getting zero readings on voltage and temp using a data logger (Torque app). Luckily I've got another year before my emissions is due.

The good
- SHE RUNS STRONG! So much better throttle response and torque even down low. I can't wait to get her on a dyno because it really feels like a whole different car even as low as 2K RPM. I wonder how much I can chalk up to running blower cams (comp cams 127450) on an N/A car for the last year. She runs smoother too. Had been getting misfire counts in Torque in that setup (never enough to trip a code), but now there's absolutely 0 in the ~250 mi I've driven w/ the Vortech.

- The whine and the BOV flutter are awesome, I don't think I'll ever get tired of that. Not super loud either, but it's definitely there. There's no way anyone is going to pull up next to me and not know there's a blower. I'm surprised though, the Vortech V3 is supposed to have the helical gears, which makes me wonder how much louder a V2 with straight cut gears is.

The ...other?
- Well I haven't had a ton of opportunities to really open her up but the way the power hits isn't really what I expected. I knew a centri wasn't going to throw you back into your seat but they way everyone talks about how the boost just builds and builds exponentially -- I thought I'd feel that more. Don't get me wrong, that speedometer needle climbs FAST now, but I'm not getting a huge sensation of speed. But it's also hard to get over 4500 RPM in 3rd gear or higher on public roads around here.

 

[cavero]

Couple other points I forgot:
- Gas milage hasn't really changed at all
- I honestly don't feel the extra weight up front. If I had to guess there's an extra 150-200 lbs w/ the air-water intercooler, pump, piping, etc. But on the back roads I honestly don't feel a difference.


Pics:
A pretty full engine bay now


The plastic coolant jug is gone, now there's a metal tank. You can see a smaller resivoir behind the strut tower brace, that's the coolant for the intercooler. Intercooler just runs your typical 50/50 antifreze mix (I'd never actually read what you used in an air-water setup).




Up under the bumper (under the pass. headlight) is the water pump for the intercooler. It's hooked up via relay to the ignition circuit if I remember right, so it's always running as long as the key is in the 'ON' position.



Relays and fuses (both for the GT500 fuel pump and the water pump)

 

[cavero]

Here's the coolant tube relocation for an '05-'06. There's a video on youtube (Four Eyes) where he does a build with an '07 which has the different crossover that you can see here:

The sensor/wire is for the coolant temp sensor (not installed yet)


You can see the original outlet has a freeze plug installed


here's the IAT sensor




Check valve coming from the catch can. The shop used a brake booster check valve here, said they're cheap to replace and generally seal better than a lot of the fancier all-metals ones. He couldn't tell me what exact car it fits.

 

[cavero]

And me doing a mockup of the oil pressure gauge and water temp in the Saleen cluster. Measure once, cut thrice, amiright?

The shop was originally going to put these in but ran out of time, and they're looking forward to it as much as I am...so I'll be drilling the holes myself and let them hook up the wiring the rest of the way. Should save me some $$$ lin labor at least and I can say I actually did something in this whole install.




AFR gauge mounted on the A pillar