06 Mustang GT [Noise under valve cover]

[Moccubus]

Hey all! new here, i have a 2006 Mustang GT and recently I've noticed a strange noise under the driver side valve cover, the car runs completely fine and drives great. Haven't got any codes but if i drive it for a bit like to work i will hear a "clicking" noise under the valve cover after its been parked, the only recent change was i didn't do my own oil change [moved to a apt in missouri] went from 5w-30 to 5w-20, car has hot rod cams, full exhaust minus headers [thats next] , tuned by lito , ford racing intake [mistake]. I did the cams roughly 7-8 months ago and never heard this noise before, 3-4 months ago i had a new trans put in it but i highly doubt that is relatable, i was going to pull the valve cover but i had a long week-end so just curious if anybody has any clues as to what it could be [figured rocker arm?] but idk the car runs fantastic so i feel like it couldn't be a rocker arm but I am new to these cars just trying to better understand what it might be, recently had to fix the dreaded coolant under intake leak i wasn't aware of till i started losing coolant, don't see any smoke out of exhaust or any other weird noises so i am clueless, next weekend ill be pulling the valve cover off just want to be prepared for what i might end up having to replace.

Thank you guys.

I'll be taking a video imma drive it to the store real quick since its not even .3 of a mile away hoping it is enough to warm it up to replicate the noise.

 

[whitmanink]

are you sure your not hearing the exhaust ticking when it cools down?

 

[Moccubus]

That's what I thought too since the OEM headers are on still , I parked it for today don't wanna risk damaging it, after work imma try and work myself up to pull the cover real quick. It just doesn't seem that simple but I could be wrong. I hear the noise when the car is running too but it's intermittent not always so that also makes it hard to believe it's valvetrain but I've never had a issue like this before.

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

The driver's side valve cover is actually the easier of the two to remove so you shouldn't have any problem.
The likely culprit IS a bad cam follower though it's possible it hasn't completely seized yet and is sticking intermittently. Now's the time to investigate before it wears a cam lobe and you end up needing a new cam in addition to the updated cam followers/lash adjusters.
I'm puzzled as to why you went from 5W30 to 5W20 oil when you should be doing the reverse, especially if the engine's done over 80k miles. I'd also recommend full synthetic rather than Motorcraft semi.

 

[Moccubus]

The driver's side valve cover is actually the easier of the two to remove so you shouldn't have any problem.
The likely culprit IS a bad cam follower though it's possible it hasn't completely seized yet and is sticking intermittently. Now's the time to investigate before it wears a cam lobe and you end up needing a new cam in addition to the updated cam followers/lash adjusters.
I'm puzzled as to why you went from 5W30 to 5W20 oil when you should be doing the reverse, especially if the engine's done over 80k miles. I'd also recommend full synthetic rather than Motorcraft semi.

I strictly run full synthetic, that's what I was thinking it could be. Since I had moved a shop did my oil change since I no longer have a garage to work on my car in and they didn't put the oil I requested in it since it was not "OEM spec" even tho I think 20 weight is too thin for the motor.

Luckily my job I had acquired recently I can do some work on my car there in the parking lot so I'll be able to do my oil change and revert to the heavier oil. Car is parked till I pull the valve cover thanks for the help I'll keep you all updated.

 

[Samos3]

When you say 'running' do you mean driving? Or are you hearing the noise with the motor both running and not running?

I'm also in STL, by the way.

 

[Moccubus]

When you say 'running' do you mean driving? Or are you hearing the noise with the motor both running and not running?

I'm also in STL, by the way.

Don't hear the noise at all till the car warms up, I've started the car and let it run and listen and hear nothing out of the ordinary. Both sides sounded the same and then after it warms up I can hear a distinct noise but the motor doesn't change how it runs at all. It probably is a sticking follower ide Imagine. Sometimes do not hear the noise at all but I definitely need to investigate, I'll probably just update everything if I have to replace anything.

Adding to this I haven't got any fuel related codes or any codes, idles good. Don't hear any abnormal knocking noises.

 

[Samos3]

Don't hear the noise at all till the car warms up, I've started the car and let it run and listen and hear nothing out of the ordinary. Both sides sounded the same and then after it warms up I can hear a distinct noise but the motor doesn't change how it runs at all. It probably is a sticking follower ide Imagine. Sometimes do not hear the noise at all but I definitely need to investigate, I'll probably just update everything if I have to replace anything.

Adding to this I haven't got any fuel related codes or any codes, idles good. Don't hear any abnormal knocking noises.

Cold oil is thicker and produces more pressure, so it seems like the noise comes after the oil warms up and pressure drops a bit.

 

[Moccubus]

Don't hear noise when driving the car beyond idle or sitting still when warmed up, could it still be cam followers ? Idk it confuses me I feel like I would hear it no matter what.

 

[Samos3]

Rpm can change things. Either thru frequency (the taps get closer together as rpm increases until they start to blend together) or oil pressure/volume goes up and compensates for whatever slack might be causing the noise.

 

[bambam 06]

I strictly run full synthetic, that's what I was thinking it could be. Since I had moved a shop did my oil change since I no longer have a garage to work on my car in and they didn't put the oil I requested in it since it was not "OEM spec" even tho I think 20 weight is too thin for the motor.

Luckily my job I had acquired recently I can do some work on my car there in the parking lot so I'll be able to do my oil change and revert to the heavier oil. Car is parked till I pull the valve cover thanks for the help I'll keep you all updated.

a shop did my oil change since I no longer have a garage to work on my car in and they didn't put the oil I requested in it since it was not "OEM spec". That shop would have been changing the oil to what the "Customer" requested and pay for!! SMH

 

[Kev555]

As Dino said, get that cover off pronto and check it out before unneeded damage can be caused to the cam if it is a roller. Agree also the oil should be 5/30 as well at that mileage and above.

 

[Moccubus]

a shop did my oil change since I no longer have a garage to work on my car in and they didn't put the oil I requested in it since it was not "OEM spec". That shop would have been changing the oil to what the "Customer" requested and pay for!! SMH

It has been stressful because every shop I went to didn't wanna touch my car because it was a "hot rod" I don't understand in pa I never had these issues especially asking for a simple oil change. Luckily I can do my own again which case when I take the cover off if I have to replace anything I'll change my oil again even though it was done 1k miles ago, don't really mind.

 

[Moccubus]

Rpm can change things. Either thru frequency (the taps get closer together as rpm increases until they start to blend together) or oil pressure/volume goes up and compensates for whatever slack might be causing the noise.

True, I've been working on cars for a while but usually was ohv or simply normal repairs. I've messed around with some dohc motors and this being my first sohc. I got the haynes manual for it and I been dabbling in it trying to learn as much about it as I can.

 

[MrBhp]

FYI, the 3V is not a quiet engine.

 

[Samos3]

There is a Mustang shop in High Ridge.
Straight down 141 from Maryland Heights and turn right at 30 (Gravois), then a few miles out. I'll find the name. No personal experience with them, but they exist.

 

[Samos3]

True, I've been working on cars for a while but usually was ohv or simply normal repairs. I've messed around with some dohc motors and this being my first sohc. I got the haynes manual for it and I been dabbling in it trying to learn as much about it as I can.

I highly suggest getting the factory service manual. I have a copy on dvd/chrome that I got on Ebay. It is WAAYYYY better than Haynes or anything else.
There are the ForTechMakuloco videos on YouTube, if you haven't seen them. Probably the best 3v stuff on there.
So far, the 3V has shown itself to be simple to work on, but tedious and particular, no fudging.

 

[Moccubus]

I highly suggest getting the factory service manual. I have a copy on dvd/chrome that I got on Ebay. It is WAAYYYY better than Haynes or anything else.
There are the ForTechMakuloco videos on YouTube, if you haven't seen them. Probably the best 3v stuff on there.
So far, the 3V has shown itself to be simple to work on, but tedious and particular, no fudging.

I'll have to check for that manual thank you and also for the shop recommendation I've been trying to find a shop to work on it but all the stuff I've looked up no luck tried so many locations. I've done quite a bit of stuff to her so far but I try to take caution with engines I don't particularly fully understand especially not having my own garage anymore.

 

[Samos3]

This is the shop:
Mustang Muscle Performance and Dyno Tuning https://share.google/UfVgkuqq0bKqhZ0X3

I have no personal experience with them.
There was a guy down in Bonne Terre, Bob Munk, but I think he has closed up and moved on.

 

[Moccubus]

This is the shop:
Mustang Muscle Performance and Dyno Tuning https://share.google/UfVgkuqq0bKqhZ0X3

I have no personal experience with them.
There was a guy down in Bonne Terre, Bob Munk, but I think he has closed up and moved on.

Seems decent any recommendations for cam followers etc I was just going to get the Ford racing kit if I have to replace one and do them all. Would it be worth replacing the lashers as well ?