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Damn, you should have used the kit from FRPP that uses the upper/lower foglight openings. Looks like this turned out ok though!

Your hard work is definitely paying off. I enjoy reading your continued updates.

+1; I can appreciate the "Customer Orientation" part of it, but they shouldn't have had to do anything in this case. lol

Dude is probably a fucking hero over at Stancenation

The body shop guys were worried about that too, before seeing it. I guess they really didn't have to do much to prep it for paint, which seems to be the general experience of everyone with the FG version of the hood. Typically when people say "fiberglass hood" it conjures up images of some...

FWIW my Fiberglass version has had absolutely no issues after about 3 years on the car. I did drive around with it bare (unpainted) on the car for about 2 weeks before it got painted, when the car was still on the street. No issues with weather etc. on the durability of the hood. I do have...

You've gotta get that girl on 315s!!

Looks great :)

Jack: That is very interesting and also helps explain why many of the S197 competition cars that run full rear coil-overs have tiny sway bars (or none at all).

I don't know how they weigh the car for classing, but make sure to be in the car or use driver ballast when setting corner weights.

That would be great but will never happen due to expense. Opening one's wallet for dampers can be a very uncertain time when presented with a host of quality options. That being said, I'm very happy with my decision to go MCS.

Wow that is some fucked up shit right there. +1 on the wrench failure mode.

Good lord.

Drilled rotors are bullshit. You're not a BAUCE until you get SS drilled brake lines

The DTC70s also seem to crumble apart past their MOT range, not to mention they eat rotors. Switch to a PFC01 compound and get range 1600-2000*F that's much easier on rotors...

We nuked the phenolic pistons on our Crown Vic LeMons car in similar fashion.

Whiskey, thanks for the pics. That is close indeed. I think the spacer will get you the clearance you need. I'd suggest switching to the FRPP hubs w/ ARP studs, however--way more thread engagement plus get some fresh hubs on the car from what I assume is many autocrossing seasons. I replace...

Whiskey--can you share some photographs of the clearance, etc? I've got the 18x10.5s and I'm contemplating going to the 15" Brembo PRO kit next year, this GT500 kit comparison would be helpful in understanding the clearance available--I'll bet it's tight.

TV looks nice. Front stoop would look great with some continuous wood planters surrounding it once the concrete or whatever is poured. You guys are kicking ass on this place.

I always liked that one when I had my 2006.

40 is fine; the 302R AIM file doesn't even alarm until under 30psi.

I never said they'd be cheap! :o Even the Boss 12-quart pan is 1200$ or so. I went with the Steeda steel 10-quart ($350) and just fill 12 quarts anyways (works fine w/ my external oil cooler & lines).

Contact Dean @ Rehagen--I know they have a road-race oil pan for a 4.6L engine available now, but only one.

I'm not saying that it won't help, but I don't think it will be the "silver bullet" he's looking for in this case. Expectations Management :)

The TR hood will extract some heat but it is more for front end lift reduction as opposed to cooling improvement--so that might not solve your issue. If you box in your radiator and get a large oil cooler it will help quite a bit. Do you still have an AC condenser mounted in front of the...