Tell up what, I'll throw em back on my car and let's hit VIR and see who's hanging in the corners. The past week I've been back on stock shocks and springs. I'm on a boat mutha fucka take a look at me. True story. But in all serious they vastly improve handling.
'11-'13 D2 Coilovers $850 shipped
- Thread starter WILECYOT
- Start date
UltraKla$$ic
PERENNIAL WAXXER
What's the new "I wanna sell these today" price? LOL
Tell me a bit about how easy/hard these are to adjust ON THE CAR. You can PM me to keep from polluting your thread but others may wanna know as well. I googled it, but was somewhat confused on the destructions. LOL
Tell me a bit about how easy/hard these are to adjust ON THE CAR. You can PM me to keep from polluting your thread but others may wanna know as well. I googled it, but was somewhat confused on the destructions. LOL
Well the installation is pretty straightforward. The rear you have to lift the car and support it with jack stands or have it on a lift, whatever you wanna do. I used a jack under the pumpkin to support the axle as I unbolted the shocks. I also unbolted the sway bar as well, this allowed the axle to be lowered, and the springs and shocks removed. I put everything kind of in the middle for settings. The shock adjusts separate from the springs for ride height. You want the shock to have 1/3 of its piston arm down in the shock itself and 2/3 above. This allows for droop travel. You’ll be adjusting all of this later to dial it in where you want it so we continue to the front once all of that is bolted in and set. The front is easy, raise the car and unbolt the top 4 bolts on the strut tower and the two on the knuckle. Remove the front strut and spring assembly and detach the brake lines and sway bar end links. Now this was fun, the sway bar end links I mean. You have to adjust the ride height FIRST before reattaching the sway bar end links as you’ll have to adjust the sway bar end link mount points. I personally just measured the distance on the factory struts from the top hole for the knuckle bolts to the sway bar link mounting hole and copied it to the coilover once I had it all dialed in. With jack stands and a buddy I had it all done in 4 hours and a LOT of that time was me being anal and just taking my time to figure it out. Now I will say this, the camber adjustment looks to be a BITCH. I didn’t fuck with it. I left the settings the way they were, right in the center, for both sides and my eyeball alignment looked pretty good. I didn’t have much toe either with just throwing them on there but I never put it on a alignment rack.
All in all install is pretty easy for your backyard mechanic. Make sure to remove those front sway bar end links COMPLETELY though. I had one flip down on me while I was lowering the car and it bent. They’re cast aluminum. They bent fine but when I tried to massage it back into a straight position it snapped like a twig. $20 factory replacement didn’t hurt me too bad but it was a lesson learned. Dialing in the suspension isn’t too bad but you have to take the wheels off and put em back on. Best thing to do is to get it close, drive it around for 10 minutes on a road with a few bumps and dips, nothing crazy, let it settle the suspension then take measurements with a tape measure of your ground to fender distances and adjust the car according to those measurements. If the left is lets say 29” and the right 28.5” then adjust the left down ½” of threads on the coilover. Go drive it again and check again. Lengthy process but WELL worth it.
I’ve been back on the stock suspension going on 2 weeks now. God I miss these coilovers and if they don’t sell soon I will be throwing them back on. The car feels too boat like without them. Weight transfer sucks ass on stock suspension. I will say the car hooks up better now in a straighline launch but the twisties are damn near scary at high speeds without my coilovers. I had a lot more confidence in my car in turns with the coilovers.
Also, another note, if you don’t already have an upper control arm for a lowered car I suggest you get one. Not NECESSARY but you’ll thank me later. Also LCA relocation brackets aren’t a bad idea either. This is typical lowering a solid axle material. A panhard bar is a nice investment as well, I have a stallion suspension swaybar with Aurora Heim joints in it. Best investment mod wise I’ve made to my car thus far. Really improved the way my rear end handled and felt. No more rear end kick if I hit a bump in a turn.
If this reads funky let me know but I was in a hurry at work typing this out.
Whoever buys these I'll give you my cell phone number and you can call me if you get stuck during the install and I'll walk you through it.
All in all install is pretty easy for your backyard mechanic. Make sure to remove those front sway bar end links COMPLETELY though. I had one flip down on me while I was lowering the car and it bent. They’re cast aluminum. They bent fine but when I tried to massage it back into a straight position it snapped like a twig. $20 factory replacement didn’t hurt me too bad but it was a lesson learned. Dialing in the suspension isn’t too bad but you have to take the wheels off and put em back on. Best thing to do is to get it close, drive it around for 10 minutes on a road with a few bumps and dips, nothing crazy, let it settle the suspension then take measurements with a tape measure of your ground to fender distances and adjust the car according to those measurements. If the left is lets say 29” and the right 28.5” then adjust the left down ½” of threads on the coilover. Go drive it again and check again. Lengthy process but WELL worth it.
I’ve been back on the stock suspension going on 2 weeks now. God I miss these coilovers and if they don’t sell soon I will be throwing them back on. The car feels too boat like without them. Weight transfer sucks ass on stock suspension. I will say the car hooks up better now in a straighline launch but the twisties are damn near scary at high speeds without my coilovers. I had a lot more confidence in my car in turns with the coilovers.
Also, another note, if you don’t already have an upper control arm for a lowered car I suggest you get one. Not NECESSARY but you’ll thank me later. Also LCA relocation brackets aren’t a bad idea either. This is typical lowering a solid axle material. A panhard bar is a nice investment as well, I have a stallion suspension swaybar with Aurora Heim joints in it. Best investment mod wise I’ve made to my car thus far. Really improved the way my rear end handled and felt. No more rear end kick if I hit a bump in a turn.
If this reads funky let me know but I was in a hurry at work typing this out.
Whoever buys these I'll give you my cell phone number and you can call me if you get stuck during the install and I'll walk you through it.
And one other thing to note on these coilovers is that not only is ride height adjustment important but when you adjust the dampers, 36 way adjustability per damper 
, you have to understand how the system acts. A lot of people think man my car is riding like shit and bouncing around and just beating me up going down the road, I'll soften up the dampers. Doesn't work like that. Personally I had to set them on the stiffer end of things to prevent having an under damped system. On the highway I would hit a bulb when they were set too soft and would experience harmonics for a lil ways before it would finally settle out. I softened them up, it got worse and i remembered back to my vibrations class in college, tightened these puppies up and bam rode PERFECT in my opinion. Much stiffer than stock but the car doesn't sway all over the road and you have zero brake dive.
, you have to understand how the system acts. A lot of people think man my car is riding like shit and bouncing around and just beating me up going down the road, I'll soften up the dampers. Doesn't work like that. Personally I had to set them on the stiffer end of things to prevent having an under damped system. On the highway I would hit a bulb when they were set too soft and would experience harmonics for a lil ways before it would finally settle out. I softened them up, it got worse and i remembered back to my vibrations class in college, tightened these puppies up and bam rode PERFECT in my opinion. Much stiffer than stock but the car doesn't sway all over the road and you have zero brake dive.ThePope
forum member
Bump!!
Car looks great!!
Car looks great!!
Thanks man, I like to think so.
UltraKla$$ic
PERENNIAL WAXXER
Thank you for the explanation. I read that on Google, but it makes more sense the way you worded it!
shark tales
Wiggle Wiggle Memeber
no one needs coilovers, the mustang looks uber low on springs. all else is overkill and unnecessary. lol in all seriousness. just throw those bitches back on and dump it
Grabber5.sl0w
forum member
I would also love to take these off your hands if I hadn't broke my bank by just paying taxes on the new car. If you still have these mid June, I will take them no doubt.
one eyed willy
Pizzle fo shizzle
Pm me with what you would be willing to sell them for,shipped to Florida. Pay pal ready if we can work a good deal.
one eyed willy
Pizzle fo shizzle
all i can find info online is the "sports". Are there 2 different types? if so, how do the "streets" compare to the "sports".
D2 doesn't make any "sports".
Take a look at this page. It'll tell you all you need to know. Also, retail on these suckers are $1500.
http://www.d2racing.com/content/products/RS_coilovers
one eyed willy
Pizzle fo shizzle
Guess i was confused, you say you have "streets" but i dont see anywhere to buy the "streets" version, so i was trying to compare them to the "other" versions.....and since it says The D2 Racing "Sports"......i thought there was a "sport version"....so there is only one version? few places i have looked has them for $975 and $967.
.... What are you getting at? I've had em on my car for less than 3000 miles. I have them priced at 850 SHIPPED. Either you want them or you don't. I showed you what model I have. I don't know what you're asking of me here.
one eyed willy
Pizzle fo shizzle
i was just trying to clarify what was for sale, you didnt list a model number....just "streets" which i dont see ANYWHERE on the interwebz....so i wanted to make sure before i was to buy something used, how much it cost new to decide if it was a good deal.....didnt think i was out of line or asking anything strange.no big deal buddy....
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