2 DTC P0340 and P0344

[cheftjpeck]

P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit
P0344 Camshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit Intermittent
Ok, So I got both these codes..last year I got the p0340 in the summer when it was hot and most felt it was the alternator. I did not replace the alt, then one day came out and my battery was dead...so I replaced the battery and it was fine up until a couple weeks ago the p0340 code came out on a really hot day...cleared the code...and no issues until last night...then p0340....cleared it and started car today and drove it to work..it has no issues running at all..but CEL came on again..read DTC and got 2 codes this time p0340 and p0344...so do I just replace the alternator already? how hard is it to replace..I have the saleen Supercharger on it..any help is greatly appreciated...(by the way..warranty is expired so going to dealership really not an option and they probably would not cover anyway due to saleen s/c moves alternator location and they would try to blame that) also if I do replace alternator,,,,where to get...thx

 

[Rangersfan]

It's your 'nator.

 

[scramblr]

I read somewhere that regardless of the warranty, since there's a TSB they'd have to replace it. Wondering the validity of that.

But....since the S/C is in there, they'll probably just laugh, so you may as well go with an aftermarket unit.

 

[dustindu4]

Get a warranty replacement if you can. If you go aftermarket I recommend getting the PA Performance 200A unit. I got mine at D'Agostino Racing. Make sure you get the upgraded alternator cable.

You can keep clearing the codes but eventually your alternator will die

 

[cheftjpeck]

so in your guesstimations its the alternator...however...why the time lapse between codes...last summer august , replaced battery, now just recently5-6 months later....wouldnt alternator if bad...would ahve remained bad over the past 6 or so months and throwing the codes? just curious...why the 200amp alternator? I have no aftermarket stereo etc or amps...isnt that overkill...what benefit from a 200amp compared to the PA 135 amp?

 

[ZmanM3]

so in your guesstimations its the alternator...however...why the time lapse between codes...last summer august , replaced battery, now just recently5-6 months later....wouldnt alternator if bad...would ahve remained bad over the past 6 or so months and throwing the codes? just curious...why the 200amp alternator? I have no aftermarket stereo etc or amps...isnt that overkill...what benefit from a 200amp compared to the PA 135 amp?

More power!

 

[Rangersfan]

I read somewhere that regardless of the warranty, since there's a TSB they'd have to replace it. Wondering the validity of that.

But....since the S/C is in there, they'll probably just laugh, so you may as well go with an aftermarket unit.

A TSB is just that, a service bulletin. They won't fix it for free unless you are under warranty, they'll just know what they're doing with the issue you have. That is, unless you have a cool service manager at the dealership. Blower or not, they'd cover it under warranty.

 

[scramblr]

Thanks Steve. What about the RCM update for the passenger side airbag? Is that different since it's a recall?

 

[88_Stanga]

A TSB is just that, a service bulletin. They won't fix it for free unless you are under warranty, they'll just know what they're doing with the issue you have. That is, unless you have a cool service manager at the dealership. Blower or not, they'd cover it under warranty.

they could still pull the "well you had to relocate it, and because the factory harness and bracket were moved, that could have caused the problem"

i know of 2 people that had underdrive pullies and they had the same codes and went in for the tsb and ford said f you, you have pullies, see you later.

 

[scramblr]

Eh screw it...take it to the dealership, worse they can do is say no. Ask around and see if there's a mod friendly dealership around.

 

[cheftjpeck]

PLEASE HELP STILL ANYONE,,,,,, ok...so if I buy the alternator ( Ford recommends replacing it with motorcraft GL920 135 amp ($395 at rockauto.com).
which is freaking insane price....but anyhow..no core exchange...I could use the stock cables ...correct? and also should I just spend the 44$ and replace both camshaft position sensors? I may actually do that first....how hard is it to replace them...it looks pretty straight forward...do I just cut and splice in the new ones? or do they come complete to go all the way back to the PCM/?? anyone have a clue on the install or the how etc....I keep clearing the light and it comes back on pretty quickly now...the thing about it is..no car issues at all though...no rough idling nothing...just the CEL....and the codes....no slow crank or any issue with battery yet and when I run down the road no issues...but I am assuming I am on borrowed time and eventually the alternator (if it is that...will go and then my recently new battery will follow....) any advice is still welcomed guys...thx...

 

[cekim]

The cam position sensors are trivial to change - they come as a little plastic thing that screws into the front timing cover right below both valve covers. There is a connector right there...

But, it's rather unlikely that they are the problem... they are a very simple "hall-effect" sensor. They don't often go bad - really simple device...

If I/we are wrong, they are absolutely trivial to change later - just remove the bolt/screw holding them in - unplug the connector, bolt the new on in and plug it back in... (the connector is right there at the sensor)...

I assume at this point, you have put a voltmeter on the battery to confirm it is not charging well?

If you stick close to the stock amperage - then you can keep your wires (though check for cable rub while you have things apart...

PLEASE HELP STILL ANYONE,,,,,, ok...so if I buy the alternator ( Ford recommends replacing it with motorcraft GL920 135 amp ($395 at rockauto.com).
which is freaking insane price....but anyhow..no core exchange...I could use the stock cables ...correct? and also should I just spend the 44$ and replace both camshaft position sensors? I may actually do that first....how hard is it to replace them...it looks pretty straight forward...do I just cut and splice in the new ones? or do they come complete to go all the way back to the PCM/?? anyone have a clue on the install or the how etc....I keep clearing the light and it comes back on pretty quickly now...the thing about it is..no car issues at all though...no rough idling nothing...just the CEL....and the codes....no slow crank or any issue with battery yet and when I run down the road no issues...but I am assuming I am on borrowed time and eventually the alternator (if it is that...will go and then my recently new battery will follow....) any advice is still welcomed guys...thx...

 

[cheftjpeck]

The cam position sensors are trivial to change - they come as a little plastic thing that screws into the front timing cover right below both valve covers. There is a connector right there...

But, it's rather unlikely that they are the problem... they are a very simple "hall-effect" sensor. They don't often go bad - really simple device...

If I/we are wrong, they are absolutely trivial to change later - just remove the bolt/screw holding them in - unplug the connector, bolt the new on in and plug it back in... (the connector is right there at the sensor)...

I assume at this point, you have put a voltmeter on the battery to confirm it is not charging well?

If you stick close to the stock amperage - then you can keep your wires (though check for cable rub while you have things apart...

I actually have not checked....but will...(volts etc) however....I hear that the alternator issue is a diode....all I know is last year same issue...then battery was dead one morning.....replaced battery....issue went away...until recently...I have also read it could be caused by electric interferrence..causing the codes....I would be nervous to go through my wiring harness as some have suggested...but may have to....I have been told the only way to check if it is the alternator causing this is with an oscilator wave....dont have one of those...I do not feel it is anything major as the symptoms of rough idling etc for the 0340 code...dont even exist on my car....just the CEL coming on and throwing the code....so I am here contemplating.....replace alternator....process of elimination....if it is interference....where and what...thx for any advice....

 

[don_w]

If it's not your alternator, you would be the first person I know of that got the P0340/P0344 for some other reason. Just replace the alternator before you get stuck somewhere and have to add a tow truck bill to the cost, too.

BTW, I got a rebuilt unit here locally that has lasted longer than either of the two Ford alternators that went bad on me before that. I paid $270 total, and that included a new 8-rib pulley too.

 

[scramblr]

If it's not your alternator, you would be the first person I know of that got the P0340/P0344 for some other reason. Just replace the alternator before you get stuck somewhere and have to add a tow truck bill to the cost, too.

I was going to say the same thing. Got mine replaced as well and no more codes.

 

[cheftjpeck]

If it's not your alternator, you would be the first person I know of that got the P0340/P0344 for some other reason. Just replace the alternator before you get stuck somewhere and have to add a tow truck bill to the cost, too.

BTW, I got a rebuilt unit here locally that has lasted longer than either of the two Ford alternators that went bad on me before that. I paid $270 total, and that included a new 8-rib pulley too.

thx..so you are saying its not necessary to buy the freaking insane priced $395 alternator...will a PA 130amp be a good choice...I dont want the 200amp...its like $259..any thoughts etc...again thanks...

 

[don_w]

The last place I'd get one would be from a dealer... the PA 130A would be fine, IMO.

 

[cheftjpeck]

The last place I'd get one would be from a dealer... the PA 130A would be fine, IMO.

thx Don......I will get the pa 130 then....I think I can get for $259..but I am going to look locally...thx again..TJ

 

[kleistang]

old post. but i got this codes tonight. and the car was running rough, like misfiring. did urs did the same thing or it drove the same?

 

[Hawgman]

Holy crap... did someone actually use the search button!!?!?!