4.6 to 5.0 Stroker kits and Average Rebuild Cost

[Mustang504]

The link I provided is for an already remanufacted crank with bearings. That means that they have already turned it and polished the journals and are providing the properly sized bearings for the size of the reconditioned journals. If your 99 engine has an 8 bolt fw, then it should be a forged crank. If you are going to use it, I would take it to the machine shop and have it check, ground/polished before ordering any bearings.

Ok thank you. I will call the machinist on Tuesday and see which route is more beneficial (price wise). Cant thank you all enough for the help... it is greatly appreciated!

 

[Weou09]

http://www.modmaxracing.com/product_p/ros99629.htm with Boss connecting rods and re-using the stock 3v crank is probably the best bang for your buck. I know you are dying for cams but to my knowledge turbo grind cams will not lope and a lopey cams will not produce more power than the stock cams with a turbo. Ask Fuel, I believe he had aftermarket cams and swapped back to stock and picked up a good bit. With you saying you will be driving the car on the street more than the track I really can't stress enough how disappointing a 600+hp car will be on the street. Since you say your are going to build then boost. Build the motor with a stock, or higher, compression ratio and then see where you want to take it power wise. I mean my car was a hell of a lot of fun at 430. But like I said I track more than street so chasing an ET brings more power...

 

[JoshK]

^^I am learning that getting a higher hp car ready to be "legal" at the track takes a lot of coin. And to add on that, yes, If it has a lope it will run like a joke

 

[Weou09]

^^I am learning that getting a higher hp car ready to be "legal" at the track takes a lot of coin. And to add on that, yes, If it has a lope it will run like a joke

Absolutely! I have twice as much in "track legal" parts as I do in power adder parts. Shit gets stupid expensive fast!

 

[o2sys]

Sorry to interrupt your thread but I'm about to start my "budget" stroker build and didn't see a point in starting a new thread.

I just but a used block from another member here it's a stock 4.6 aluminum block, if I buy standard bore pistons, can I just go straight into assembling?

 

[BigRis]

What is this word "Budget"? lol. I started out just going to spend about $1000 on CAI, tuner ,underdrive and CMDPs. That is all I was going to do. Well I only went about 15 times that and now I am looking at another $6 -$7k to forge it. But than I will need a another pile of cash to be legal at the track again.
So my 2 cents is before you buy anything know exactly what you want the car to be when DONE. This way you will not have to spend money twice or the biggest thing I have seen is guys get a ton of money into the car and it is not what they want so they end up losing their butt selling it. So if you put $6500 into the car is it going to be Done? or are you going to spend your budget and find out you need another $5000 ?
I am at that point...I have way more into the car than I wanted. When I first started I would have been happy with 12's. Now the car runs 11.60 and I want to go faster. So either lose my ass and sell or dump alot more cash into the car.

 

[o2sys]

My goal is reached, but now I just want peace of mind and reliability with my block. And just want to have a stroker (I know how all you none believers feel about stroking) but it's what I want to try. So by budget I don't mean cheap but just getting things done just right for my application on my timeline not by the cars. But still doing it right once and forget about it.

 

[BruceH]

Sorry to interrupt your thread but I'm about to start my "budget" stroker build and didn't see a point in starting a new thread.

I just but a used block from another member here it's a stock 4.6 aluminum block, if I buy standard bore pistons, can I just go straight into assembling?

No. The cylinders need to be machined for the proper bore to piston clearance. Then they need to be honed with a proper break in finish. The whole rotating assembly has to go out for balancing too. Rings will need to be fitted.

That's best case scenario. Worst case will require decking the block and heads along with a main line hone. The crank might also need some work but probably won't as long as you followed Fords advice about caring for the motor.

 

[Mustang504]

http://www.modmaxracing.com/product_p/ros99629.htm with Boss connecting rods and re-using the stock 3v crank is probably the best bang for your buck. I know you are dying for cams but to my knowledge turbo grind cams will not lope and a lopey cams will not produce more power than the stock cams with a turbo. Ask Fuel, I believe he had aftermarket cams and swapped back to stock and picked up a good bit. With you saying you will be driving the car on the street more than the track I really can't stress enough how disappointing a 600+hp car will be on the street. Since you say your are going to build then boost. Build the motor with a stock, or higher, compression ratio and then see where you want to take it power wise. I mean my car was a hell of a lot of fun at 430. But like I said I track more than street so chasing an ET brings more power...

Ok so the only thing I should focus on is my rotating assembly and having it machined. I think that will be perfect for my budget and I may have a few thousands left over! What is track "legal"? I may lower that powerband but I really would like to see my car hit the strip and run low... mid... or high 10's. And why high compression?

Sorry to interrupt your thread but I'm about to start my "budget" stroker build and didn't see a point in starting a new thread.

I just but a used block from another member here it's a stock 4.6 aluminum block, if I buy standard bore pistons, can I just go straight into assembling?

By all means man enjoy! thats what its here for, I know im not alone.

 

[Weou09]

I saved a lot of money buy stuff used and still came in over budget. Like I said earlier plan to spend at least 1k more. Go with as high as compression as your tuner(Henson if that is the case) feels comfortable going on 93. Be sure to let him know that this will be a forced induction build though. He will tell you higher than factory, which is 9.8:1. Remember that more compression and timing with less boost will make a faster car than a car with less compression and timing and more boost. It will be more efficient in every aspect, even fuel mileage.

 

[d3vst8r96gt]

People talk about HP to cost ratio but after about 600hp it all cost the same... there are only about 10 big name manufacturers who make the forged internals and they do it for all makes and models... modular pushrods LS hemi etc.

As far as cams go. They are too easy to swap so pick a sound you like while not running boost. And after you get the coin to go turbo swap the cams out.... you're gonna need a retune anyways. The short block is what needs to be decided ahead of time..... there is another thread that talks about after market pistons and the actual cc calculations I'll try to find it.

The D3V

 

[SStang]

Does anyone know the Ford Part Number for the Boss Rods?

Thanks.

 

[BruceH]

Does anyone know the Ford Part Number for the Boss Rods?

Thanks.

No part number but if you want to order here's a link to one of our vendors. It's the second item down.

http://tascaparts.com/parts/2013/FO...ection=ENGINE&group=PISTONS, RINGS & BEARINGS

 

[skwerl]

I think WARstang has a new set for sale in the classifieds.