5.3L Stroker 3V build

Discussion in 'Hardcore Tech=*MOTOR SWAPS*' started by Poonisher, Mar 9, 2019.

  1. Poonisher

    Poonisher Junior Member

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    2005 GT Vert Auto with 140K.
    Mod list~
    Engine/Perf:

    FRPP Radiator w/ GT500 Fan
    FRPP Intake Manifold
    FRPP Hot Rod Cams
    FRPP High Vol Oil Pump w/ boundary billet gears
    Cylinder Heads P/P (61cc), work done by Fox Lake
    JLT Catch cans
    JLT CAI
    Steeda Underdrive pulley
    BBK Long tube headers w/ X-Pipe
    MBRP Axle back
    FRPP 4.10s w/ trac-lok carbon discs
    DeatschWerks 340 lph fuel pump
    TCI 3000 stall converter

    Suspension/wheel:

    Pedders eXtreme Xa Coilovers
    BMR Tubular K member w/ Rad and A-arm braces
    BMR Lower control A arms
    BMR Rear upper (Adj) and lower control arms w/ relocation brackets
    BMR Boxed subframe connectors
    FRPP Panhard bar (Adj)
    FRPP Brembo brakes w/ slotted rotors and stainless lines
    APEX EC-7 18x10 squared setup

    SCT tune by CRT Performance, currently 333rwhp

    So my question is regarding build. My goal is to keep as a daily driver but beef up bottom end and throw blower on it and be around 650-700HP to the tires. Then I thought might as well go 5.3L. I was going to buy the Brenspeed B326 or the FRPP 5.3L but I thought why not take opportunity to learn and build with sons/save more for blower. I do most of my own work typically but wont tear open a trans (confusing) and will pay for convenience if its cold outside :) So I bought this junk based off research of the assembled shortblocks for sale and my power needs.

    BLOCK
    M-6010-BOSS50

    PISTONS
    JE# 314623
    Ford 4.6L Modular 3 Valve
    Bore: 3.701"
    Dome Volume: -7.4
    Compression Ratio with 50cc Head: 11.0:1
    Weight: 362g
    Rod Length: 5.850"
    Stroke: 3.750"
    Pin Size: 0.866" ( I did upgrade pins to a .230 thickness for 700+HP)
    Recommended Ring Set: JG1008-3701
    Material: 2618 aluminum alloy.

    CONNECTING RODS
    Manley Steel H-Beam Connecting Rods Part# 14044-8
    Connecting Rod Length Center to Center (in): 5.850 in.
    Connecting Rod Beam Style: H-beam
    Connecting Rod Material: Forged 4340 steel
    Connecting Rod Finish: Shot-peened
    Wrist Pin Style: Floating
    Clearanced for Stroker: Yes
    Cap Retention Style: Cap screw
    Connecting Rod Bolt Brand: ARP
    Connecting Rod Bolt Diameter: 3/8 in.
    Connecting Rod Bolt Material: 8740 chromoly steel
    Fastener Yield Strength (psi): 160,000 psi
    Connecting Rod Bolt Head Style: 12-point
    Approximate Connecting Rod Weight (g): 612
    Big End Bore Diameter (in): 2.1250 in.
    Pin End Bore Diameter: 0.867 in.
    Big End Width (in): 0.940 in.
    Advertised Horsepower Rating: 750 hp
    Weight Matched Set: Yes
    Magnafluxed: Yes
    Notes: Designed for 22mm pin and 2.000 in. crank journal.

    CRANKSHAFT
    M-6303-46ST
    Eagle part # 428137505850
    Forged 4340 Chromoly Steel Crankshafts
    Use in 4.6L block to make 5.0L or M-6010-BOSS50 block to make 5.3L
    3.7500” stroke
    1.889” rod journal (-0.010”)
    2.657” main journal (-0.010”)
    5.850” minimum rod length
    8 bolt crankshaft
    Internal balance


    So I feel comfortable enough to do it but still need some advice.
    1. Is all the machining I need done, deck block and hone bores. Then have rotating assembly balanced? I plan taking to machine shop and telling them I need those done and then taking it all back to my house to assemble. also what would avg cost estimate be to do those ?

    2. The crank is "reworked .010" under on main and rod journals. Ground 10-10 to achieve correct bearing clearance in our stroker crate engine." what does that mean in regard to my bearings ( I haven't got those yet)?

    3. Do I need a different flexplate or is the stock one 8 bolt?

    4. Piston to valve clearance, is this a concern with stock deck height and mild Hot Rod cams? My calculations have my compression ratio around 9:5:1ish with the 61cc ported heads.

    5. Any other guidance or tips? My plan is to assemble short block and then have it mated to a TCI super street fighter trans, installed with my heads/accessories and tune. Drive for a few weeks and then get supercharger, and finalize tune and build.

    Am I missing anything?

    I already purchased all but bearings. I love the 3V sound and don't care it others think coyotes are better or stroker was unnecessary. I just need guidance, confirmation of my plan, and effective responses please so I don't blow it up.
     
  2. drive_55_not

    drive_55_not forum member

    573
    5
    1st thing ... Your piston/rod combo is not going to work with that Eagle crank, It uses a 1.889 "Honda" journal and as far as I know only their Eagle rods will work with it ..


    Are you sure the heads are 61cc bowls?

    They should only be 52cc tor 53cc after unshrouding the valves. I have a set of FRPP stage 1 ported heads and I checked the bowl cc and they came out at 52.5cc. PTV should not be an issue with the correct piston relief, but your C/R is going to be closer to 10.3:1 with a 52cc bowl. Not a big deal.

    You'll need the Boss motor mounts, M-6031-BOSS50.

    You need to get the cylinders honed for what pattern your rings call for.

    The deck is supposed to be correct, but should be checked to ensure it'c right with whatever piston/rod combo you are using. And the crank bore should be right also.

    I am installing a stock stoke Cobra crank Big Bore Boss motor myself, TKM Performance did the machine work and assembled the short block for $2200, that included miscellaneous stuff +NC tax.

    This is the what was done on mine, I'm planning to replace my TVS with a twin turbo setup and turning it to 8-K and want it to actually last as I don't wanna pull this motor again. Kevin is a drag racer running low 4's, and may have broken into the 3's so he knows how to build an engine,.

    File Fit rings, Assemble Piston Rack, Assemble Short Block, Check Main/Rod Clearance ………………………………………… $600

    Balance Rotating Assy/Add Mallory ……… $350
    Torque Plate Hone 3.702” ……………………… $225
    Line Hone ………………………………………………. $225
    CNC Deck ………………………………………………… $200
    Polish Crankshaft ………………………………….. $40

    Jet Wash/Debur Block ……………………. $85

    We had a discussion on another thread sometime back about machine cost, Yes you can get all that work done at Redneck Joe's machine shop for $300 and hope he knows the difference between a 40yr old BB Chebby push rod motor and a Ford modular.


    You'll need an 8 bolt flex plate, I used a PRW 1828111 when I did my 6R80 install.

    Good luck with your build..

    .
     
  3. Poonisher

    Poonisher Junior Member

    3
    0
    Thanks for response, I returned the rods, and got the Eagle ones that go to that crank. The bearings have to be modified by Eagle for the mains apparently as well.
     
  4. drive_55_not

    drive_55_not forum member

    573
    5
    Yes the bearings will need to be narrowed to fit .

    I haven't heard of anybody having issues with the Eagle rods, they are rated for the same 750hp Manley rates theirs for, plus Eagle ships with ARP2000 bolts where you pay an extra $100 for the ARP2000 for the Manley's.


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