2005 GT Vert Auto with 140K. Mod list~ Engine/Perf: FRPP Radiator w/ GT500 Fan FRPP Intake Manifold FRPP Hot Rod Cams FRPP High Vol Oil Pump w/ boundary billet gears Cylinder Heads P/P (61cc), work done by Fox Lake JLT Catch cans JLT CAI Steeda Underdrive pulley BBK Long tube headers w/ X-Pipe MBRP Axle back FRPP 4.10s w/ trac-lok carbon discs DeatschWerks 340 lph fuel pump TCI 3000 stall converter Suspension/wheel: Pedders eXtreme Xa Coilovers BMR Tubular K member w/ Rad and A-arm braces BMR Lower control A arms BMR Rear upper (Adj) and lower control arms w/ relocation brackets BMR Boxed subframe connectors FRPP Panhard bar (Adj) FRPP Brembo brakes w/ slotted rotors and stainless lines APEX EC-7 18x10 squared setup SCT tune by CRT Performance, currently 333rwhp So my question is regarding build. My goal is to keep as a daily driver but beef up bottom end and throw blower on it and be around 650-700HP to the tires. Then I thought might as well go 5.3L. I was going to buy the Brenspeed B326 or the FRPP 5.3L but I thought why not take opportunity to learn and build with sons/save more for blower. I do most of my own work typically but wont tear open a trans (confusing) and will pay for convenience if its cold outside So I bought this junk based off research of the assembled shortblocks for sale and my power needs. BLOCK M-6010-BOSS50 PISTONS JE# 314623 Ford 4.6L Modular 3 Valve Bore: 3.701" Dome Volume: -7.4 Compression Ratio with 50cc Head: 11.0:1 Weight: 362g Rod Length: 5.850" Stroke: 3.750" Pin Size: 0.866" ( I did upgrade pins to a .230 thickness for 700+HP) Recommended Ring Set: JG1008-3701 Material: 2618 aluminum alloy. CONNECTING RODS Manley Steel H-Beam Connecting Rods Part# 14044-8 Connecting Rod Length Center to Center (in): 5.850 in. Connecting Rod Beam Style: H-beam Connecting Rod Material: Forged 4340 steel Connecting Rod Finish: Shot-peened Wrist Pin Style: Floating Clearanced for Stroker: Yes Cap Retention Style: Cap screw Connecting Rod Bolt Brand: ARP Connecting Rod Bolt Diameter: 3/8 in. Connecting Rod Bolt Material: 8740 chromoly steel Fastener Yield Strength (psi): 160,000 psi Connecting Rod Bolt Head Style: 12-point Approximate Connecting Rod Weight (g): 612 Big End Bore Diameter (in): 2.1250 in. Pin End Bore Diameter: 0.867 in. Big End Width (in): 0.940 in. Advertised Horsepower Rating: 750 hp Weight Matched Set: Yes Magnafluxed: Yes Notes: Designed for 22mm pin and 2.000 in. crank journal. CRANKSHAFT M-6303-46ST Eagle part # 428137505850 Forged 4340 Chromoly Steel Crankshafts Use in 4.6L block to make 5.0L or M-6010-BOSS50 block to make 5.3L 3.7500” stroke 1.889” rod journal (-0.010”) 2.657” main journal (-0.010”) 5.850” minimum rod length 8 bolt crankshaft Internal balance So I feel comfortable enough to do it but still need some advice. 1. Is all the machining I need done, deck block and hone bores. Then have rotating assembly balanced? I plan taking to machine shop and telling them I need those done and then taking it all back to my house to assemble. also what would avg cost estimate be to do those ? 2. The crank is "reworked .010" under on main and rod journals. Ground 10-10 to achieve correct bearing clearance in our stroker crate engine." what does that mean in regard to my bearings ( I haven't got those yet)? 3. Do I need a different flexplate or is the stock one 8 bolt? 4. Piston to valve clearance, is this a concern with stock deck height and mild Hot Rod cams? My calculations have my compression ratio around 9:5:1ish with the 61cc ported heads. 5. Any other guidance or tips? My plan is to assemble short block and then have it mated to a TCI super street fighter trans, installed with my heads/accessories and tune. Drive for a few weeks and then get supercharger, and finalize tune and build. Am I missing anything? I already purchased all but bearings. I love the 3V sound and don't care it others think coyotes are better or stroker was unnecessary. I just need guidance, confirmation of my plan, and effective responses please so I don't blow it up.