add LSD or not when doing gears?

JC SSP

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In the last 30 years I have had six modified strip/strip and a some track Mustangs with stock 8.8 trac-lock and all were very reliable.

My little 5.0L coupe has an Auburn Pro and fully built differential but has double the HP/TQ and gets driven very hard.

I think you will be OK with 4:10 and stock or rebuilt LSD.
 

Pentalab

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The Ford Trac-Loc diff you see for sale around $250 is your original diff down to the carbon clutch packs.
The Torsen is the better driving experience, that's the main take away here. You can install a Torsen with a solid pinion spacer and if it is set up right never have to go into it again outside of fluid changes.
A clutch pack diff will wear out over time while also requiring special friction modifier added over time to keep it functional.

The Torsen is a superb LSD..... albeit, it's double the price of the Eaton Tru-trac.

On a side note, the Tru-trac comes in 2 x versions, normal and HD. Normal version is for oem 31 spine axles...and essentially drops right in. The HD version is for hardcore use, uses 33 spline axles, so only Moser or Strange engineering 33 spline axles will work with it. The HD version uses 4 x pinion gears per side, and the box it goes in is thicker steel...... vs 3 x pinion gears per side in the normal version. The HD version is typ used for drag racing....like when your 60' times are down to 1.4 seconds.

VMP (and other's) sell both versions. Years ago, both versions were reasonably priced...and occasionally on sale. For street use, (and also auto cross, road course, drag racing) the normal version of the Tru-trac is ample....and beats the oem LSD hands down in performance.

Since I was paying for the labor, it made more sense to just swap the oem LSD...with a real one. The whiteline watts link went in at the same time, so killed 2 birds with one stone. Then it's all a one shot deal, and never touched again....vs paying for labor to remove, rebuild / replace clutch packs, then re-install, then do it all again 2-3 years later.

Pay once, cry once...done.
 

MrBhp

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Why would you be rebuilding every two or three years? I've had multiple 8.8's that never needed clutches. Most of them were hammered cars. Street and quarter mile cars only, of course. My Shelby has the original clutches with 120k on them. I spent three years hitting the strip twice a month, plus a good deal of street racing. Mostly with slicks. Still hooks straight as an arrow.
 

JC SSP

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Yeah with 60K on the clock I would just put in the 4:10 gears, fresh quality fluid & friction modifier and enjoy.
 

eighty6gt

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My truetrac makes it hard to do u turns shoving the car around with the 305 nitto nt555r's. ;) I have two truetracs in my life, the other on is in the 10 bolt in my Chevrolet pickup.

The stock LSD, mine had the gt500 spec carbon clutches and always moaned and groaned when hot. There's a massive functional difference and change in feel with the truetrac. Much better.
 

RocketcarX

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My truetrac makes it hard to do u turns shoving the car around with the 305 nitto nt555r's. ;) I have two truetracs in my life, the other on is in the 10 bolt in my Chevrolet pickup.

The stock LSD, mine had the gt500 spec carbon clutches and always moaned and groaned when hot. There's a massive functional difference and change in feel with the truetrac. Much better.
No it doesn't, the treutrac doesn't lock.
 

JC SSP

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Many years ago, I rebuilt one of my factory track-loks and the new clutches were a pain to get in (they seemed thicker?) but after stuffing them in it felt like a spool. Both tires would spin going around a corner, eventually they loosened up and went back to limited-slip. I have had no complaints with my current setup Auburn Pro.

FYI 20 years ago I had a Torsen in my little 97' Miata and thing was a go-cart. Should had a V8! LOL :)
 

JEWC_Motorsports

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Just put the gears in it with good gear oil and additive. We dont know how you drive, maybe you just want a more solid seat of the pants feel. My only suggestion is to use a solid pinion spacer over the crush garbage. So much easier to dial in and not have gear whine.
 

Midlife Crises

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I would say that I love my TreuTrac but to be honest, I don’t even know it’s there. It does not make noise, jerk or pop. Goes around corners like a normal car and down the straight without complaint. Step on the gas straight or in a curve and there are two black marks on the hiway. Hammer it with the hardest launch on slicks and the car goes straight. What am I missing here?
 

GriffX

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If you are coasting and press the clutch you hear a clicking from the trutrack. The trutrack does not lock permanently like the basic Ford LSD, it transfers torque to the wheel with the highest traction (easy explanation).
When you have the axle raised and turn one wheel with the LSD the other turns in the same direction because of the clutch. The truetrack spins in the opposite direction like an open diff.

 
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Pentalab

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My truetrac makes it hard to do u turns shoving the car around with the 305 nitto nt555r's. ;) I have two truetracs in my life, the other on is in the 10 bolt in my Chevrolet pickup.

The stock LSD, mine had the gt500 spec carbon clutches and always moaned and groaned when hot. There's a massive functional difference and change in feel with the truetrac. Much better.
What gear oil are u using in the diff ? I used HD 75W-140 plane jane dino oil from cdn tire. Works superb, but also added the catch can on pass side rear axle. The tru-trac is totally transparent.
 

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