Aluminator SC performance

cyclerick

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Which compression ratio do you have 9.5:1 or 11.0:1?
What RWHP, boost levels and timing are you running with your aluminator?
What fuel and fuel components are you using?
Any down side to using an aluminator?
The aluminator is supposed to be a plug and play for the coyote. Any problems with the install?



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Sactown

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I am running the 3v aluminator
Compression: 8.5.1
RWHP: 666rwhp 582rwtq
fuel: e85
boost: 13psi
no down side, it was pretty much plug and play, I would assume it would be the same (plug and play wise) for the coyote version
 

cyclerick

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Am I to be the first to replace my Coyote with an Aluminator?


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Mystickeith50

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Yep. They'll be happy to finally sell one.

Lol.
To answer your question there are lots of variables. How much power are you looking for. I mean if you wanted to you could push 1000hp. You wouldn't be the first. How long will it last?...who knows. Some tuners will tell you to stay 11:1 and run lower boost, other will tell you that's nuts go 9.5. Fuel all depends on what your running(e85,93, etc) . You could get away with bigger injectors and a bap if you stay are 700 ish at the tire. Just make sure you get billet oil pump gears.
 

cyclerick

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I'm currently running 10lbs boost with a 3.15 pulley (BOV) and 17 degrees timing with BAP, Id1000s on stock internals with around 620-650 rwhp with 94 octane as e85 is not available. Doing oil pump gears is really not worth the work to get maybe another 50hp with stock internals as it's still a crap shoot how long the rods would last. If I have to pull my Paxton and do the oil pump gears then I would also do heads, slimmer, higher cfm fan, and lighter engine cradle. If you do heads then you have to pull the engine. If I'm going to do all that then I'd rather install an aluminator with 750-800 rwhp on forged internals and Boss valve springs than be stuck out of town when my coyote lets go.


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Mystickeith50

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I'm currently running 10lbs boost with a 3.15 pulley (BOV) and 17 degrees timing with BAP, Id1000s on stock internals with around 620-650 rwhp with 94 octane as e85 is not available. Doing oil pump gears is really not worth the work to get maybe another 50hp with stock internals as it's still a crap shoot how long the rods would last. If I have to pull my Paxton and do the oil pump gears then I would also do heads, slimmer, higher cfm fan, and lighter engine cradle. If you do heads then you have to pull the engine. If I'm going to do all that then I'd rather install an aluminator with 750-800 rwhp on forged internals and Boss valve springs than be stuck out of town when my coyote lets go.


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Yeah I wasn't suggesting to put billet ones in the stock long block. I was referring to the aluminator. They had some mix ups where even the ones that should of had them didn't. I was making 650 to the tire on stock internals when I upgraded. I did valve springs...that's all I did as head work goes. As long as the tune is good I don't see an issue with running 750-800 thru an aluminator. I'm at 700 and love it.
 

cyclerick

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You're right. Confirmation of the billet oil pump gears is a must. Glad the aluminator already has the Boss valve springs although I think I'd be happier if it had the complete Boss head (ported with the bigger valves)


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cyclerick

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Yeah I wasn't suggesting to put billet ones in the stock long block. I was referring to the aluminator. They had some mix ups where even the ones that should of had them didn't. I was making 650 to the tire on stock internals when I upgraded. I did valve springs...that's all I did as head work goes. As long as the tune is good I don't see an issue with running 750-800 thru an aluminator. I'm at 700 and love it.


Are you saying you did swap your coyote for the aluminator or did you just upgrade the oil pump gears and valve springs on your coyote? If you did the aluminator swap, did you do the aluminator install yourself. Did you
do a conventional pull or drop the engine and cradle? If you just did the springs and gears on your coyote, how long did it take you and what did it cost?


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Mystickeith50

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No I did a forged bottom and reused my heads and just upgraded the springs as well as put tss gears up front. I stayed 11:1.
 

BruceH

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FWIW I'd vote 11:1 if it was a poll. More compression, less boost means lower iats and less hp drag from turning the supercharger. My current setup made 585rwhp uncorrected with 8psi and e85. It also has 12:1 compression. You should be able to run 11:1 with 94 no problem. I've also run 11:1 and 12:1 with 92 and never had an issue.

More compression with less boost is going to give the same cylinder pressures and less compression and more boost but it's going to be easier on the motor imo.

I've had boosted setups both ways. Lower compression of 9.5 and higher with 10.76, 11, and 12. I'm in favor of more compression based on those experiences.
 

cyclerick

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FWIW I'd vote 11:1 if it was a poll. More compression, less boost means lower iats and less hp drag from turning the supercharger. My current setup made 585rwhp uncorrected with 8psi and e85. It also has 12:1 compression. You should be able to run 11:1 with 94 no problem. I've also run 11:1 and 12:1 with 92 and never had an issue.

More compression with less boost is going to give the same cylinder pressures and less compression and more boost but it's going to be easier on the motor imo.

I've had boosted setups both ways. Lower compression of 9.5 and higher with 10.76, 11, and 12. I'm in favor of more compression based on those experiences.


You make a convincing argument as I know my coyote with 10 lbs boost could take a lot more timing than 17 degrees and I would increase it if I thought the internals could take it in the long term. I'll give Ford racing another call and ask them about HP potential and longevity of the 11:1

Any tips for managing IATs? I am going to install a 4400 cfm fan to give more room in front of Paxton and increase cooling. Maybe I should also do meth injection?


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BruceH

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You make a convincing argument as I know my coyote with 10 lbs boost could take a lot more timing than 17 degrees and I would increase it if I thought the internals could take it in the long term. I'll give Ford racing another call and ask them about HP potential and longevity of the 11:1

Any tips for managing IATs? I am going to install a 4400 cfm fan to give more room in front of Paxton and increase cooling. Maybe I should also do meth injection?


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Are you having any issues with iats? Which Paxton do you have? Is there a hp number or 1/4 mile time you are chasing or is it just a quest for the most power possible?

The aluminator looks like an excellent deal to me. Mahle pistons, h beam rods, boss valve springs, and those excellent flowing coyote heads. It should be ready for and able to produce good, reliable power. Just order it already, lol. I'd also check with Sam 19COBRA93 for a good deal.
 

Gabe

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Looking at an Aluminator myself, but would love more torque.
After having driven my girlfriend's 550+ rwtq Shelby, my 5.0 seems to be lacking a bit in that low-end torque.
Is there an inexpensive stroker option for the Coyote block?
 

cyclerick

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Yes to IATs after multiple runs in 1/2 mile; drop in mph. Paxton 2200sl with 3.15 pulley and TQ booster set at 10psi. Ran 150mph this year (with 10 mph headwind and placed 11th in field of 85) and would like to run closer to 160 which requires 100 more rwhp (750). That's why I'm looking at the Aluminator.


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cyclerick

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Looking at an Aluminator myself, but would love more torque.
After having driven my girlfriend's 550+ rwtq Shelby, my 5.0 seems to be lacking a bit in that low-end torque.
Is there an inexpensive stroker option for the Coyote block?


More low-end TQ means more wheel spin. My car beat every mustang and Camaro at the 1/2 mile event including 2 super snakes (750hp and 1000hp) and a 2013 GT500 with launch control and modified Camaros with built engines. However I still placed 11th so I'd like to move up to around 7th place next year. The winning car was a Lambo with 2000hp which ran 330kph or 206mph. 2nd place was a Neon running 30psi at 168mph


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BruceH

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Looking at an Aluminator myself, but would love more torque.
After having driven my girlfriend's 550+ rwtq Shelby, my 5.0 seems to be lacking a bit in that low-end torque.
Is there an inexpensive stroker option for the Coyote block?

???? Your sig says you have 591/509. That should be enough to melt the tires with a foot stab. An option would be lower gears or e85. e85 adds hp and tq. My experience with a boosted motor has been from 10-15% depending on how much spark advance was added.
 

Gabe

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???? Your sig says you have 591/509. That should be enough to melt the tires with a foot stab. An option would be lower gears or e85. e85 adds hp and tq. My experience with a boosted motor has been from 10-15% depending on how much spark advance was added.

I run 305-40-18 drag radials, so I have very good traction, maybe I should just change out the tires for something less sticky, lol
 

cyclerick

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A positive displacement SC will always have more TQ at lower revs than a turbo or centrifical SC although that doesn't necessarily make it faster, but certainly means more tire spin
 

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