Auto Transmission problem

Discussion in '2005+ Ford Mustang v6 4.0L Tech' started by Gallopapujo, Jul 23, 2019.

  1. VistaBlue09

    VistaBlue09 Junior Member

  2. 08MustangDude

    08MustangDude forum member

    Maybe on their site it does say it, but in the owners manual, I didn't see it.
    Most people I know don't go to the "Owners" section of the site. I do, I
    put in all my service records.

    The GT bell-housing has the starter on the opposite side...
  3. Gallopapujo

    Gallopapujo Junior Member

    Lesson Learned that for sure thank you all. Im cave in and have the trans redone from scratch.
  4. hobojck

    hobojck Junior Member

    Ford says one thing in the owners manual and another is the service manual. Mine took a dump at 117000.
  5. 08MustangDude

    08MustangDude forum member

    They're actually not a bad transmission, but it would have been so much
    better had they went with brakes in the drums, instead of bands. People
    don't know there are two band adjustments on the transmission. The main
    reasons these fail is heat, servo and band failure. The bands do need adjusted
    after a period of time. You loosen the stop nut, turn the center screw to
    120"-lbs then back off 2 full turns. Then tighten the stop nut to 40'-lbs.
    The issue here is the nuts have a tapered seal on them that may fail once
    you loosen them up, and then you leak fluid from there... SO, have
    a new set of these nuts just in case... Reverse band is not adjustable,
    and the servo is internal.

    The other failure is the servo bores for 3rd and O/D. The bores wear, and
    the servos stick, or stick and release. So, the band don't apply or is delayed,
    and causes the damage to the clutch packs or drums.


    MAIN failure, HEAT! These coolers are not an AUX cooler after the radiator. IT is a
    stand alone cooler between the condenser and radiator. This allows too much fluctuation
    in the transmission temperatures. When idling in gear, the trans fluid temp gets hotter than
    it should, and hotter with the A/C on as the condenser heats. If you get a radiator with a
    trans cooler built in (heat exchanger), go through that first, then the factory cooler. Then
    you have a steady temperature to begin with, then the secondary cooling afterwards. While
    driving, it stays at about 173-175 degrees, but once you idle, it gets up to 184. You don't
    want to go higher than 170, ideally. The cooler should be in the VERY FRONT of the car,
    not sandwiched between the rad and condenser. My former Charger had a bigger one,
    and was right in front.

    I am up there in miles, I would say around 115,500, or so... I get delayed reverse
    engagement when hot, it will bang into gear if I put any pedal into it before it
    shifts, so I had to get used to waiting, then gassing... I get some noise when
    shifting while coasting at times, just a little knock into gear here and there. If I
    am at WOT, there is a binding 2-3 shift at times, so the servo is sticking, or the
    band needs adjusted. I fixed it for a while when I used the Firm Shift feature in
    the tune, but I am back to factory shifting, and it's still firmer than it was when I
    first bought it. I added a trans catch, and put some Lucas Trans conditioner in
    it, seems to have helped some. I gotta get, at least, that Intermediate band
  6. hobojck

    hobojck Junior Member

    Mine had the same issue with reverse.
  7. Pentalab

    Pentalab forum member

    On my 2010 GT, with M90 blower, twin 62mm TB, LT's and 94 tune, it eventually gets up to 170 F.... then stays put. On the hwy, mash the gas, blower on, drops into 3rd gear.... and tranny temps soar to 200 F... in 5-8 secs.

    Replaced oem steel tranny pan with a PA 5/8" thick aluminum pan.... with 3/8" ribs on it. 2.1" deeper, holds an extra 4 qts.... locking dip stick, mag drain plug. Installed jdm tranny catch can. Still too hot. Installed 7 bar upper grille plus B+M 13 k btu tranny cooler. Cooler installed directly below oem tranny cooler. Flushed ATF.... then in went RP.."max atf 100% synthetic."

    Now with blower on...on hwy, gets up to a max of 171...sometimes 172 F.

    The roush 18" tall x 21" wide HE sits on stand offs... way in front of AC rad. Power steering cooler is jammed tight.. between AC rad..and HE. (bottom ).

    Problems far so good for the last 6 yrs.
  8. 08MustangDude

    08MustangDude forum member