Avg. Cost for a detailer to apply opti-coat?

Kbreeze

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There are many ways to get a more reasonable prince from someone doing this type of work for you. Since you know how you want your vehicle cleaned, do that portion of it yourself. The wheels, wheel wells, interior, glass, etc are all things that you can do and remove some tedious work from the detailer and he could lower the cost.

I know I would charge less if i didn't have to touch anything but paint on the vehicle. Its only a fair compromise if you give up something for paying less. Asking someone to just charge less for that much work doesn't seem fair to the person actually doing the work.

Either way, the coating isn't your biggest concern, it's the quality of the compound (if needed) and polish work that matters the most. The coating is the cherry on top, that you want someone who has done it correctly before to do on your car.

Yeah I only want the exterior paint done and nothing else is necessary. I will see if I can work out a deal with LI Detailers where they only do the paint and nothing else. I know the guy is active over on Autopia and they do a lot of exotics...ferrari's, Lambo's etc.
 

Seer

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Good luck with that though. Most detailers don't want a car leaving them looking half done.
 

shad2009

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i really applaud seer for continuing to educate you on this matter...you clearly aren't taking into consideration what he is actually saying, and you just made his point in an earlier response saying nobody can tell the difference between a top of the line detail and a mediocredetail...there is a huge difference...i detail on the side just like seer and only use quality products...if i'm spending 12+ hours on a car (which is possible on just the exterior if it's that bad) i'm going to charge for it...you say your car is mint, have you looked at it with a shop light to see just how damaged it is?...nobody here is bashing you but with the replies you make you come off as somebody that knows everything yet your asking for help...somebody else said it before, "to learn you need to get fucked once" if you think you're going to have a long lasting detail for $400, you're crazy...but good luck, i really hope you don't shell out $400 and a couple months later your going nuts because your car looks just like it did $400 ago
 

Kbreeze

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i really applaud seer for continuing to educate you on this matter...you clearly aren't taking into consideration what he is actually saying,

I wouldn't go that far. He has given me some useful info in terms of products etc, in fact he is the one who turned me on to Opti-Coat. But the rest is just an exchange of different opinions & perspectives on the matter. And I do appreciate and respect his experience and knowledge but that doesn't mean I'm going to completely agree with every thing he says because I'm clearly not as anal as him about it.

and you just made his point in an earlier response saying nobody can tell the difference between a top of the line detail and a mediocredetail...there is a huge difference...i detail on the side just like seer and only use quality products...if i'm spending 12+ hours on a car (which is possible on just the exterior if it's that bad) i'm going to charge for it...you say your car is mint, have you looked at it with a shop light to see just how damaged it is?
Exactly my point....you have to take a shop light and look at it up close to even see these imperfections. When you are out and about are there swarms of people walking around with shop lights critiquing everyones cars? 99.99% of the time when you are driving your car around or people are seeing it parked they will not see an ounce of difference between a Hobbyist level detail and a Concours level detail. They will just see a really nice shiny car. ANYTHING that we own that we put under a microscope will show imperfections. Especially things that are exposed to the elements. It's just a matter of how OCD anal you want to be about it.

With that said, what I am MOST concerned about is proper preparation to make sure the Opti-coat adheres properly. If their polishing didn't take 100% of the imperfections out making it totally perfect but made it 95% thats ok with me as long as nothign is glaring of course. But I want to make damn sure the suface is 100% clean and dry and stripped of all surface contaminants before applying the Opti-Coat and of course that they apply the Opti-Coat properly.

My goal is basically to have it look at least as good as it does after I do my clay - NXT 2.0 routine (Which I'm sure if far from perfect by your standards) and to have that Opti-Coat protection on so it will basically stay looking that way and stay sealed for 3-5 (or more) years. And just need basic washing's etc during that time, so that I don't have to worry about it for a long time and be happy knowing my paint is sealed and protected. That's my goal.

if you think you're going to have a long lasting detail for $400, you're crazy...but good luck, i really hope you don't shell out $400 and a couple months later your going nuts because your car looks just like it did $400 ago

There is no reason it shouldn't be long lasting if the Opti-Coat is applied properly to a clean surface. That's the whole point of Opti-Coat. Maybe it won't be as perfect under a microscope as you or seer would like. But what I see when they are done should last years, again, assuming they applied it to a perfectly clean surface.
 

Mustang259

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I do my own cars, by hand, no power tools, and spend a minimum of 6 hours when I polish and wax,etc., so I think the rates Seer stated are reasonable for someone who is a qualified detailer.
I think the OP could simply try the shop he listed and see for himself if the price is right, otherwise keep looking or do it himself. I wouldn't be afraid of putting opticoat on myself, just make sure the prep is good and do it!
Just as an example, we have a detailer in town who often quotes very good prices, so I went to see him and he was in the process of washing a car. The problem?, He was using a pressure washer, single bucket method, somewhat mysterious about what products he uses and did not appear to be detail oriented.
Is he inexpensive, yes
Does he do the job, yes
Will he touch my Mustang, NO
So maybe go look these guys up and see them in action, they may be great or maybe not.
Just my 2 cents.
 

Kbreeze

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I debated doing it myself, but I don't even own an orbital polisher and would need to buy other supplies too. Plus I don't want to apply that opti-coat outside in case shit flies in it while I am trying to apply it. Plus it could start raining or who knows what. It's an all day process and weather changes....or like if the neighbor starts cutting his grass and all that shit is flying in the air if you know what I mean. My garage is too small to do it in there.
 

MLC40

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Opticoat

I did my car and my wife's daily driver with opticoat last year. As stated the real work is getting the paint perfect before you coat. I spent over 50 hours on 3 stages of correction. Once the paint is the way you want it putting opticoat on is easy. BTW, for my wife's I did not correct the paint to the same level as I did on my car. I used M205 and SF4500 then an IPA wipe down then opticoat. Her car handled winter great and I will add some optiseal soon. My is still in sleep from winter but will be hitting the track soon.
 

Kbreeze

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I don't know if it's true or not but I heard adding sealants and waxes on top of opti-coat is a waste because they don't adhere and basically come right off because opti-coat is so slick it doesn't really allow anything to stick to it.
 

muztangman93

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I think the discussion should be over. I read every post. Seer makes some good points. I dont really understand the reasoning behind trying to argue about it. Seer is doing a process thas totally different then you are looking for. Just move on if your happy with someone skipping a bunch of steps and doing it for half price thats the way to go.
 

Seer

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I don't know if it's true or not but I heard adding sealants and waxes on top of opti-coat is a waste because they don't adhere and basically come right off because opti-coat is so slick it doesn't really allow anything to stick to it.

Most people put opti seal over it. They are very similar chemically, except opti seal has a lesser impact and is considered a wipe on walk away sealant.

It also depends on the sealant you apply. Polymer sealants need to cross link to a bare surface or a compatible glaze. Synthetic sealants will adhere to cured opti coat, since opti coat is a resin, it in itself is considered to be a "bare" clear coat.

If you read Dr. G's postings about opti coat, it is considered to be a sacrificial layer of secondary clear coat, that is a lot more resistant to marring/scratching than today's soft clears.

People do a carnauba wax over it for looks.
 

shad2009

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There is no reason it shouldn't be long lasting if the Opti-Coat is applied properly to a clean surface. That's the whole point of Opti-Coat. Maybe it won't be as perfect under a microscope as you or seer would like. But what I see when they are done should last years, again, assuming they applied it to a perfectly clean surface.

and that's what we're trying to tell you...low cost = cut corners...you really just said it yourself, "assuming" they apply it to a perfectly clean surface...and no people are not out with shop lights, that wasn't my point...a detailer that values their work will do everything possible to make sure everything is done right...you took everything i said and smacked it into left field...i'm only saying "you get what you pay for" and if you think $400 is going to get you what you're looking for, then i hope you're happy with it...but if it's not, don't come back here saying what a shit job somebody did and to never send anybody there

you sound just like the guy who's Ferrari i did last year...thought my price was way too high compared to the $300 he was quoted from somebody who guaranteed the work...well that guy came right back to me the same day he picked his car up, why? because that $300 was a shit job

but hey, if you're happy after it's finished, that's all that matters
 
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Kbreeze

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and that's what we're trying to tell you...low cost = cut corners...you really just said it yourself, "assuming" they apply it to a perfectly clean surface...and no people are not out with shop lights, that wasn't my point...a detailer that values their work will do everything possible to make sure everything is done right...you took everything i said and smacked it into left field...i'm only saying "you get what you pay for" and if you think $400 is going to get you what you're looking for, then i hope you're happy with it...but if it's not, don't back here saying what a shit job somebody did and to never send anybody there
You only see black or white, man, no sense trying to reason with you. The surface can be can still be well prepped for the Opti-Clear to adhere properly without every minute cosmetic blemish perfectly polished out.
 
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Kbreeze

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But it wont be the best it can be. It sounds like you're convinced on the $400 option so what else is there to talk about?

Not exactly, because I dont even know the operation. They could be total D-bags who do sh*t work, or they could be really good but just don't charge as much. Time will tell. I'm simply trying to say that I don't need every single visual imperfection that shows up under a microscope perfectly polished out. But I do want good surface prep in terms of removing all contaminants and the opti-coat applied properly. What I am saying is not rocket science. Also some of you have to realize you are obsessed, OCD and anal where its not necessary. It's ok, it happens to us all with hobbies. We all get carried away. Look at all the forums online....for example candlepowerforums.com or bladeforums.com or watchuseek.com Do you really think any of these guys NEED that many flashlights, that many knives, that many watches? Of course not but it's their thing. Same thing applies here.
 
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shad2009

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You only see black or white, man, no sense trying to reason with you. The surface can be can still be well prepped for the Opti-Clear to adhere properly without every minute cosmetic blemish perfectly polished out.

i only see in black and white? says the person who flat out said somebody was wrong after asking for help...nothing like that should be put on the vehicle unless it's fully prepped...that's like saying "i half prepped the car for paint, just throw the base coats and clear on and call it a day"...that really scares me that would pay $400 of your hard earned money for something not fully prepped...after you literally just said "assuming they applied it to a perfectly clean surface"

good luck
 
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warpig12354

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LOL, us detaliers are very detail oriented and having something that I know I could fix and leaving it would bug me, so yeah, I guess i'm pretty anal. Is that a bad thing? No. Whats wrong with doing something to the best of your ability?
 

Kbreeze

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i only see in black and white? says the person who flat out said somebody was wrong after asking for help...nothing like that should be put on the vehicle unless it's fully prepped...that's like saying "i half prepped the car for paint, just throw the base coats and clear on and call it a day"...that really scares me that would pay $400 of your hard earned money for something not fully prepped...after you literally just said "assuming they applied it to a perfectly clean surface"

good luck

You have reading comprehension deficiencies bro.
 

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