Blowing off oil cap.

[hockeygod]

So to break it down I have a 2010 mustang which currently has ford hot rod can shafts, ford racing throttle body, cmdp, accel super cop, colder plugs, long tubes and the Paxton 2200sl Ho. A lot of other mods such as suspension but I don't see them being relevant to this problem. On to the problem.
I hit boost a few weeks ago in the higher rpm range (above 4500rpm) my oil cap is blew off along with tons of oil. I checked all connections, cleaned the motor, check and added a small amount of oil and all was good. Then last week it happened again but I also blew a boost hose off of the passenger side of the intercooler. I thought that it was maybe the motor so I had it compression tested and it came back perfect.

I have thoughts but am unsure of what it could be and wanted to get this issue nailed down before installing my new forged motor and breaking it in.

My thoughts are:
-Paxton's weird PCB setup on the driver side is introducing crankcase pressure
-one of the two bypass valves Paxton uses is bad.

Those are all I can think of. I was also thinking of eliminating that PCB and changing to our catch can or run. Both in conjunction. What does everyone think of all this?

 

[Wes06]

Maybe grab some breathers and run them and see if it still does it. Cheap way to find out

Then you can decide what needs money spent on it

 

[hockeygod]

Maybe grab some breathers and run them and see if it still does it. Cheap way to find out

Then you can decide what needs money spent on it

I have dug through a ton of forums and have found a ton of contradicting information regarding breather setup or if its even OK to use just breathers. If anyone can clear up how the setup should be connected and used I would love to hear it.

 

[Wild White Pony]

If your using the 2 plastic bosch bypass valves and running an HO, you should have a breather on the passenger side of the valve cover IICR, the hose that ran back to the intake is deleted in the HO. Sounds like one of the BPV valves isn't working well since you also blew off an inter cooler hose coming out of boost. To blow an oil cap off, wow, they usually pop the oil level stick first. Does the engine surge coming out of boost, or does come down on rpm quick and clean?

 

[hockeygod]

If your using the 2 plastic bosch bypass valves and running an HO, you should have a breather on the passenger side of the valve cover IICR, the hose that ran back to the intake is deleted in the HO. Sounds like one of the BPV valves isn't working well since you also blew off an inter cooler hose coming out of boost. To blow an oil cap off, wow, they usually pop the oil level stick first. Does the engine surge coming out of boost, or does come down on rpm quick and clean?

According to Paxton's install instructions on their website the passenger side port should be connected to the intake pure supercharger on both the H.O and non H.O versions.
I was also surprised the oil dipstick didn't pop up. The engine comes back down fairly quickly but I still suspect the Bosch bypass valves. Is there a way I can apply vacuum to the bypass valve to check if its operating properly? Also should I use my upr catch can with the drivers side Pcv or remove the PCv all together?

 

[JeremyH]

Maybe grab some breathers and run them and see if it still does it. Cheap way to find out

Then you can decide what needs money spent on it

I have dug through a ton of forums and have found a ton of contradicting information regarding breather setup or if its even OK to use just breathers. If anyone can clear up how the setup should be connected and used I would love to hear it.

You just put a breather one each valve cover and a vacuum cap and clamp on the intake manifold and tube. That would let you know its motor or blower pressurizing the crankcase. Its perfectly okay. Been doing it for 15 years now on my 2v and 3v.

 

[Wild White Pony]

Well, if you still have the hose valve cover connected to the intake and 1 of your bypass valves is sticking, you certainly would get a lot of pressure back into the valve cover.

I know Vortech had another one way valve that you connected from the drivers valve cover to the intake or your catch can. I'm positive on my Vortech HO kit they deleted that passenger side hose and gave you a crappy little valve cover breather, or IJCR well.
Really check those plastic bypass valves, you can put some vac to it, you should be able to hear it clicking. I got rid of those plastic BPV pretty quickly back when I had it setup with a bypass system, replaced plastic ones with a vortech Mini Race BPV.

I could always tell when the bypass valves weren't working well, my pulse widths that my Snow Performace gauge read would be all over the place during normal driving. I would imagine you could see the same feedback by looking at your maf counts.

Here is how I had it setup back then with the minirace and power pipe.

 

[hockeygod]

Well, if you still have the hose valve cover connected to the intake and 1 of your bypass valves is sticking, you certainly would get a lot of pressure back into the valve cover.

I know Vortech had another one way valve that you connected from the drivers valve cover to the intake or your catch can. I'm positive on my Vortech HO kit they deleted that passenger side hose and gave you a crappy little valve cover breather, or IJCR well.
Really check those plastic bypass valves, you can put some vac to it, you should be able to hear it clicking. I got rid of those plastic BPV pretty quickly back when I had it setup with a bypass system, replaced plastic ones with a vortech Mini Race BPV.

I could always tell when the bypass valves weren't working well, my pulse widths that my Snow Performace gauge read would be all over the place during normal driving. I would imagine you could see the same feedback by looking at your maf counts.

Here is how I had it setup back then with the minirace and power pipe.

So you were able to replace both bosche bypass valves with a single vortech race bpv? Have any pictures of that plumbing? Also when the new motor goes in the end of the month I am swapping to 3.12 blower pulley and 10% overdrive from innovator west. Not sure how much boost that combo would put out but I want a bpv that can handle the boost. Also I might still put a breather on the passenger side. Any idea what size breather?

 

[07 Boss]

CFM has that breather that you put in place of your oil cap. It has a check valve and only opens when there is pressure. This doesn't solve the issue that is causing the pressure to build, but it will relieve that pressure when it happens.

I've run breathers on every build I've done since 1980 and zero issues. IMO it is the easiest hassle free way to vent the crankcase on any motor. There are a couple of drawbacks but they are outweighed by the benefits.

 

[hockeygod]

CFM has that breather that you put in place of your oil cap. It has a check valve and only opens when there is pressure. This doesn't solve the issue that is causing the pressure to build, but it will relieve that pressure when it happens.

I've run breathers on every build I've done since 1980 and zero issues. IMO it is the easiest hassle free way to vent the crankcase on any motor. There are a couple of drawbacks but they are outweighed by the benefits.

So technically i could put a breather on both passenger and drivers side valve covers and cap both the ports on the intake and on the intake manifold?

 

[Wes06]

Yes that's a method, just not have the intake connected and let the engine breath through the covers

 

[Wild White Pony]

So you were able to replace both bosche bypass valves with a single vortech race bpv? Have any pictures of that plumbing? Also when the new motor goes in the end of the month I am swapping to 3.12 blower pulley and 10% overdrive from innovator west. Not sure how much boost that combo would put out but I want a bpv that can handle the boost. Also I might still put a breather on the passenger side. Any idea what size breather?

Your seeing the plumbing right in that picture. But since I've gone down the many different ways to do this by using a BPV, I would suggest you go blow through instead of messing with returning the air down the road.

My current setup is that way and I use just one vented catch can mounted up under the front clip, both of the valve cover breath into that can. Having breathers on the valve cover works fine but IMO can smells inside the car and oil up your covers. You need to keep those valve breathers pretty clean all time, using the can method the oil and water gets trapped and can be drained.

A pic of the passenger side, I use a Metco oil cap fitting and run the hose to the breather, driver side just use the existing snap on.

Pic of the Moroso breather can under the front clip.

 

[hockeygod]

Your seeing the plumbing right in that picture. But since I've gone down the many different ways to do this by using a BPV, I would suggest you go blow through instead of messing with returning the air down the road.

My current setup is that way and I use just one vented catch can mounted up under the front clip, both of the valve cover breath into that can. Having breathers on the valve cover works fine but IMO can smells inside the car and oil up your covers. You need to keep those valve breathers pretty clean all time, using the can method the oil and water gets trapped and can be drained.

A pic of the passenger side, I use a Metco oil cap fitting and run the hose to the breather, driver side just use the existing snap on.

Pic of the Moroso breather can under the front clip.

So what would be required for s blow though setup? I assume relocating the maf after the intercooler and before the throttle body? Would the factory mad work if I already have a diablosport mad extender. Also I would need a pipe with a bpv welded onto it? Which bpv is that and is there only one because the first pic you sent and the last look vastly different.

 

[Wild White Pony]

You would move the maf location in a blow through setup after the cooler. In your case probably on the pipe coming up to the throttle body. You could use your stock stock maf with the extender however you would need a tuner to dial in the transfer function. It would be easier to purchase and SCT, Pro-M or other aftermarket maf that come with the transfer function files already for SCT. The change from draw through to blow through, location of the maf and the pipe diameter that your slot mafs mounted to and added turbulence created takes a bit of dialing in so going to a local tuner or using someon like Lito here will be needed.
The 2 pics your questioning as different is because one is a Bypass setup that was directed at your question of plumbing not using the stock BPV, the other is a blow through setup, that's now a BOV and boost goes to atmosphere. In this case your assured also that your not pressurizing the valve covers with any boost when you get out of it.

It's not hard or expensive to change, you can buy a Tial 50mm BOV that comes with an aluminum flange mount about anyplace and the maf flange mount from VMP. You want to keep that maf about 6" away from any bends and clock it by rotating the up pipe till you see the cleanest signal coming from your datalog on maf counts. Vortech also now has an air straightner they use on the new coyote setups that you can put in that will help smooth out the flow of air for a better signal.

Here is a pic of the maf location when I had it setup that way your looking to go.

 

[hockeygod]

You would move the maf location in a blow through setup after the cooler. In your case probably on the pipe coming up to the throttle body. You could use your stock stock maf with the extender however you would need a tuner to dial in the transfer function. It would be easier to purchase and SCT, Pro-M or other aftermarket maf that come with the transfer function files already for SCT. The change from draw through to blow through, location of the maf and the pipe diameter that your slot mafs mounted to and added turbulence created takes a bit of dialing in so going to a local tuner or using someon like Lito here will be needed.
The 2 pics your questioning as different is because one is a Bypass setup that was directed at your question of plumbing not using the stock BPV, the other is a blow through setup, that's now a BOV and boost goes to atmosphere. In this case your assured also that your not pressurizing the valve covers with any boost when you get out of it.

It's not hard or expensive to change, you can buy a Tial 50mm BOV that comes with an aluminum flange mount about anyplace and the maf flange mount from VMP. You want to keep that maf about 6" away from any bends and clock it by rotating the up pipe till you see the cleanest signal coming from your datalog on maf counts. Vortech also now has an air straightner they use on the new coyote setups that you can put in that will help smooth out the flow of air for a better signal.

Here is a pic of the maf location when I had it setup that way your looking to go.

OK so I have a few more questions. Do I have to upgrade my maf sensor with that setup? I already have a diablo maf extender. Also did you need to run a waste gate with this setup in top of the bov?

 

[Wild White Pony]

Probably not if you have the maf extender and not pushing a lot of hp, what are you at and what's your goals? It does help tuning by using an upgraded one with the Transfer values sheet that would be included, using the stock + extender your tuner will need to start from scratch on your transfer function values. No need for a waste gate.

 

[hockeygod]

Probably not if you have the maf extender and not pushing a lot of hp, what are you at and what's your goals? It does help tuning by using an upgraded one with the Transfer values sheet that would be included, using the stock + extender your tuner will need to start from scratch on your transfer function values. No need for a waste gate.

Motor wise I am starting from square one. I order a brenspeed b326 stage 3 long block, a magnum xl transmission, a 3.12 supercharger pulley, a 10% overdrive innovator west crank pulley, deitworks 78lb injectors, ford racing intake manifold, I already had ford racing throttle body. I have gt500 fuel pumps with upgraded harness and twin kennel bell 40 amp boost a Pumps. I also upgraded to all BMR k member and undercar bracing as well as changed out to koni shocks and struts with steeds springs, and BMR for the rest of the suspension. I am just waiting for the motor to come in so I am unsure of the power it will make until tuned. My goal is to get to 650-700rwp at some point. I plan on running brenspeeds motor break in tune with the draw through paxton design during the break in period and then switch up to blow through for dyno tuning. Does anyone have any further reccomendations? Also what do you think HP potential is?

 

[Wild White Pony]

If you feel your done with the issue of pressure blowing off your oil cap, I would start a new thread in Chit Chat with your new setup. Layout the build info like have above asking your questions, you will receive a lot of good info and recommendations from people here. I would first recommend researching the best tuner for what you have and what your trying to accomplish, protecting that large investment your getting into.

 

[hockeygod]

If you feel your done with the issue of pressure blowing off your oil cap, I would start a new thread in Chit Chat with your new setup. Layout the build info like have above asking your questions, you will receive a lot of good info and recommendations from people here. I would first recommend researching the best tuner for what you have and what your trying to accomplish, protecting that large investment your getting into.

Well I haven't fully solved it yet or I have at least partially. I changed to a 100% breather set up and seem to be OK now. I am getting some oil in my catch can now as well. What concerns me is that I took over the Paxton intake directly before the supercharger to cap the line from the driver side valve cover and found a heavy coating of oil on the inside of the silicone pipe connector and also on the supercharger inlet. I guessing this could have been from the oil that blew out of the oil cap being sucked into the intake, or worse case the bpv is not functioning and pressure is building up and blowing back through the supercharger. I am not sure which yet. I just wanted to figure this out before slapping it on the new motor.