Brake pad change

[Blue Vue]

Well im about to swap out my pads on my 06 saleen (stock GT brakes)

Im putting in some EBC red stuff pads, and my car just hit 8k miles, so im using the existing rotors and am not planning on getting them turned.

My question is: Do i need to touch the rotors at all before I just swap the pads out? (other that brake parts cleaner)

 

[Stangmeister9]

Not sure what your asking?

After i decoded your post i think your asking if you can touch the rotors and if you do can you clean them with brake parts cleaner.

You will touch them upon removal and touch when placing the rotors back on the car (just do so with clean hands/no grease).

and yes you can use brake parts cleaner. use the SEARCH function to search topics like this have been discussed already!

 

[DusterRT]

I think he's asking if he needs them resurfaced, or if he's ok going from OE to EBC. EBC street pads have that surface prep/break in stuff, I think you'll be fine just pad slapping it (I did the same with Yellowstuff a couple years ago, no ill effects).

 

[argonaut]

I think he is asking about cleaning off the deposits left on the rotors (you know...the pad transfer layer) from the old pads before he installs the new ones. If thats the case: I've done this at least 100 times and I don't worry about it. I just bed in the new pads really well. If there is any judder/vibration...go bed them again.

Edit: Duster beat me to it.

 

[DusterRT]

Yeah, the only time I've ever heard of people having issues is when it comes to race-compound pads.

 

[DRock]

Would hawk HP+ pads be considered race Pads? And should you turn the rotors at 30k if your going to the track?

Sorry for the threadjack buddy but figured it was ok since you already gOt yOur answer.

 

[KillrStang]

Would hawk HP+ pads be considered race Pads? And should you turn the rotors at 30k if your going to the track?

Sorry for the threadjack buddy but figured it was ok since you already gOt yOur answer.

+1 same question

 

[DusterRT]

Well, if *I* were going to track a car that had 30k on it, I would just replace the rotors. With the local rate of $15-20 or more per rotor for resurfacing, and a full set of take-off GT rotors running under $200 the last time I checked, it's not really that expensive.

It's impossible to say for sure though. At a minimum I would start by sticking a mic on the rotors and see if/how badly they're tapered and just worn in general, and go from there. Ideally, yes, you'd have a fresh surface, but it's something you might get away without (EBC's have an advantage over most with their 'rotor conditioning' later or whatever it is they call it that allegedly scrubs the old transfer layer off). I've gotten away with changing brands/types of pads without resurfacing in the past (largely out of ignorance of the science behind how brakes worked, early in my wrench spinning career), but it doesn't mean it will work out favorably in every single case. Your mileage may very, experiment at your own risk, consuming undercooked meat may be hazardous to your health, etc. etc.

 

[DRock]

Well, if *I* were going to track a car that had 30k on it, I would just replace the rotors. With the local rate of $15-20 or more per rotor for resurfacing, and a full set of take-off GT rotors running under $200 the last time I checked, it's not really that expensive.

It's impossible to say for sure though. At a minimum I would start by sticking a mic on the rotors and see if/how badly they're tapered and just worn in general, and go from there. Ideally, yes, you'd have a fresh surface, but it's something you might get away without (EBC's have an advantage over most with their 'rotor conditioning' later or whatever it is they call it that allegedly scrubs the old transfer layer off). I've gotten away with changing brands/types of pads without resurfacing in the past (largely out of ignorance of the science behind how brakes worked, early in my wrench spinning career), but it doesn't mean it will work out favorably in every single case. Your mileage may very, experiment at your own risk, consuming undercooked meat may be hazardous to your health, etc. etc.

Why thank you. My rotors should be here in time, but if they are not, i wanted to know if i could. Hell, i might just stick with the stock shit all together for the first time around.

 

[Blue Vue]

Thanks guys my question was answered.
And yes i was talking about cleaning of the old pad transfer for the new pads

 

[argonaut]

Would hawk HP+ pads be considered race Pads? And should you turn the rotors at 30k if your going to the track?

Sorry for the threadjack buddy but figured it was ok since you already gOt yOur answer.

No - HP+ are street pads, suitable for light track usage. I wouldn't turn the rotors. Just run them as they are. 30K of street use with OEM pads is nothing. You will probably put more wear on them in 1 or 2 track days than 30K of street use. You will crack them way before you'd ever wear them out anyway.

 

[DRock]

No - HP+ are street pads, suitable for light track usage. I wouldn't turn the rotors. Just run them as they are. 30K of street use with OEM pads is nothing. You will probably put more wear on them in 1 or 2 track days than 30K of street use. You will crack them way before you'd ever wear them out anyway.

Chances of one day at the track as a beginner cracking a rotor? That's the only thing I'm worried about.

 

[DusterRT]

Beginner on street pads...slim to none if the rotors are in good shape. At first you shouldn't be driving that hard anyway, concentrate more on technique and learning the line. When you get those down, the speed comes naturally..

 

[DRock]

Phew. Youmade me feel better. The track I'm running on doesn't involve too many 100+ runs down to 30mPh so I think immsafe

 

[almost heaven]

I'd use some hand-work some fine sandpaper on the rotors to take off the prior pad transfer, just as insurance.

 

[argonaut]

Chances of one day at the track as a beginner cracking a rotor? That's the only thing I'm worried about.

I didn't mean to imply you'd crack them in one day. There seemed to be some concern about wearing out the rotors, as in wearing down the metal, i.e. the rotor becoming too thin. What I'm saying is that won't happen, or at least I have never seen it happen. With repeated track use the rotors will crack - no if, ands or buts about it. It will start off as very small spider cracks on the surface and eventually they will extend and widen to where you can catch your fingernail on them when you drag it acrosss the surface. Next step will be one side (almost always the outside) will crack all the way thru and, if you keep driving, you will feel a pronounced vibration. You should replace them when the fingernail drag test fails. When that occurs depends on the quality of the rotor, the track, the driver, the tires, the pads, etc....but it will happen. Maybe day 3....maybe day 10. Thats why track junkies always carry extra rotors.

 

[DRock]

This will just be a day event. I have an extra set of rotors coming just for track use but I'm not sure if they will be here in time. I more than plan on having an extra set with me at all times.