Cooling system issues

[obxdude018]

I couldn't find an exact answer based upon previous threads. Had an issue pop up while going to a Spartan Race. So my car seems to be boiling coolant out. I got to my destination on Saturday and steam just came rolling out from under the hood. I ran my race, put some water in the car and drove the car back, the temp never went over 195 on the way back. I get back, next day go to the store and it starts to boil it out. It's boiling it out of the cap, I replaced the cap with an OEM unit and that wasn't the issue. I am picking up a new thermostat in the morning. However, right now I am stuck between 3 solutions. Air in the system(car is spitting out really hot air), thermostat is sticking periodically or radiator is clogged. This is a DOB car, so the thermostat is kind of a pain to get to now.

 

[Department Of Boost]

I couldn't find an exact answer based upon previous threads. Had an issue pop up while going to a Spartan Race. So my car seems to be boiling coolant out. I got to my destination on Saturday and steam just came rolling out from under the hood. I ran my race, put some water in the car and drove the car back, the temp never went over 195 on the way back. I get back, next day go to the store and it starts to boil it out. It's boiling it out of the cap, I replaced the cap with an OEM unit and that wasn't the issue. I am picking up a new thermostat in the morning. However, right now I am stuck between 3 solutions. Air in the system(car is spitting out really hot air), thermostat is sticking periodically or radiator is clogged. This is a DOB car, so the thermostat is kind of a pain to get to now.

Email me. [email protected].

 

[05gtowner]

I had similar issues and replaced the radiator, thermostat and water pump for about $175 total and my problems went away. I am going to get a 2013 Gt500 fan and install that soon too for a little more insurance. Mine is all stock but I run the car very hard.

 

[irishpwr46]

check your fan relays under the BEC. it starts as an intermittent problem before they crap out totally


http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=106834&highlight=fan+relay

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2252415#post2252415

 

[obxdude018]

So today, had some issues with it boiling over again. I noticed that the low speed fan is not coming on, which does not help my situation out. So for now I turned the high speed fan down to turn on at 192. Drove the car for ~60 miles, did not have a boiling problem at all. The temp would bounce around between 184-192. Gonna look into why the low speed isn't working, guessing either the common burnt BEC terminal or a burnt out wire. However I don't know if this is the fix for the boiling problem.

 

[702GT]

You may have a combination of problems. First, obviously your low speed fan. That should be the first obvious fix. The high speed should be for A/C on condition and "OMG it's really hot out and I'm idling in traffic" conditions.

Second, if you are running straight water, this is OK for >summer<. However, if the coolant system is sealed, it will be under pressure (roughly 14psi). This pressure increases the boiling point of water. Water under atmosphere at sea level boils at 212. Add 14psi in a contained coolant system, it increases the boiling point to 246 (roughly).

That said, there are 2 parts to this other issue:

#1 - Air in the system. Any air in the system will cause steam pockets, which will radically increase the pressure in the system as it flashes, causing your radiator safety measures to pop and expel the excess pressure. The system must be purged.

#2 - The system must be sealed. Any leaky hoses, gaskets, or other coolant hardware (tanks, radiators, ect.,) will deplete the system of pressure, and lower the boiling point of your coolant system, which could allow water in hot spots to flash to steam, and you are back to referring to #1.

That's as far as that issue goes.

There could be other contributors, as you mentioned any clogs in the coolant system will cause flow to slow, thereby creating an overheating condition. Fans not removing enough heat. Water pump not flowing proper gpm. T-Stat not functioning properly (for street cars, I prefer 180-195 T-stats, 160-180 for Race)

Hope any of this helps. Also, I know there's voodoo surrounding the concept of running coolant additives, but I run Redline Water Wetter, and IMO I think it makes enough difference that it's worth running. I run a 70/30 mix of distilled water/coolant, and a bottle of additive. I run the procharger slim fan on OEM radiator with a 180 T-stat, I've never been above 206 with the A/C blasting stuck in Vegas Strip traffic while it's 112*. IMO that's the worst my car has faced for bad heat conditions. I'm usually 190 no AC/198 with AC in the summer. This summer has been particularly hot lol.

 

[wht67]

I recently was having an issue with coolant escaping. It was not overheating and I have a 160 degree thermostat (came with the Whipple kit) and a Fluidyne 3 row radiator. The fan was working fine so after some google fu some people were talking about caps getting weak. The cap I had was the original so I figure WTH and bought a new factory coolant tank cap. Now no more coolant residue on my pretty powder coated Moroso overflow tank. I am still getting the GT500 fan eventually because Texas.

 

[Pentalab]

So today, had some issues with it boiling over again. I noticed that the low speed fan is not coming on, which does not help my situation out. So for now I turned the high speed fan down to turn on at 192. Drove the car for ~60 miles, did not have a boiling problem at all. The temp would bounce around between 184-192. Gonna look into why the low speed isn't working, guessing either the common burnt BEC terminal or a burnt out wire. However I don't know if this is the fix for the boiling problem.

The "low speed" fan is just a resistor in series with the 14 vdc... + a relay that shorts out the resistor when on high speed. If the resistor has gone open, ur low speed fan will not work at all. Once the high speed associated relay operates, it will shunt the open resistor....and u will get the full 14.4 vdc on the fan...which is high speed mode.

Vacuum fill the coolant for the eng rad. Then u are guaranteed you will have no air in the system. ( If a blower is used with the usual IC /HE /pump /De-gas, then vac fill that too. )