cornering noob

pieperz06

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well i have had my s197 for a while now and i have a few engine mods and LCA's and anti squats. i am wanting to make my car more of a corner carver and i am not sure at all what the best thing to do first is i was thinking about sway bars but i don't know if there is some thing better to do first. i already have an adj p/h bar on the list of things to get next so i can get that off the list. i am also wondering what is the best way to start going to track day while having 0 experence with it. thanks
 

irishpwr46

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coil overs are great if youre gonna get serious about the racing. check out the sponsors section and see who has them
 

alloy6ix

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Welcome



Now Post Nudes of Wife, Girlfriend and/or HOT MOM



OR ELSE!!!!!!

He's not that new here... lol, but I do concur. haha. But OP, get a kit if you're looking to get some suspension mods that can benefit your goal. FRPP, steeda, griggs racing, roush... just to name a few. Look them up. But FWIW, look up other threads regarding suspension. Someone on here has probably got EXACTLY what you want, but only difference is they have more cash on hand than you and I. Or at least me.. :idea:
 

Arkady001

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While the suspension 'kits' available are more than adequate for most applications, a little more money spent can get you much better quality parts.

My sig details the stuff I sourced in the US for about $2200... (I'm over in Europe, so I researched this a LOT before I pulled the trigger as finding out tht I bought the wrong stuff would have been way expensive!)
Plus there are plenty of serious racers on here who will no chime in, but a good suspension set-up seemed to me the first thing to address in terms of a street car - next up will be power-adders...but get the thing handling right to begin with...

A good place to start is Sam Strano - he races Auto-X and has a good understanding of suspension - not only that he'd rather talk to you on the phone and discuss what you actually need, rather than just sell you stuff blind...
http://www.stranoparts.com/
Plus he carries most stuff you could ever want or need, suspension-wise...
 

Rangersfan

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I'm going to be a little different than most vendors and say this: If you have no experience at all, I would suggest just going out and trying it first without going crazy buying stuff first. Get to know your car and your abilities first, and see what the others guys have for their setups, and get some ideas.

Coilovers might be a little much for your budget, but a set of springs, swaybars, and LCA's are a good starting point. The best thing to look at first is a good set of brake pads, that's the biggest thing to have. Brakes that can last a whole session are a whole lot better than a fancy coilover setup.
 

RedMosesSC

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Coil overs are great for racing, when you NEED the fine adjustability to gain that extra 1/10th a second in your lap time, Much like like 14" 6 piston brakes, its nice to have but its an overkill for the street.

The most important part of your Suspension is the Springs and they work directly with the Shocks/Struts, these need to be changed together, or else youll get the lok and not the performance.

Sway bars help the car stay flat when turning hard but they are depending on the spring/shocks combo to do their job, if you plan on runnnig your car hard, i would also suggest you get better mounting hardware for your sway bars, billet is generally strongest and most light weight.

Upper control arms and the UCA mount will help your car put the power to the ground better, especially in a drag race situation.

Panhard bard and panhard brace reinforce the rear end suspension, 80% of S197's require them because one wheel will stick out farther than the other when you lower the car, the adjustability will compensate for it.

Tie Rods (Bumpsteer Kit) and Ball joints will help correct the suspension geometry that was upset by lowering the car, although these are not a MUST, they will make your car track straight and not veer off when you hit bumps. Camber plates will allow you to fine tune the negative camber on your front wheels, more negative camber gives you better bit when turning as you wheel will be angled IN on the front but it will chew through your tires much faster and unevenly, the trick is to find the happy medium for your driving style.

Suspension components work in harmony, if you change one thing you disrupt another, so its best to do everything in one shot and then get an alignment. Like Arkady said, it will cost about $2 Grand in parts but you will be able to hang with the Euro guys when it comes to turns. Wider and lower profile tires will make a huige difference as they are the only part of the car that actually touches the ground.

Hope that helps but you got a lot of research to do.
 

DusterRT

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I'm going to be a little different than most vendors and say this: If you have no experience at all, I would suggest just going out and trying it first without going crazy buying stuff first. Get to know your car and your abilities first, and see what the others guys have for their setups, and get some ideas.


Yep..if you're short on cash, just run it like it is. Track days aren't cheap but Dear Lord Baby Jesus are they fun; but all too many guys get caught up modifying their cars and have no cash left for the track days they built them for. The best, most cost-effective mod you can make right now is a good set of tires, which sooner or later you will NEED anyway (versus mods which definitely fall into the WANT category since you're not racing).



Coil overs are great for racing, when you NEED the fine adjustability to gain that extra 1/10th a second in your lap time, Much like like 14" 6 piston brakes, its nice to have but its an overkill for the street.


At a bare minimum you're going to want to flush out your brakes with some high temp brake fluid though. Some org's won't let you on the track without it, and for good reason..


Sway bars help the car stay flat when turning hard but they are depending on the spring/shocks combo to do their job, if you plan on runnnig your car hard, i would also suggest you get better mounting hardware for your sway bars, billet is generally strongest and most light weight.
It's debatable but I don't feel aftermarket sway bars are necessary with a good spring/strut combo. We get a lot of body roll from our soft stock suspensions, not so much the sway bars. In fact some guys have swapped in V6 front sway bars so they'd probably argue they can be detrimental. As for hardware, I have personally had no issues with my stock stuff. A noob should be concentrating on technique and driving the line more than running 10/10ths anyway so again the upgraded hardware is a waste, for now at least.


Panhard bard and panhard brace reinforce the rear end suspension, 80% of S197's require them because one wheel will stick out farther than the other when you lower the car, the adjustability will compensate for it.
Panhard brace is one of those things I think a lot of people buy just because they're available and they're going to be working under there anyway (a "Might as well, won't hurt anything" mod). I've never seen any sort of failure relating to the stock brace.


Tie Rods (Bumpsteer Kit) and Ball joints will help correct the suspension geometry that was upset by lowering the car, although these are not a MUST, they will make your car track straight and not veer off when you hit bumps. Camber plates will allow you to fine tune the negative camber on your front wheels, more negative camber gives you better bit when turning as you wheel will be angled IN on the front but it will chew through your tires much faster and unevenly, the trick is to find the happy medium for your driving style.
Bumpsteer kit and the extended ball joints are nice but again not really required for the new guy. Well actually that's just speculation as I don't have them..but IMO bump steer isn't bad enough to warrant them for somone on a budget just getting started. Camber plates are nice but camber bolts will get the job done for a fraction of the cost.
 

Arkady001

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...Like Arkady said, it will cost about $2 Grand in parts but you will be able to hang with the Euro guys when it comes to turns...

It's true - I spent 45 minutes yesterday with a modded VW Golf GTi trying to stay with me around some of the Sauerland's more serious mountain twisties...I got the impression he was local and might know the roads better than I did, but nowhere did he look like he was able to get anywhere near to passing me...on the few occasions that he would have been able to outcorner me (2nd gear multiple hairpins) given his shorter wheelbase and lighter body-weight, I was able to outrun him to the next bend... I wouldn't say it's BMW-M3 class, but it's close...

Before I did the suspension on this car, I hated it - it was every European nightmare horror-story and xenophobic US-auto preconception I'd heard about come true...what I didn't realise is that you have to find the right upgrades to make this car do what you want it to do - it's a blank canvas...it's up to you to fill in the colours...
 

Arkady001

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I thought you had some LCAs with your set up too Mr Arkady. No?

Nope - just what's on my sig...
I nearly went all-out and bought everything under the sun (since I could afford it at the time, why skimp on parts?), but after chatting with Sam Strano who sold me the stuff, we decided that I didn't really need them...I know I sound like a schill for the guy, but I can't recommend him enough...

What I will be buying next is the CHE K-Member brace and torque limiters...as I've been locked out of third a couple of times at WOT now and it's bloody annoying...stupidly cheap at about $150 for the parts...
 

RedMosesSC

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What I will be buying next is the CHE K-Member brace and torque limiters...as I've been locked out of third a couple of times at WOT now and it's bloody annoying...stupidly cheap at about $150 for the parts...


I isntalled that CHE K-memebr brace about a month ago and its great, its cheap and it makes a difference, the drive train on these cars flex way too, this helps a lot.

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...mber-brace-torque-links-installed-w-pics.html

Arkady, I would def recomned LCA's, are not experiencing wheel hop? the more power mods you do, the worse the hop becomes.
 

DusterRT

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I personally would recommend adjustable LCA's if you're going to run LCA relocation brackets. My axle was shifted around after I installed my CHE brackets; I have a 5/8" difference from side to side (I had both LCA's adjusted to identical lengths and getting the 2nd bracket on without adjusting the control arm was a bear, which is what led me to check it; plus it was visibly off once it was on the ground!).
 

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