Driveshaft - transmission - u-joint angle ?

GriffX

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Mine starts faintly at 65 and between 70 and 80 it's worst then drops to nothing past 80.
That is similar to my rubber modification where I also have noises 60 up to 80, I filled the outer pockets with SBR rubber. You can see it on my 2nd picture with the spacer, still way to loud.
You can remove the 2-piece DS without removing the exhaust, not sure if this is possible with the one piece. An impact tool is very helpful. I think you can do it with car on 4 jack stands, you get fun somewhere else.
If you want to modify the rubber you need a welder for 4 tack welds, to remove the DS a 12 mm 12pt socket, 10 mm and 13 mm hex with some extensions, blue loctite. In general it is easy to remove it.
I think to lower the angle is the best method, it will reduce the resonance amplitudes.
 

GriffX

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If that's yours on the right picture it looks to be already modified with a different bracket, possibly a different brand from the one in the YT video I posted or would it be possible the whole driveshaft has been changed? The rubber looks compressed more on yours than the one on the left and you say there's more play in yours? I cant check mine ATM but from memory its the same as the one on the left which I thought was quite soft when I had it off last year . Sorry I also didn't realise Gladams had already recommended the retrofit prop mount I mentioned earlier. My suggestion would be to put a rubber washer between the underside floor and the DS mount to see if the breaks the acoustics travelling. If there's excessive play run a heavy bead of mastic on the bottom bracket giving it a day or so to dry (depending on Temp) and bolt it on again. This should tighten up the play in the rubber. Maybe that might make a difference.
I'm the first owner of the car, so it is the original DS and you are right, I already modified the rubber and filled the outer pockets with rubber, that changed the sharp unbearable resonance at 67-69 to a broader noise 60-80 mph, not so annoying but still too loud.
A rubber washer ist not possible, because you need something to bolt on, you must change the bolt to similar set-up like in the JXB video. If the rubber is too stiff you will get a higher force on the u-joint needle bearings at low speed with high torque, find some balance is the key. In general that rubber washer set-up like JBX is a good way for that too.

The unknown fault could also be a real weight imbalance of the shaft but that is a lot of work to find this.
 

brasil

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...JXB says in their Installation Video, that 05-10 Cars do not use the factory washer between the carrier bracket and the body/tunnel.. 2010 to2014 cars should use the spacer/washer.. together with the JXB carrier bracket. So the 2012 Mustang should have the spacer/wsher.... or do I miss something here ?
 

GriffX

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...JXB says in their Installation Video, that 05-10 Cars do not use the factory washer between the carrier bracket and the body/tunnel.. 2010 to2014 cars should use the spacer/washer.. together with the JXB carrier bracket. So the 2012 Mustang should have the spacer/wsher.... or do I miss something here ?
Yes, but no idea why JXB makes this difference. What I know that there are 2 different versions of the carrier bearing bracket used. A U shaped one and a flat type. I have the flat type with 1.5 cm thick aluminum spacers.
I will change them now to a thin aluminum washer (it is necessary to protect the thread insert, JXB does similar). When I did this I will post some pics. With the thin washer I have still 2.3 degree at the U-joint (2.8 before).
 

brasil

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...about 2005 -10 and 10 to 2014 cars. Perhaps the Coyote /Transmission combo is different from the Modular /transmission combo ? Is the 2010up transmission mount different from the 05 to 10
mount ?

Was the car "quiet" all the last years ? If so... there are two possibilities ( in my opinion ) Motor /Tranny mounts shot...or the center bearing itself /the rubber bracket.
 

GriffX

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I finally fixed it. The driveshaft is quiet at Autobahn speed. I reversed the spacers leading to 0.5 degree lower U-joint angle and added a 3 mm rubber stripe in the U (green mark) to take out the slag in the rubber.
1778935438245.png

1778935636852.png
 

brasil

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....the washer goes between the support /bracket and the tunnel . What you did, changes the angles, but I think the center bearing support is shot. So , the fix you made is a band aid. In the near future the noise will be back - sad but true.
 

GriffX

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but I think the center bearing support is shot. So , the fix you made is a band aid. In the near future the noise will be back - sad but true.
No, not at all. The bearing is totally quite and the rubber has no cracks. The Ford spec for the angle is between 1 and 3 degree, I had 2.8 and now 2.3 which means less vibration will be induced. The problem is, that there are two different versions out there, one with a more flat upper metal bracket which doesn't clamp the rubber as tight as the one with the more U shaped bracket. With the additional rubber I put inside I made the whole set-up more tight.
 

brasil

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..@ GriffX I did not know ,that there are two different center- bearing supports.. interesting
 

GriffX

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..@ GriffX I did not know ,that there are two different center- bearing supports.. interesting
On page one, the picture with the red circles. The left has a deeper U shaped form. On the flat type I could push the shaft 5 mm up without any resistance from the rubber. My guess is that this was a wrong production?
 

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