Gas in Vacuum Line

[hollywood54]

well got 8 of the 10 ARP studs out but the other two ended up stripping them. Tried to use vise grips while i was using the allen and a breaker bar and ended up stripping them trying that. Only thing I can think of next is cutting th bolts but fucks me when I have to get the end out of the block

 

[BruceH]

There are sockets made to get nuts and bolt heads out without drilling. Most hardware stores sell them. Harbor frieght does too.

They look like this. I'm fairly certain Sears sells something similar.

 

[hollywood54]

I got the nut off. Its the stud themself. I have turned the allen in it and striped the stud

 

[05moneypit]

Try using a 5mm allen socket. Drive it into the end of the stud. The standard size is 3/16" so the 5mm may be tight enough. If that is to loose try a 7/32"

I would pull the engine or at least try to remove the motor mounts and lower it before I even considered cutting the stud.

Lee

 

[BruceH]

I got the nut off. Its the stud themself. I have turned the allen in it and striped the stud

I understand that. Doesn't the stud have a hex on the top that this type of removal tool could be used with? You can also try double nutting if there is enough room and turning the nuts.

On a side note the studs shouldn't be torqued into the block, let me guess, Fastlane strikes again?

Edit: A starbit or similar may also be able to be driven into the stripped out hex.

 

[hollywood54]

ya not enough room for double nut and no it dosn't have anything at the end smooth all the way up. 5mm is lose going to try to tap a 7/32 in to it

 

[hollywood54]

while I am struggling with this ya have any good, no great engine builders off the top of your head? I dont care where they are not going to keep myself lock in to a local place already seen what that gets me. but figured I have a long block built if the pistons and cylinder walls are fucked.

 

[hollywood54]

Hammered it and same result

more then likely sent fron Dairy Queen mmmmm blizzards

 

[BruceH]

I went back and looked at your pics. If all else fails you could try to get some slimmer nuts for a double nut. I've always used Ford tty hardware so I needed a picture of what the stud end looked like.

Have you considered doing your own assembly work? It's not that bad, the hard part is finding a good machine shop to do the machining correctly.

 

[hollywood54]

well I did my first motor and it leaked all over the place. my problem is ill start something then get called to go out of town for work and when I get back I have forgotten where I have been. Most of the time I would check things off the list as I went but still miss things when I got back home.

 

[05moneypit]

Well that sucks....was the shop one of places that thinks you have to Loctite studs in? It would be really hard to try and double nut them....don't think there is enough room. Which two studs can you not get out? If you could even get one of them out you may be able to turn the head a little and get it to clear.

You are working the drivers side....correct?

 

[hollywood54]

There both at the bottom if you go from the front to fire wall its 2 and 4. Ya I was hopping for both but prying for one. well I can get the head up high enough to slide my camera under the head so Im going to go take some video and pictures of each cylinder since getting this damn head off has become harder then moving a mountain.

Ya driver side

 

[hollywood54]

Let me know what yall think. Im seeing damage on 3 out of the 4 pistons, and not seeing much on the wall

Cylinder 5

Cylinder 6

Cylinder 7

Cylinder 8

Video

 

[05moneypit]

This is my opinion since I went through this myself 3 years ago.

Most likely the pistons are still useable.....BUT and this is a BIG BUT. It is possible from the valve to piston contact that the top ring land got smashed and if that is the case the ring will stick and never seal again... So with that said there is really no way of knowing without actually pulling those pistons out and checking them.

You are at the point that the engine needs to come out anyway since you can't get the head off.

Really sucks man...I feel for ya....cause I have been there.

Lee

 

[05stroker]

If there are no cracks or holes in those pistons I would remove the heads and clean those pistons up with a file and rebuild the heads. The marks don't look that hard from the pics.

The correct thing to do would to pull them out and replace them though. That would need to be your call.

 

[hollywood54]

Ya im at that point and this will be the 5th motor now #1 stock went up at the track. #2 My build that didnt work out to good and a transmission shop just cranking and cranking on the motor when it wasnt primed trashing a couple of rings. 3# fastlane build lifts driver side head on there dyno and then this is #4 so here comes lucky #5 I hope its lucky because I cant do a #6 lol

 

[05stroker]

Ya im at that point and this will be the 5th motor now #1 stock went up at the track. #2 My build that didnt work out to good and a transmission shop just cranking and cranking on the motor when it wasnt primed trashing a couple of rings. 3# fastlane build lifts driver side head on there dyno and then this is #4 so here comes lucky #5 I hope its lucky because I cant do a #6 lol

Ya, you just passed me...

 

[hollywood54]

Well at least thats one thing I can say I pass you at lol

 

[skwerl]

Sorry to hear of your troubles. I'm not an engine builder and all these stories scare the crap out of me, because I also have horrible luck hiring out work. At this point I'm just waiting for Ford Racing to release the new 46X Aluminator stroker. I'd rather pay a few more dollars and get a complete sealed motor to drop in the car rather than dealing with the local shops and hoping they get it right. You don't hear about FRPP motors being bad right out of the crate.

 

[lito]

Pistons should not be an issue, actually bearings worry me more.