GT500 rear control arms -- hardware??

[wusthof]

Hey guys, I have a set of GT500 rear control arms, but I have no Hardware with them. Do I have to use the funky OEM hardware (expensive af!), or can I just get a regular set of GT bolts and nuts. Tia guys

 

[Forty61]

Can you not just reuse the hardware when you pull the old ones?

 

[JC SSP]

Yeah factory ones are torque to yield and not reusable… supposedly lol

 

[wusthof]

I'm not reusing mine. Bushings are fkd, which the bolts are probably well. These got damn bolts and funky nuts are like $160!!! Anyone!!!!!???? Lol

 

[JC SSP]

I went to my local machine shop/welding company. He got me some grade 8 bolts and I reused the locking washers from the factory. Don’t remember how much but it was cheap.

 

[Forty61]

Yeah factory ones are torque to yield and not reusable… supposedly lol

Really? Interesting. I guess I just assumed they weren’t TTY bolts for something like that.

 

[JC SSP]

Many have reused them, I personally got new bolts. That’s just me.

 

[pass1over]

I reused my OEM bolts when I installed my Steeda billet lower arms 10 years and 180,000 miles ago. I couldn't tell you how many time's they've been off and on the car and they stay nice and tight. I would just reuse the original bolts. Bolts don't really "wear out" like rubber bushings do.

I went to my local machine shop/welding company. He got me some grade 8 bolts and I reused the locking washers from the factory. Don’t remember how much but it was cheap.

This car uses metric hardware, you would be getting class 10.9 bolts, not grade 8. You can just use a regular class 10.9 metric bolt you can get at any hardware store, as long as it's the correct length, diameter and thread pitch.

 

[GlassTop09]

I'm not reusing mine. Bushings are fkd, which the bolts are probably well. These got damn bolts and funky nuts are like $160!!! Anyone!!!!!???? Lol

Just a suggestion when installing these......whatever hardware you use to bolt these up, use some anti-seize & apply it to the bolt shanks before installing these. This will keep these bolt shanks from getting stuck in the LCA bushing inner metal sleeves from rust formation over time.....especially the unibody end where access room to remove a stuck bolt is limited.
If you ever have to remove these LCA's at the unibody end & have to fight a stuck bolt out of the LCA bushing......you'll understand.

Yeah, Ford really loves their OEM component hardware........

Hope this helps.

 

[bambam 06]

Every bolt, nut and washer in my suspension is a grade 8, they are stronger than OEM and will not rust.

 

[pass1over]

Every bolt, nut and washer in my suspension is a grade 8, they are stronger than OEM and will not rust.

metric bolts are not grade 8, they are class 10.9, 8.8 etc.
They have essentially the same tensile strength, but metric bolts are not categorized by grades.

I have some fractional bolts in my suspension ( rear sway bar links, 3rd member housing side, etc) because it was a tighter fit than the equivalent metric bolt. But all of the OEM hardware is metric

also, I'm not saying you did bambam, but don't use stainless for suspension bolts. Stainless bolts are much weaker than a class 10.9 bolt.

 

[JC SSP]

I will default to the bolt experts. I said grade 8 because the machine shop that I bought them from said they were good for suspension and grade 8 quality. Don’t know if they are 9, 10 or 11 metric or standard? I just know they have been on both cars for close to 10 years and no issues with my suspension.

I am sure that stock bolts work well too, I just didn’t want an issue with my suspension.

 

[bambam 06]

metric bolts are not grade 8, they are class 10.9, 8.8 etc.
They have essentially the same tensile strength, but metric bolts are not categorized by grades.

I have some fractional bolts in my suspension ( rear sway bar links, 3rd member housing side, etc) because it was a tighter fit than the equivalent metric bolt. But all of the OEM hardware is metric

also, I'm not saying you did bambam, but don't use stainless for suspension bolts. Stainless bolts are much weaker than a class 10.9 bolt.

The only place i use SS bolts are inside the cabin, around the radiator and such.

 

[wusthof]

Well, I should be able to at least re use the old nuts, or should I replace em? Car has 200k and the bushings have been fkd for 5 months.......fkd like there's play in the axle fkd. Thats why i would think the stock bolts would be screwed as well because of the play it has. Not very nice to drive I tell ya!

 

[Forty61]

Well, I should be able to at least re use the old nuts, or should I replace em? Car has 200k and the bushings have been fkd for 5 months.......fkd like there's play in the axle fkd. Thats why i would think the stock bolts would be screwed as well because of the play it has. Not very nice to drive I tell ya!

If you have the liberty of time you could pull the old ones first and make a decision then. If you don’t have that option just buy new everything to cover your bases.

 

[Robert Larimer]

I'm not reusing mine. Bushings are fkd, which the bolts are probably well. These got damn bolts and funky nuts are like $160!!! Anyone!!!!!???? Lol

UPR has a set of bolts for $25. They just have plain nuts though.

05-14 Ford Mustang Rear Lower Control Arm Grade 10.9 Bolt Kit

https://www.uprproducts.com/05-14-ford-mustang-rear-lower-control-arm-grade-10-9-bolt-kit/

 

[wusthof]

I saw them, but being in Canada, they wouldn't be here in time for my jobber to do. I went to another dealer closer to me. $40 for the bolts and I'll reuse the nuts. At least i know they're the proper ones. I've also read, 130ft/lbs? Thx a bunch guys, you're the best!!!

 

[wusthof]

Welp, finally got em in and damn, the bushings were REALLY fucked. Anyhoo, it looked like I could have used the old bolts even tho they have 200k on em. Thx to everyone. Much gooder now!!

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

Ive put 1100 rwhp thru my stock bolts that have been off and on multiple times lol. Stock ones say 10.9 so definitely not tty.