We already told you those 55D springs are going to suck.
How do you dampen the rebound? Do you just have to absorb it all in bump so there is little rebound left? I see where it says your system can monitor and adjust psi on the fly, but unless it creates suction on rebound, I have a hard time seeing that dampen good. What is your target? Corner-Carver section on here isn't about being able to slam your car when you park it and then raise it back up when you're ready to go (although that is neat). The one thing I do see being easy is corner-weighting. Just sit in the car and push buttons lol.
Doesn't that mess w/ the rear geometry, going up and down like that?Not really sure what you are trying to get at, but an air bag is nothing more than a progressive rate spring. Rebound damping is achieved through adjustment knobs just like you would find on a high end set of coil-overs. Our struts are 30 damping adjustable so you can fine tune the ride quality and handling performance to your liking. Our company car see's regular track use and will hold it's own against any coil-over equipped Mustang. Our systems are not designed just to be "neat" our kits are designed to be beat up at the track, then drive home in comfort. Trust me I feel right at home in the corner carving section!
Check out some of our track videos
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ysvNlhxGBiI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f5SHzgaMrBI
Let me know if you have any questions
I'm just using them to get throught the winter. They will be easy to swap out in the spring.We already told you those 55D springs are going to suck.
Doesn't that mess w/ the rear geometry, going up and down like that?
So they go up and down, and firmness is adjusatable as well?
Not really sure what you are trying to get at, but an air bag is nothing more than a progressive rate spring. Rebound damping is achieved through adjustment knobs just like you would find on a high end set of coil-overs. Our struts are 30 damping adjustable so you can fine tune the ride quality and handling performance to your liking. Our company car see's regular track use and will hold it's own against any coil-over equipped Mustang. Our systems are not designed just to be "neat" our kits are designed to be beat up at the track, then drive home in comfort. Trust me I feel right at home in the corner carving section!
Check out some of our track videos
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ysvNlhxGBiI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f5SHzgaMrBI
Let me know if you have any questions
Thats kind of contradictory to how these cars are designed. Unless you have a set height that all performance driving will be done at, and the rest of the height settings are just for show. Which I'm sure would work fine for some people. But I would like an exlanation of how the car can be slammed w/o changing pinion angle, etc.It does not mess with the rear geometry at all. We still run the stock panhard bar on our car with out any issue.
Yes height and firmness are both adjustable. You can drive the car low when you want and push a button to clear speed bumps. You can set the ride height to be a little higher in the winter, then go to a lower ride height in the summer.
I beg to differ. Raising and lowering the car will change the rear lower control arm angles, which most assuredly affects handling. it also changes the bump steer characteristics up front.
Dont you want a flat controll arm angle?
Custom off-set, I hope they fit. I saw them test-fitted on 2 cars, before I bought them.
I want to try running them, and I'll share my experience w/ all of you once I do.
I might go and test fit them soon, just to sure before I buy 600 bucks worthof tires.
Does anybody think that I'll have any adverse handeling characteristics by using the soft 55D spring in combination w/ the P springs, on my winter setup?
On the sway-bar which holes are full soft?
Any tips for installing the Yellows on the front? I'm thinking about doing it myself. The swaybars seem pretty straighforward, as well as the Panhard and the rear shocks.
What height and strenght jack-stands are good for these cars? Jack?
I read somewhere that the Steeda adjustable UCA loosens up, is that an issue I should be aware of before buying the LCA, Brackets, and UCA from steeda? My idea was to go w/ the Non-adjustable Lca, bracket and adjustable UCA.
Back to your questions.
I wouldn't mix spring setes now knowing their specs. I suspect the handling might get strange. I'd wait & do it right.
For installing the front struts, it should be pretty straightforward. You will need a spring compressor, which you should be able to borrow at the local auto parts store. Beware of the strut mounts--they are apparently really touchy & can fall apart on you, do some searches on the forum about that. I'm going off many posts I've read as I have not yet lowered.
Any normal floor jack & jack stand should work fine. I'm using basic Sears jackstands & a Harbor Freight floor jack & they work with no issue--though getting a good spot to lift the car can be a PITA.
It depends on how you want the car to handle. Having the control arm parallel to the ground provides a measure of roll understeer, which may make the car feel more "stable." What you don't want is having the control arms slope up towards the rear axle. That causes a ton of roll understeer and severely reduces traction.
Lowering a car will always make the control arms slope upwards towards the rear axle, and the more you lower it the worse that angle will be. So, if you have stock control arms without geometry correction, the roll steer characteristics get worse and worse the more the car is lowered.
http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_arti...ptimizing-weight-transfer-and-roll-steer.aspx
I have HD mounts(steeda).
So P springs in the front and stock rate 55D in the rear will be a problem? I though that you want a softer spring in the rear, as all of the mustangs come from the factory that way.
I beg to differ. Raising and lowering the car will change the rear lower control arm angles, which most assuredly affects handling. it also changes the bump steer characteristics up front.
My apologies. I had a misconception about your product. I thought it had no damper. I thought it was a bladder with a compressor and controller. I watched a video and read a few things, but it only mentioned that it adjusts pressure on the fly and the control display can be displayed in 500 colors and that it can show "bars" now not just "psi" so you can show your friends in Europe or whatever. I never got to that other info (until your reply). I would like to ride in a car with that suspension and check it out. I just don't know anyone with it. Sorry again for my misunderstanding about your product.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thats kind of contradictory to how these cars are designed. Unless you have a set height that all performance driving will be done at, and the rest of the height settings are just for show. Which I'm sure would work fine for some people. But I would like an exlanation of how the car can be slammed w/o changing pinion angle, etc.
Jeremy, could you expand on "30 way adjustable shocks" for me. Who builds them for you or are you doing them in house. One knob does it all then? Are you adjusting compression and rebound at the same time?
A spring is a spring, it doesn't matter if it is rod wound up in a coil or a bag of air, it will hold the car up and soak up bumps. The difference is how they react. So if shocks are important in a coil spring application, they are REALLY important with air springs.
You guys were fast around Gingerman at the Motorstate challenge, but autocross? My wife had you covered by 6 seconds in her lowered 5.0. Better practice going around those cones, we'll be back this summer and try to make up the time on the "big boy course"