How do I remove and replace the ECU/ECM Connectors on a 2005 Mustang Gt

[SpecOps13]

I'm trying to nail down a very intermittent problem. I want to break and remake the ECU/ECM connections as part of the "Last Resort" effort. Problem is happening about once a month.. Cam Position Sensor PO340. Checked and did everything else... Search's on subject reveals nothing found...

 

[SpecOps13]

Car will run fine if the check engine light is on. If flashing the engine stumbles..

 

[RavenGT]

That flashing indicates one or more cylinders are misfiring. That would set a P0300 or any combination of P0301-P0308. I would pull the codes and start there before replacing the PCM pigtails, if they are even available.

 

[SpecOps13]

Never threw a PO301 through PO308 Code and cleared up after maybe 5 seconds. Miles later it popped the check engine light on but ran fine. I just want to break and remake the PCM Connections with the battery disconnected. Sometimes that clears up an Electrical Problem caused by minor corrosion. Car has 54 K miles on it and is Garaged most of it's life. As I said this is a last ditch effort... Misfires happened at 30 MPH steady... I'm old and can't figure out how to get the Connectors loose without tearing my arms up.. Thanks for the input...

 

[Steve Waters]

Just to get this correct you want to disconnect then reconnect the ECM pig tails not completely rewire the harness ends?

 

[07 Boss]

When you say connectors your talking about the actual plugs into the side of the ecu? There should be a little grey(?) lever that swings up this will unlock and actually partially unplug the connector. When you put them back you plug them in as far as they will go and use the closing of the lever to get it them in the rest of the way.

Or

Are you asking how to repin the connectors?

I'm a little confused.

 

[SpecOps13]

Believe me this error has baffled me into trying everything...I went out this morning and had trouble reprogramming the ECM. My tuner showed an error ( locked me out on multiple attempts ). Disconnected the battery and cleaned the connections which really didn't need it. That left the computer disconnected for about 1/2 hour. When I hooked the battery up again, my X4 tuner wanted me to install my base stock tune which I did. Then it accepted my modified tune just fine. Let the car relearn the Idle settings in neutral to operating temp.. Ran the car normally for about 5 miles and all was well. Red Lined the car in 2nd and 3rd to get onto the interstate. Drove home and No Check Engine Light.

Reason that I wanted to break and remake the ECM Connectors is that with electronics that will sometimes remove possible corrosion on the pins from 15 years of being basically stagnant. 48 years of electronics experience has taught me that that in itself can be a repair. Wasn't here though... May be Fixed...

 

[Juice]

If you have fault codes in the PCM, the X4 programming attempt will FAIL, and it will prompt you to "restore to stock" first.<<< THIS IS WRONT on SCT's part. All you have to do is CLEAR DTC's before programming/flashing. Absolutely NO NEED to restore to stock. I would read the codes first before clearing them for the reflash.

You probably have an alternator starting to fail, causing the cam position sensor fault (which is false)

 

[SpecOps13]

Juice, I'm back to thinking that exact same thing. A second trip did trip the PO340 code... I had read and reset the codes prior to any of this work but thanks for the explanation about SCT. Any suggestions on a well made American Made Alternator?? Thank You...

 

[RavenGT]

Any suggestions on a well made American Made Alternator??

https://www.departmentofboost.com/product/bulletproof-denso-alternator/

 

[SpecOps13]

RavenGT Looked the Denso site over and it seems like a viable option. Thanks...
How is their shipping...

 

[thailand]

I had this exact code...bad alternator. Our cars seem to be very "voltage-sensitive".

 

[SpecOps13]

Thailand, I've found that to be very true too...

 

[Beak O Boost]

It's not a voltage issue with the alternator it's an RFI issue. They are outputting a radio frequency that interferes with sensitive electronics. Cam and crank sensor wires are twisted and are shielded to protect them from RFI but if an alternator or coil gets "too loud" its will interfere with cam and crank signals.