Lug nut problem

08nastygt

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I've been driving my car around this year with my 15in summit warrior R/Ts on the back. I do have a spacer not very big I can't remember the size of it though. My lug nuts keep coming loose on the wheels after maybe 100-150 miles. The one time it was so bad all 5 were finger lose. Any ideas what it could be? Summit lug nuts with ARP wheel studs is what I'm running on the back.
 

keeno

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Dont know why they are loosening up, but you best keep them tight or this may happen to you! Like it did me!


downsized_0624001310.jpg
 

LBSRACING

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Now I have had to go back and retorque lugs when installed with new studs after about 500 miles. What are you torquing them to? I would also try a new set of lugnuts and see if that helps.
 

08nastygt

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I'm going to about 100ft lbs which is a lot I think. But I started out at 80 and they backed off when I got to the track. I'm thinking of trying a better brand lug nut. Do you guys think the spacers have anything to do with it?
 

VTXFrank

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I've had spacers on a few cars and never had a lugnut back off of a wheel. The torque is 100ft/lbs on my car. Should be on yours too. Try cleaning the threads of the studs real good, make sure there's no dirt or rust on them. Being ARP, shouldn't be any rust anyway. But then use anti-seize on the threads. Make sure the threads in the lugnuts are also very clean. Most of the time I've fixed someones car with this problem was due to dirt/grease build up on the threads of the studs or lugnuts.
 

Marc s

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Did you press the studs in all the way? If not, the studs may be seating themselves which would cause the lugnuts to become loose.
 

frank s

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I understand 100 ft-lbs is correct for the S197s.

Way I remember it, torque readings are based on clean, dry threads on both studs and nuts, as well as a clean, dry seating interface between the nuts and wheels.

I'd try some open lugnuts to eliminate the chance that the studs are bottoming in the closed nuts. Sometimes spacers depend on the installation of longer-than-standard studs; that could be a complication.

Are the spacers "hub-centric"? If not, they might be shifting around and contributing to the loosening.
 

white05gt

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I've had spacers on a few cars and never had a lugnut back off of a wheel. The torque is 100ft/lbs on my car. Should be on yours too. Try cleaning the threads of the studs real good, make sure there's no dirt or rust on them. Being ARP, shouldn't be any rust anyway. But then use anti-seize on the threads. Make sure the threads in the lugnuts are also very clean. Most of the time I've fixed someones car with this problem was due to dirt/grease build up on the threads of the studs or lugnuts.


Why would you use anti seize on the studs?

Op, make sure after having the wheels come loose that it hasn't egged the holes. If it has, there will be metal raised around the lug holes which will not allow the wheel to sit flat against the hub and the wheel will never stay tight.
 

Entrenched

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lugs

Do these use shank style lug nuts? If so I had the same problem with summit brand lugs. I made the switch to McGards and no more problems.
 

08nastygt

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I'm going to have to take a look when I get off of work. They may take the shank lug nuts but I dont know looked like 60s would work with the way the bolt holes are. My spacers aren't hub centric they would move a lot and also I know the studs are in all the way.
 

Riptide

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It can also interfere with the proper operation of a torque wrench.
 

LBSRACING

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NEVER NEVER use anti-seize on lug nuts! It will cause the nuts to get loose.

Beg to differ worked in one shop for 3 years and they made you use it on every vehicle that the tires come off with was around 30 trucks a day. Not one lugnut ever came loose. Every truck shop I have worked in tells you to use it as well. But each their own. FYI if you don't use it on Semi rigs you will be using a torch to get the lugs off. Just my 2 cents though carry on.
 

908ssp

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It is perfectly safe to use anti seize on lug nuts. What you have to be aware is that the actual torque on the nut is slightly higher when using anti-seize than when the bolt and nut are bone dry. Not that you torque it higher but that when you torque it the same as you usually do it will actually be higher. So just don't over torque the nut. If it is recommended to use 100 foot pounds make sure you use no more than that. Also while I am on it torque specs should tell if the torque is dry or lubed most unfortunately don't so just be aware of this. This is why bolt stretch is used for critical bolts like connecting rods. A torque wrench is more than accurate enough for 99% of what we do.

Make sure your ARP studs were pulled in all the way. Make sure you haven't pulled the heads off the new studs. You might be pulling them in after driving a few miles. Make sure the spacer or wheel are not deforming under load of driving. Make sure the threads in the nuts aren't deforming or pulling they will only move so much before they fail completely. Don't over tighten.
 
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