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I finally finished installing this cage and thought I would share the write up I did, I took my sweet ass time doing it...but have a few tips....
I finally started installing the cage this weekend. I did do a few weeks of prep for this though. Here is the info on the cage:
Packaging
It came well packaged, and I had it shipped to Excessive Motorsports. Not bad for $707 shipped for a NHRA legal cage.
Prep & Paint
I allowed 36 hours between coats. Last coat had 3 days before I touched it. Its got some dirt from my hands on it.
*TIP1: When you paint it, mask off the cylinders for the front and rear bars. As you can see, I did it for the front, but not the rear. It was damn near impossible to get them off the rear after I got them on. I had to pull them off, and hit it with 3 different grit sand paper, then ultra fine steel wool on them along on the inside of the rear bars in order to allow them to slide easily over them.
Day1
Install
First step was removing all the interior. Note you do not have to take out the center console, I did because Mike@Powerhouse put a cool light that is lit when I'm running my race tune for the 4r70. However, I wanted to change the LED out for it so that is why its out now.
After removing the interior, you have to remove the stock ford support brackets. Ford one is on the left, MMS one is on the right.
You have to use washers if the clearance on the front of these is more than 1/8. I used them on mine just in case, it was pretty close.
*TIP2: Get a good chisel for this project. My car had an ass load of sound deadening material that I had to chisel away for these and for the rear bars. I used a 1 1/4 chisel and it make quick work of it.
*TIP3: Use a socket extension on these as the seat belt units always get in the way. Just made it easier.
Second step is to test fit the cage in, so you can trace around the rear two mounting plates with a sharpie. You need to trace around it so you know where to chisel the sound deadening material off. I did this and tried to leave the cage in the car, mistake. I scuffed it up pretty good and couldn't get a good position to do the chiseling. So took it out again.
Once that was done, its time to put the cage in the car, and bolt down the cage to the support brackets. I haven't bolted it down yet, but here are some more pics of it inside the car:
That is all for today, will continue again tomorrow. That will include center punching for the rear and front points and bolting it down. The rears bolt to the wheel hub, so be prepared to have the car on jack stands and remove the rear wheels.
Day 2
[Sorry for the cheap camera phone pics - will get better pics later]
Couldn't spend the whole day on this as I have family coming over for a cook out. Also taking my time. So had to to put the whole cage in, mark holes for drilling and then take it out.
First step was torquing down the support braces. The instructions say "if the holes don't line up, you may have to widen them". Well that was the case with mine. The bottom bolt, closest to the center of the car was the issue. Pissed me off and I didn't want to drill into that thick support brace.
So I started by finding an optimal bolting order, these two worked best for me...
Once I got these in, I did the other top bolt. Then after I got them in, I put a towel down and with a rubber mallet, hammered the corner down so that last bolt would clear the bolt hole.
Once I did this to both sides, I was able to get this bolt in...
Next step was to bolt the rear points in, and the front points. This was for a test fit so you can do the center punch. So here it is again in the car..
Used the center punch for the holes, and a sharpie on the front to mark it off as you have to do some chiseling again on the sound dead material. You do have to use a sharpie on the corner hole under the bar, as you can't fit the center punch under it. It's also noted in the instructions.
Next up was to drill the holes for the rear wheel hub for the rear two points. You have to take the entire cage out again for this part. But according to the directions, this is the last time you do the in/out maneuver.
I ran into a snag cause I don't have a 7/16th bit. So I did the holes with a 5/16th bit for now, so I can continue to the next step. I will hit the hardware store later today or tomorrow to get the bit.
After that you need a friend to help you. You hold the mounting plate under the wheel hub, and have someone with a sharpie fill the holes so you know where to drill. Pictures summarize this...
This is where I had to stop. I have family coming over for a cook out so have to get cleaning up, get drinks, etc. You can see above picture that once you have it marked, you drill em out.
*TIP4: When you drill these out, put them under a block of wood. I know this is obvious to some, but the instructions show them drilling on what appears to be a concrete floor. When I drilled these, at 90% of drill time, it suddenly gives and slams down. Luckily I had a block of wood under mine. Otherwise you might have had a drill bit flying across the floor.
I finally started installing the cage this weekend. I did do a few weeks of prep for this though. Here is the info on the cage:
- Maximum Motorsports 6pt Cage - S197 Mustang
- http://www.maximummotorsports.com/s...oduct_info&cPath=121_126_414&products_id=1282
- MM5RB20
- NHRA Legal
Packaging
It came well packaged, and I had it shipped to Excessive Motorsports. Not bad for $707 shipped for a NHRA legal cage.
Prep & Paint
- 2 coats primer
- 2 thin coat - satin black low sheen metal paint
- Wet sand - 800 grit sand paper
- 1 thin coat - satin black low sheen metal paint
- Wet sand - 800 grit sandpaper
- 1 thin coat - satin black low sheen metal paint
I allowed 36 hours between coats. Last coat had 3 days before I touched it. Its got some dirt from my hands on it.
*TIP1: When you paint it, mask off the cylinders for the front and rear bars. As you can see, I did it for the front, but not the rear. It was damn near impossible to get them off the rear after I got them on. I had to pull them off, and hit it with 3 different grit sand paper, then ultra fine steel wool on them along on the inside of the rear bars in order to allow them to slide easily over them.
Day1
Install
First step was removing all the interior. Note you do not have to take out the center console, I did because Mike@Powerhouse put a cool light that is lit when I'm running my race tune for the 4r70. However, I wanted to change the LED out for it so that is why its out now.
After removing the interior, you have to remove the stock ford support brackets. Ford one is on the left, MMS one is on the right.
You have to use washers if the clearance on the front of these is more than 1/8. I used them on mine just in case, it was pretty close.
*TIP2: Get a good chisel for this project. My car had an ass load of sound deadening material that I had to chisel away for these and for the rear bars. I used a 1 1/4 chisel and it make quick work of it.
*TIP3: Use a socket extension on these as the seat belt units always get in the way. Just made it easier.
Second step is to test fit the cage in, so you can trace around the rear two mounting plates with a sharpie. You need to trace around it so you know where to chisel the sound deadening material off. I did this and tried to leave the cage in the car, mistake. I scuffed it up pretty good and couldn't get a good position to do the chiseling. So took it out again.
Once that was done, its time to put the cage in the car, and bolt down the cage to the support brackets. I haven't bolted it down yet, but here are some more pics of it inside the car:
That is all for today, will continue again tomorrow. That will include center punching for the rear and front points and bolting it down. The rears bolt to the wheel hub, so be prepared to have the car on jack stands and remove the rear wheels.
Day 2
[Sorry for the cheap camera phone pics - will get better pics later]
Couldn't spend the whole day on this as I have family coming over for a cook out. Also taking my time. So had to to put the whole cage in, mark holes for drilling and then take it out.
First step was torquing down the support braces. The instructions say "if the holes don't line up, you may have to widen them". Well that was the case with mine. The bottom bolt, closest to the center of the car was the issue. Pissed me off and I didn't want to drill into that thick support brace.
So I started by finding an optimal bolting order, these two worked best for me...
Once I got these in, I did the other top bolt. Then after I got them in, I put a towel down and with a rubber mallet, hammered the corner down so that last bolt would clear the bolt hole.
Once I did this to both sides, I was able to get this bolt in...
Next step was to bolt the rear points in, and the front points. This was for a test fit so you can do the center punch. So here it is again in the car..
Used the center punch for the holes, and a sharpie on the front to mark it off as you have to do some chiseling again on the sound dead material. You do have to use a sharpie on the corner hole under the bar, as you can't fit the center punch under it. It's also noted in the instructions.
Next up was to drill the holes for the rear wheel hub for the rear two points. You have to take the entire cage out again for this part. But according to the directions, this is the last time you do the in/out maneuver.
I ran into a snag cause I don't have a 7/16th bit. So I did the holes with a 5/16th bit for now, so I can continue to the next step. I will hit the hardware store later today or tomorrow to get the bit.
After that you need a friend to help you. You hold the mounting plate under the wheel hub, and have someone with a sharpie fill the holes so you know where to drill. Pictures summarize this...
This is where I had to stop. I have family coming over for a cook out so have to get cleaning up, get drinks, etc. You can see above picture that once you have it marked, you drill em out.
*TIP4: When you drill these out, put them under a block of wood. I know this is obvious to some, but the instructions show them drilling on what appears to be a concrete floor. When I drilled these, at 90% of drill time, it suddenly gives and slams down. Luckily I had a block of wood under mine. Otherwise you might have had a drill bit flying across the floor.
....
.I can sell a snowball to an eskimo, but I leave the car stuff to the only 3 mechanics/tuner that touch my car..which is why I havent had as much as a hiccup in 3 years of ownership
