Min CCA it takes to crank our cars

matt texass

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Like it says does anyone know the the min. cca it takes to crank our cars?
 
M

Mustangretribution

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cca is a term meant for batteries if your wondering how many amps it takes to start a car, that depends on alot of diffrent things. and do you want to know how much draw on the battery in amps, or how much all together, in can take quite a bit of power to start a car.
 

matt texass

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im looking for a lightwiehgt race battery what should I look for to get my car started?
 
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The numbers on the factory battery are what ford reccomends, mainly due to maintaining battery life. You can go for a battery that produces much less amperage but you sacrifice the life of the battery, I dont have any specs in front of me to make a recomendation.

If I was use I would just get a battery relocation kit personally
 

matt texass

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battery relocation kits add weight. This battery would just be used at the track. and at 11.5 pounds thats a significant drop in front end weight. All the battery has to do is crank the car. the battery would be on a battery tender before I would go. The regular battery would be run all other times. I just have to figure out how low I can go.......
 
M

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well look at the CCA on the battery, this is the amount of power the battery produces at 32 degrees F, I think or 0 I forgot, take that number and buy a race battery that puts that much CA since I dont think you will be racing at freezing temperatures it should start your car fine, and a battery tender may extend its life.
 
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Mustangretribution

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Cranking amps (CA), also sometimes referred to as marine cranking amps (MCA), is the amount of current a battery can provide at 32 °F (0 °C). The rating is defined as the number of amperes a lead-acid battery at that temperature can deliver for 30 seconds and maintain at least 1.2 volts per cell (7.2 volts for a 12 volt battery).
Cold cranking amps (CCA) is the amount of current a battery can provide at 0 °F (−18 °C). The rating is defined as the amperage a lead-acid battery at that temperature can deliver for 30 seconds and maintain at least 1.2 volts per cell (7.2 volts for a 12-volt battery). It is a more demanding test than those at higher temperatures.
Hot cranking amps (HCA) is the amount of current a battery can provide at 80 °F (26.7 °C). The rating is defined as the amperage a lead-acid battery at that temperature can deliver for 30 seconds and maintain at least 1.2 volts per cell (7.2 volts for a 12-volt battery).
Reserve capacity minutes (RCM), also referred to as reserve capacity (RC), is a battery's ability to sustain a minimum stated electricalit is defined as the time (in minutes) that a lead-acid battery at 80 °F (27 °C) will continuously deliver 25 amperes before its voltage drops below 10.5 volts.


good ol wikipedia
 

ArtQ

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If you are looking at Odyssey batteries heres some info:
PC680
Small 680 cranking amp battery with metal jacket and SAE automotive terminals.
Also available without the metal jacket for low temperature applications.
Battery measures 3.11" wide x 7.27" long x 6.67" tall with the metal jacket and weighs 15.4 pounds.
Recognize that the reserve rating is small, so storage time with computer draw can discharge the battery in a few weeks. Ideal for Street Rods up to 5.7 liter V-8. Can be mounted in the glove box flat on its back - only 3 1/8 inch high.
  • Excellent starting battery where high reserve capacity is not required.
  • Great lightweight racing battery for shedding extra pounds.
  • Can be mounted upright or flat.
I have been running the 680 for approx 6 months and it works great.
The reserve is the key. It has gone dead on me after the car sat in the garage for 2 weeks. But for weight savings you can't go wrong. It has never let me down once fully charged and operating on a regular basis. When used as a daily driver......
They will most likely recommend the metal jacket battery and they have a very nice mount bracket for it.
 

Larry_H

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This battery would just be used at the track. and at 11.5 pounds thats a significant drop in front end weight. All the battery has to do is crank the car.


Losing 11.5 pounds from the front end of your car will net you a .001 better time slip. Thats all. If you really want to gain that, why don't you just start the car at the staging lanes right before its your turn to run and then just take the battery out of the car. Once the car is running, you don't need it.
 

craig66

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Losing 11.5 pounds from the front end of your car will net you a .001 better time slip. Thats all. If you really want to gain that, why don't you just start the car at the staging lanes right before its your turn to run and then just take the battery out of the car. Once the car is running, you don't need it.

I've been told and also have read that is not a good idea. I was told that removing the ground or lifting the positive cable on a running car can cause a voltage spike. The electronics in cars can be pretty sensitive to those spikes and can get smoked easy. I'll see if I can find that article tomorrow.
 
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I've been told and also have read that is not a good idea. I was told that removing the ground or lifting the positive cable on a running car can cause a voltage spike. The electronics in cars can be pretty sensitive to those spikes and can get smoked easy. I'll see if I can find that article tomorrow.


I was warned against such actions as well, by my auto tech teacher.
He has a point though I dont see the wieght savings as significant, but to each his own, reason I suggested the relocation kit is because it helps balance the wieght front/rear of the car
 

travelers

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If you want to see what your starter is drawing you can put a clamp on amp meter on the cable going to the starter and have someone start it. the meter will show you how much amps are being drawn. That should give you an idea what you'll need.
 

matt texass

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the battery weighs 11.5 pounds....... though I still have to see how much the stock battery weighs im sure itll be atleast 20+ pounds. I just looking at getting some of the little things to add up.
 

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