MSD 8740 Mustang COP Current Booster

[AutoXRacer]

Has anyone tested the new MSD Coil Current Booster for Modular COPs?

https://www.holley.com/products/ignition/ignition_boxes/street_and_strip/parts/8740

This is different than replacing your COPs, which have never performed for boosted applications. They work great for NA, but cause shutter/misfire in boost.

It claims to increase peak current to the COPs resulting in increased spark energy at the plug. If this is the case, this could solve the issue with the aftermarket coils not working on boosted applications.

 

[Jack F]

Looks like a solution in search of a problem.

 

[Midlife Crises]

I thinking you may not like what you find inside your timing cover if you run that 2 step feature.

 

[AutoXRacer]

When I was in search of bigger spark, I ran through the aftermarket COP issues that comes with boost. I tried all COPs at the time.

Long story short, at least with the MSD COPs, it has much larger coils that require more amperage to deliver the necessary spark in boosted applications. At least that's what came about in conversations with MSD.

In order to run the MSD coils, you would need to install their ignition modules, basically electrical boosters in order to supply the COPs with enough amperage. But the build of materials added up to a almost $2,000 project at the time.

I dropped the idea and have been running OEM COPs...

But I am now curious of this new product. It's plug and play.

I've always wanted bigger spark... it's the only thing that's not modded on the car. Lol

So I did order the kit... wondering if they are readily available with all the supply issues.

 

[AutoXRacer]

I thinking you may not like what you find inside your timing cover if you run that 2 step feature.

Nope, not running that feature...
Just want the increased spark.

 

[Midlife Crises]

Nope, not running that feature...
Just want the increased spark.

I have never read of anybody saying they have benefited from replacing the OEM coils with the two or three aftermarket offerings for our engines. Quite the opposite, don’t use this one or that one because they cause other problems or are unreliable. Surprises me there isn’t a go to monster coil high voltage zapper for the boosted crowd. Everything I have read just says close the gap to solve spark problems. Interested if that spark booster will work out.

 

[AutoXRacer]

That has been my experience too...

I tell everyone to stay away from aftermarket coils. OEM is rock solid... it's used on 1500hp motors. If it works for them, good enough for me. Lol

Since this is a different method than replacing coils, figured I'd try it...

Somebody has to test the new stuff. Lol
Or how else do we get product reviews? Lol

 

[skwerl]

Looks like a solution in search of a problem.

This. What exactly are you trying to accomplish here?

 

[AutoXRacer]

This. What exactly are you trying to accomplish here?

Skwerl, you're back!!?? What are you driving these days?

I'm back in Central Florida as of late last year.

What I'm trying to accomplish is a stronger spark with a reasonable gap.
Right now, the gap is tiny... And its forcing me to R&R plugs more frequently than I care to do.

In my opinion, the spark we are getting for our boosted setups is borderline... I would much rather have a solid stronger spark that's not sensitive to gap changes with mileage and combustion chamber anomalies.
Plus, a stronger spark would help fuel burn...

Previous to the Mustang, I have always upgraded the ignition systems in other vehicles with great results.

I also like testing new products...if it doesn't work...then its going back. lol

 

[Juice]

I dont think you can return an electrical part that was installed, worked, just not met expectation.
When you actually get down to the science of it, you need a minimum voltage to jump the spark gap. Once above that, higher voltage means very little. I was under the impression that smaller gap on the plug is not for but spark blowout due to much higher combustion pressures.

All that said, if it is truely giving a multiple spark, that is noticable based on my use of MSD A6L box. But only under something like 3000 rpms, higher rpms, there is not enough time to deliver multiple spark.

Not leagal on emission controlled vehicles.

 

[07 Boss]

What I'm trying to accomplish is a stronger spark with a reasonable gap.
Right now, the gap is tiny... And its forcing me to R&R plugs more frequently than I care to do.

In my opinion, the spark we are getting for our boosted setups is borderline... I would much rather have a solid stronger spark that's not sensitive to gap changes with mileage and combustion chamber anomalies.
Plus, a stronger spark would help fuel burn...

What kind of plugs are you running? Have you ever thought about side gapping your plugs? This is what we used to do back in the day to help unshroud the spark and get better combustion. I have not found the need to do it on our cars but I only run 11 psi. I'm actually using Accel coils. I didn't get them for performance just replacements. Anyways, haven't had any issues with them but I haven't been to the track with them either.

 

[AutoXRacer]

I dont think you can return an electrical part that was installed, worked, just not met expectation.
When you actually get down to the science of it, you need a minimum voltage to jump the spark gap. Once above that, higher voltage means very little. I was under the impression that smaller gap on the plug is not for but spark blowout due to much higher combustion pressures.

All that said, if it is truely giving a multiple spark, that is noticable based on my use of MSD A6L box. But only under something like 3000 rpms, higher rpms, there is not enough time to deliver multiple spark.

Not leagal on emission controlled vehicles.

Higher boost will need a stronger spark to jump the gap. You reduce gap to facilitate the spark jumping to the electrode as the coils do not have enough energy to jump a large gap under boost..

Basically reducing gap concentrates the spark... less air to travel through.

 

[AutoXRacer]

What kind of plugs are you running? Have you ever thought about side gapping your plugs? This is what we used to do back in the day to help unshroud the spark and get better combustion. I have not found the need to do it on our cars but I only run 11 psi. I'm actually using Accel coils. I didn't get them for performance just replacements. Anyways, haven't had any issues with them but I haven't been to the track with them either.

I run NGKs Iridium (7554) gapped at 0.025.
Never heard of side gapping.

Just researched it... very interesting.
That's where all those funky 90s plug designs came from. Lol

 

[Juice]

I can see a CDI ignition as an upgrade.

 

[skwerl]

Have you talked with Justin at VMP about this? They are always researching and developing new improvements.

I traded my 2014 Mustang in on an F150 about 2-3 years ago.

 

[AutoXRacer]

Have you talked with Justin at VMP about this? They are always researching and developing new improvements.

I traded my 2014 Mustang in on an F150 about 2-3 years ago.

Justin is hard to get in touch with these days.
Since I'm back I've wanted him to tune my car, but seems like he doesn't tune anymore. Now it's another guy... and they need the car a few days.
What happened to 2-3 hour tunes as you wait?

 

[skwerl]

The price of success I guess.

 

[AutoXRacer]

The price of success I guess.

Ugh, let's not even talk about the price of tunes!!
Holy crap!!! 3 times the price of back then... with slower service... sigh

 

[MrBhp]

So what's the issue with running a 2 step with boost? Is that a problem only with PD? I'm running a single turbo with no issues in the short term. What should I expect. I'm not going to like life with no 2 step.

 

[Midlife Crises]

So what's the issue with running a 2 step with boost? Is that a problem only with PD? I'm running a single turbo with no issues in the short term. What should I expect. I'm not going to like life with no 2 step.

I believe this damage is due to using a MSD two step too launch. Probably less than 20 hard blast offs. Notice the key way in the reluctor is wallowed out. The damper was still tight. The broken tensioner dowel fell of in my hand when I was removing the cam drive components. It was a real bear getting the screw end of that dowel out. I have read this is why a billet gear on the crank and inside the oil pump is needed.