BlueHeisenberg
Junior Member
Hi guys!
I have a Mustang 2006 v6 4.0L convertible that I have had for almost 3 years now.
A little bit before I had had it for a year, the transmission started to have some issues: the shifts were hard and you could hear a "clok" noise when that happened.
I decided to take it to a specialized American transmission mechanic (I live in Spain, and these cars are pretty rare here, so finding a mechanic who knows them is difficult). They rebuilt the transmission (3000€), but even then the "clok" sounds and hard shifts were still happening. I took the car to them many times and they adjusted the servos or something in the transmission that made the car work wonderfully with nice shifts for a while, but after driving it a bit, it just continued with the hard shifts. I told them about the servo bore wear that I found online and they just said "yeah yeah, we know what we are doing"... so after almost 2 years with the transmission not working right and with COVID in between (the "transmission guy" had a pretty bad COVID recovery), they just decided to just rebuild the whole transmission again, changing all the pads and everything (without me paying, obviously), but the problem persisted, so I'm inclined to just buy the servo bore wear kit and tell them to change it.
That's one of the issues, but that per se didn't fully affect my ability to drive the car. The problem I'm having now is an electrical issue.
I think I could have some grounding problems as first of all, at idle the car had fluctuating rpm and the lights also fluctuated, I checked the alternator and it seemed to work only sometimes, so I changed it and now the rpm is more stable, but still all the lights fluctuate when the car is on. And even though the car "works", if I step on the gas pedal more than 1/4 (or less) the car starts to hiccup and lose power.
I tried to connect a couple of AWG9 cables (the thickest I had lying around) from the casing of the alternator to the ground of the battery and the chassis ground next to the battery, but nothing...
Another thing to note that might also indicate what's wrong is that I have a bluetooth OBDII reader. If I disconnect it once I turn the contact on, the odometer changes from the actual miles value to "---------" and if I try to crank it does nothing, but as soon as I connect the OBDII it reads back the miles and I can crank the car, so maybe the OBDII dongle is doing some grounding and that's why it works?
Sorry for the long post, but I'm a little bit lost on what to do
I have a Mustang 2006 v6 4.0L convertible that I have had for almost 3 years now.
A little bit before I had had it for a year, the transmission started to have some issues: the shifts were hard and you could hear a "clok" noise when that happened.
I decided to take it to a specialized American transmission mechanic (I live in Spain, and these cars are pretty rare here, so finding a mechanic who knows them is difficult). They rebuilt the transmission (3000€), but even then the "clok" sounds and hard shifts were still happening. I took the car to them many times and they adjusted the servos or something in the transmission that made the car work wonderfully with nice shifts for a while, but after driving it a bit, it just continued with the hard shifts. I told them about the servo bore wear that I found online and they just said "yeah yeah, we know what we are doing"... so after almost 2 years with the transmission not working right and with COVID in between (the "transmission guy" had a pretty bad COVID recovery), they just decided to just rebuild the whole transmission again, changing all the pads and everything (without me paying, obviously), but the problem persisted, so I'm inclined to just buy the servo bore wear kit and tell them to change it.
That's one of the issues, but that per se didn't fully affect my ability to drive the car. The problem I'm having now is an electrical issue.
I think I could have some grounding problems as first of all, at idle the car had fluctuating rpm and the lights also fluctuated, I checked the alternator and it seemed to work only sometimes, so I changed it and now the rpm is more stable, but still all the lights fluctuate when the car is on. And even though the car "works", if I step on the gas pedal more than 1/4 (or less) the car starts to hiccup and lose power.
I tried to connect a couple of AWG9 cables (the thickest I had lying around) from the casing of the alternator to the ground of the battery and the chassis ground next to the battery, but nothing...
Another thing to note that might also indicate what's wrong is that I have a bluetooth OBDII reader. If I disconnect it once I turn the contact on, the odometer changes from the actual miles value to "---------" and if I try to crank it does nothing, but as soon as I connect the OBDII it reads back the miles and I can crank the car, so maybe the OBDII dongle is doing some grounding and that's why it works?
Sorry for the long post, but I'm a little bit lost on what to do