Need Help please weird sound/dont know whats causing the problem?

AutoXRacer

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Is there a thread that show how to install lockouts?

I need to put lockout in my new phasers, but I am afraid of releasing the spring.
I played with a phaser once and the spring released; never was able to put it back together. lol

edit:
Never mind, here you go. LOL





If you have the new phasers on already it's a little more challenging to put the lockouts in as you have 2 bolts that are under pressure from the spring. Use a C-clamp to hold the spring in position on the bolt to be removed and then take a bolt and thread it in from the front side, no you can remove the C-Clamp and rotate the cover to install the lockout. Then after you close the cover you can start the bolt and put the C-Clamp back on till it threads through.
Then again if you have your old phasers still around put the locks in them and leave the new ones as is for backups or if you ever want to go back to working phasers.

So is the phaser in the clip above the new or old style?
 
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Wild White Pony

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Is there a thread that show how to install lockouts?

I need to put lockout in my new phasers, but I am afraid of releasing the spring.
I played with a phaser once and the spring released; never was able to put it back together. lol

edit:
Never mind, here you go. LOL







So is the phaser in the clip above the new or old style?

That's the new one, the only thing I did different was not prying that spring with a screw driver. I just put a C-clamp on the spring where that second bolt is so the spring doesn't contract. Then I took that bolt out and screwed one of the shorter bolts back in from the front side and then remove the C-Clamp. Now you can swing the plate and put the lockout in, then reverse the C-Clamp procedure.

I just never had much luck with prying those springs, it damages the phaser really easy.

These 3 little bitty locater rivet pins are all that holds the whole front assembly onto the phaser

LmhsSjr.jpg



I also used a cam to align the plates while tightening, you really want this perfect.

bov7w4Z.jpg
 
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AutoXRacer

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Hasn't someone made solid phasers; getting rid of the spring and all the flimsy parts on it?

Man, I can't believe that front plate is held by those three pins. sigh
 

c-ro

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ok so just ordered the lock outs and a tune from blow by racing looking to drop them in on Friday hope this fixes my problem if not at least im ready for cams
 

AutoXRacer

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I guess losing the variable cam timing is not an issue?
I never read concerns about locking the cams.

I still have mixed feelings about it, but understand that if firm valve springs are used, then they over power the ability of the VCT.
 

Wild White Pony

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I guess losing the variable cam timing is not an issue?
I never read concerns about locking the cams.

I still have mixed feelings about it, but understand that if firm valve springs are used, then they over power the ability of the VCT.

I think the key is to have a really good experienced tuner to write you the tune when you lock them out if you want good drive ability. And if you have an auto make sure you have that stall matched to the proper range of the cam. I did Cams, Springs, Lockouts and a stall change this winter. Ended up doing the stall change last, you need to do it first. When I first started it up I was able to get the tune smoothed out to idle well but when I tried to drive down the street it said no... no matter what I did with the tune. Well they call that not getting on top of the cams. Converter flashes to soon when the stall is too low and your screwed. After I had the converter re-stalled to 4200 the car drove without issue and had a good tuner finish up the tune for me.
 
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AutoXRacer

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So locking out the cams makes you lose bottom-end?

I still don't quite understand the negative implications of locking the cams.
And that happens when you retard the cams 2, 4, 6, or 8 degrees...
 

Wild White Pony

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So locking out the cams makes you lose bottom-end?

I still don't quite understand the negative implications of locking the cams.
And that happens when you retard the cams 2, 4, 6, or 8 degrees...

Shouldn't be any neg's. I don't see any at least. If your putting in cams and springs that require lockouts you really not caring about low end.

I would check your cam card before retarding like your pointing out. Some cams that state lockouts required already may have that built in.
 

c-ro

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good to know I have a 3500rpm stall converter in mine
 

MikeVistaBlue06

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What weight oil are you using? Cam phasers are very sensitive to oil weight...I use 5W-20 Mobil One in mine, but not any other weight....

Just a guess, but a thicker oil may be your issue....

HTH

Mike
 

c-ro

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just got my lock outs havent got the tune yet I also need phaser bolts so I may have to wait till Monday to see if they worked or not
 

c-ro

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Lock outs are in still waiting on tune I BBR said they went to the races and are playing catch-up should have it in a day or so, install was straight forward good tip on using a clamp from Wild White Pony made my own wege tool for instal.
 

c-ro

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Still waiting on tune from BBR starting to get impatient add said 24-48hr turn around going on 5 buisness days
 

c-ro

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lock outs are in still not tuned how ever the car doesn'
t seem to have the problem anymore
 

c-ro

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car was tuned and the lock outs did the job I also turned around and sold it and got a 2004 Cobra
 

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