oil catch can leaking

[pass1over]

Where the oil catch can attaches to the valve cover on the passenger side is leaking. Is there an o ring or something I can change inside the fitting for it to seal again?

What would that part be called? I can post a pic if needed.

 

[Macman45]

Well a catch can is not a factory part so maybe contact whatever aftermarket brand made the setup. UPR, JLT etc. Probably need a new PCV hose made.

 

[pass1over]

correct, but the connection style is oem style, therefore I should be able to buy the same part that seals the breather hose. The only difference is there's a can in the middle of it instead of nothing.

Well a catch can is not a factory part so maybe contact whatever aftermarket brand made the setup. UPR, JLT etc. Probably need a new PCV hose made.

 

[Macman45]

correct, but the connection style is oem style, therefore I should be able to buy the same part that seals the breather hose. The only difference is there's a can in the middle of it instead of nothing.

some do it that way, sure. My JLT use a steel braided line with AN fittings to the valve cover and replaces the entire OEM hose.
Sounds like you got a cheap catch can that uses the factory tube and splices in. In that case, you need to order a PCV breather hose. Look up the PCV system on a parts diagram. There is no Oring or seal. It’s probably cracked plastic in there.

 

[86GT351]

Where the oil catch can attaches to the valve cover on the passenger side is leaking. Is there an o ring or something I can change inside the fitting for it to seal again?

What would that part be called? I can post a pic if needed.

message me the vin. I will see if there is a separate part number for the o ring

 

[pass1over]

some do it that way, sure. My JLT use a steel braided line with AN fittings to the valve cover and replaces the entire OEM hose.
Sounds like you got a cheap catch can that uses the factory tube and splices in. In that case, you need to order a PCV breather hose. Look up the PCV system on a parts diagram. There is no Oring or seal. It’s probably cracked plastic in there.

WRONG! lol
It does not utilize the stock breather tube. I said it uses a stock style fittings, just like your JLT does. Mines a UPR catch can, and it has fancy an braided line just like yours.

I was able to replace the o-rings (yes there are 2 on each side) and it leaks no more! Might want to check that diagram again. Appreciate your help though.

 

[pass1over]

message me the vin. I will see if there is a separate part number for the o ring

I got them replaced. Thank you sir!

 

[Macman45]

WRONG! lol

Lol alright dude. Never had a picture no idea what you did to your car. Glad you got it

 

[Cum Grano Salis]

Those not complicated, vacuum created there to pull in crankcase fumes and oil mist from crankcase depths to reburn at high speeds. So install Ford OEM PCV valve and connect catch can hose input to that. If I had to of done complete replacement of everything, would still be in Stone Age waiting on parts.

See many also put oil catch cans on fresh air intake to crankcase,(WHAT?) yes they make those too. This is from same inlet that feeds TB. I don’t understand that what-so-ever, do what you please!

So if hoses/fittings 2 different dia. usually 1 hose say for example can be fitted into another size. Drop of super G, will not pull apart. Try not to profit somebody’s prior patented screwups, do your own and many times superior to original idea intended. Braided lines for vacuum, NO for visual and price jackup only. Those used for fuel and Nitrous dealing with high pressure endurance… my findings only.

 

[Midlife Crises]

This is the best crank vent system I have tried. Moroso dual inlet can mounted on the firewall. It has its own filtered vent and a drain valve in the bottom. The right and left valve covers are connected to it with 3/4” fittings. There are no check valves or PCV valves involved and there is no vacuum connection to the intake system of any kind. It just vents the crank case. There are no oil leaks period. Oil is not pushed out through any seals or O rings and the intake tract is dry and clean. After a day at the drags I drain a couple Tee spoons of oily goo from the can and the vent filter is clean and dry so far. Old technology still works!

 

[crjackson]

See many also put oil catch cans on fresh air intake to crankcase,(WHAT?) yes they make those too. This is from same inlet that feeds TB. I don’t understand that what-so-ever, do what you please!

That’s primarily for boosted engines with a check-valve in the PCV line. If blow-by causes excessive crankcase pressures, they obviously can’t be vented from the PCV side while running under boost pressures. So for that reason, they’re vented through what’s normally the fresh-air intake side and drawn into the CAI to be sucked through the throttle-body.

That catch-can is a precaution, just incase excessive oil vapors are pushed into the intake while venting this pressure. It’s kind-of rare to need this on a street driven Coyote powered car, with a healthy engine, but it can and does occur in some cases (especially when dragging).

A setup like Midlife Crises handles both sides, and any blow-by gases and/or oil vapors are totally isolated and 100% eliminated from the intake. It’s win-win!

I ran a 2nd catch-can on my intake side when I first bumped my boost up to 15#’s. I checked weekly to see if any oil had entered the fresh-air tube. Once I knew without a doubt, that no oil was reaching the TB, I removed mine and sold it.

Sorry for the tangent @pass1over, my apologies.

 

[Cum Grano Salis]

That’s primarily for boosted engines with a check-valve in the PCV line. If blow-by causes excessive crankcase pressures, they obviously can’t be vented from the PCV side while running under boost pressures. So for that reason, they’re vented through what’s normally the fresh-air intake side and drawn into the CAI to be sucked through the throttle-body.

That catch-can is a precaution, just incase excessive oil vapors are pushed into the intake while venting this pressure. It’s kind-of rare to need this on a street driven Coyote powered car, with a healthy engine, but it can and does occur in some cases (especially when dragging).

A setup like Midlife Crises handles both sides, and any blow-by gases and/or oil vapors are totally isolated and 100% eliminated from the intake. It’s win-win!

I ran a 2nd catch-can on my intake side when I first bumped my boost up to 15#’s. I checked weekly to see if any oil had entered the fresh-air tube. Once I knew without a doubt, that no oil was reaching the TB, I removed mine and sold it.

Sorry for the tangent @pass1over, my apologies.

Not sure I understand CR. You’re saying catch can good idea with supercharging or turbo charging to prevent oil from getting pumped into CAI? Understandable if crankcase gets pressurized, will need a catch can gallon size. What I’ve seen is the owners are putting them on non-boosted engines just because it can be done. Photos now, never actually present.

Too if your pressurizing crankcase a lot more should be taking place other than sucking in oil I would think. Maybe oil starvation to everything? Seems pressure relief should be in place long before that occurs. But I can agree with the damned if you don’t, damned if you do… so much for the unique oil pan baffles (some other post someplace).

Afterthought- With dual venting, thought recycling crankcase impurities was a plus for oil and eliminates early contamination. Also with mileage and fuel combustion (pinging). Dragging excluded of coarse lol!

 

[86GT351]

This is the best crank vent system I have tried. Moroso dual inlet can mounted on the firewall. It has its own filtered vent and a drain valve in the bottom. The right and left valve covers are connected to it with 3/4” fittings. There are no check valves or PCV valves involved and there is no vacuum connection to the intake system of any kind. It just vents the crank case. There are no oil leaks period. Oil is not pushed out through any seals or O rings and the intake tract is dry and clean. After a day at the drags I drain a couple Tee spoons of oily goo from the can and the vent filter is clean and dry so far. Old technology still works!

View attachment 85513

Great set up. The best catch can is actually a Peterson 08-0420. Having the external breather can get very messy. Most race shops suggest the peterson now.

 

[pass1over]

This is the best crank vent system I have tried. Moroso dual inlet can mounted on the firewall. It has its own filtered vent and a drain valve in the bottom. The right and left valve covers are connected to it with 3/4” fittings. There are no check valves or PCV valves involved and there is no vacuum connection to the intake system of any kind. It just vents the crank case. There are no oil leaks period. Oil is not pushed out through any seals or O rings and the intake tract is dry and clean. After a day at the drags I drain a couple Tee spoons of oily goo from the can and the vent filter is clean and dry so far. Old technology still works!

View attachment 85513

nice setup. Looks like it resides in the OEM battery location. I don't really want to relocation my battery, but if that happens, I will definitely look into this kit.


I get a couple teaspoons out of my catch can whenever I do an oil change so it's definitely working.

 

[pass1over]

Sorry for the tangent @pass1over, my apologies.

no worries. The more information and understanding, the better!

Mines NA, but I do get a couple teaspoons out of it. Blackstone said it was one of the best/healthiest coyotes they've seen in awhile on my last oil sample check. So I'm doing something right, lol

 

[Laga]

I have separate catch cans on each side. Drivers side has PCV delete and the can has a breather on top. It does bleed oil from the breather which causes a small drip. I’m going to relocate further away from source to give oil more time to condense. Hopefully this will eliminate the drip. The passenger side is not hard mounted and sits in front of washer reservoir. It fits perfect in there and doesn’t move or rattle. Using E85 I actually get only water condensation from the passenger side. With 11 pounds of boost I get 2 tablespoons a month of both oil and water with hard driving.

 

[JC SSP]

no worries. The more information and understanding, the better!

Mines NA, but I do get a couple teaspoons out of it. Blackstone said it was one of the best/healthiest coyotes they've seen in awhile on my last oil sample check. So I'm doing something right, lol

Not to jump off topic too much... what kind of info do you get from the oil analysis? How much does it cost?

Over the years I have read several of "Bob the Oil Guys" forums, but never sent a sample in...

Also, nice bully in your sig pic.

 

[pass1over]

Not to jump off topic too much... what kind of info do you get from the oil analysis? How much does it cost?

Over the years I have read several of "Bob the Oil Guys" forums, but never sent a sample in...

Also, nice bully in your sig pic.

Thank you. She just turned 11, Pandora's the best, smart and stubborn.

This is the one I got from my mustang when I did it back in 2019. I do it on my 6.0 F550 whenever the oil gets changed. They keep all the data on one sheet so you can see trends.. I've only done it once on my mustang, just to see where it was at.

They also can suggest going longer intervals on oil changes depending on it's current state.

 

[Laga]

This is the report you get from Blackstone. It costs around $40. I couldn’t find the one from my Mustang so here’s my daughter’s CRV. Find their web site to request kit. It will contain instructions on how to take samples.

 

[Laga]

Thank you. She just turned 11, Pandora's the best, smart and stubborn.

This is the one I got from my mustang when I did it back in 2019. I do it on my 6.0 F550 whenever the oil gets changed. They keep all the data on one sheet so you can see trends.. I've only done it once on my mustang, just to see where it was at.

They also can suggest going longer intervals on oil changes depending on it's current state.

View attachment 85531

Beat me to it.