Pinion Help (pics)

Clay

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I'm working on setting my pinion angle but I'm worried about how much thread is exposed on the UCA adjustment shaft. I'm not sure how much thread is left inside!

Because everyone will ask:

- I'm working on a level concrete garage floor
- My car is on 4 ramps at ride height
- I'm measuring from the DS, and from this:

(NOTE I've also confirmed this angle on the bottom flange of the pinion)
pinion3.jpg




Here is what is bothering me. Check out how much thread is exposed. How much is left inside? It took me about 20 quarter turns of that thing to go from -4* to -2* pinion. Is this normal?

pinion1.jpg


pinion2.jpg
 

fordracing

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Can't help you on the CHE uca The only way to know for sure is keep going until you run out of threads...but that is a hugh pain. I just installed my upper and that is not a fun project.... but If I where to guess your probably ok.

What kind of driveshaft is that? Usually the slip yoke is towards the front of the car though. or am I just viewing your photo wrong?
 

Born To Run

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Pinion

Put your angle finder on the pinion flange.Don't worry there are alot of threads to the adjustible 3rd link.I am @ -2 as well,it will take you down to -6 if you want.no problem.By the way nice spyder shaft.
 

fordracing

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Don't think thats a spyder shaft. there's no adaptor on the spyder shaft.
 

Clay

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It's the Driveshaft Shop 3.5 shaft. Thanks tho :D

I'm just going to pull the UCA tomorrow and see how much room I really have.
 

Born To Run

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I had a Driveshaft Shop unit.It looked nothing like that one.Mine vibrated so bad @ 75 MPH,now a bird feeder post.They copied the spyder shaft idea,which is good.Full size slip joint will solve vibration problem.Stay away from any shafts that have a small diameter slip joint.
 

Josh@PMP

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I had a Driveshaft Shop unit.It looked nothing like that one.Mine vibrated so bad @ 75 MPH,now a bird feeder post.They copied the spyder shaft idea,which is good.Full size slip joint will solve vibration problem.Stay away from any shafts that have a small diameter slip joint.

No im pretty sure Frank has had his aluminum shaft out longer than the "spyder" shafts. They are a 3.5" aluminum shaft, while the "spyder" shaft is a 4" aluminum ranger driveshaft that has been shortened. They are both quality products. The DSS is a from the joint then necks down to 3.5" right after the joint area.
 

Born To Run

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Yeah, my mistake,mine was steel from DSS rated for 900HP,it would have shook me to death like Eric Medlen if i ever got 900 RWHP to it.
 

Clay

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Ok, for archive's sake, I'll update:

I called Chuck at CHE and left a message. He called me back 30 minutes later and was extremely helpful on the phone. He told me there should be plenty of thread left, but to pull the UCA and check. I did so, and he was right, there was at least another 10 full turns of thread left. He also told me that if I needed it, he would custom make me a chrome molly adjustment rod with more thread. I was very impressed with Chuck, I'm glad I ordered CHE products!
 

94tbird

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Chuck is awesome. When i snapped a engine Transmission bolt installing the Torque limiters due to some incorrect torque specs, he overnighted me new bolts for both sides, and said if i had to pay someone to take out the bolt, he would foot the bill. he also offered me a great discount on an adjustable panhard bar for my troubles. Awesome Guy and great Parts.
 

fordracing

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Now that is someone to do business with.... Great to hear about customer service like that.
 

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