Question for turbo guys.

60GT

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First question- do you have to add more oil than the stock levels to compensate for the extra oil lines in the car, every time I start my car its giving me a low oil pressure signal, but goes away after a few seconds and doesn't come back, not sure if oil is just in the line when it first starts and needs a few to get to the sensor or if i actually need more oil, dipstick says its good, but still getting that warning at start up.

Second-you guys think i should run a steel or aluminum flywheel with my set up, I am thinking steel but thought I should ask some people with experience.

Third-was looking at breenspeeds detriot rocker supercharged cam, any experience running a supercharger cam on a turbo, any other cams you recommend (mild ones, dont want to mess with the springs or phasers).

Thanks in advance.
 

JeremyH

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Your oil light is supposed to come on at startup for a few seconds regardless of having a turbo, thats normal.

I have used both alum and steel flywheels no prolems on either.

If your gonna do cams with boost your gonna want to to do springs. You want a wider lsa 115-116 for a turbo, so no blower cams dont work good bc of the tight lsa.
 

19COBRA93

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First question- do you have to add more oil than the stock levels to compensate for the extra oil lines in the car, every time I start my car its giving me a low oil pressure signal, but goes away after a few seconds and doesn't come back, not sure if oil is just in the line when it first starts and needs a few to get to the sensor or if i actually need more oil, dipstick says its good, but still getting that warning at start up.

Second-you guys think i should run a steel or aluminum flywheel with my set up, I am thinking steel but thought I should ask some people with experience.

The turbo and lines don't hold much oil, so if you were to add more to make up for it, it would only be 1/4 of a quart or so. Just make sure your dipstick reads full and you should be good. As for your warning, is it the digital display that actually reads "low oil pressure warning"? You shouldn't have that, or any other warning on startup.

I've run both aluminum and steel flywheels as well, and there are minimal differences. Both work great. IMO, the aluminum flywheel works best for a track type car, and the steel works best for a street type car. But too many variables, and no clear winner either way.
 

60GT

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sounds good, I am getting the display saying Low oil pressure (not the oil light), Like I said its there for a few seconds then its gone, no codes are thrown, and the dipstick says its full. Think I should be worried about it or chaulk it up to a delay for the oil traveling through the turbo line to the sensor.

Thanks for the cam info.
 

19COBRA93

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sounds good, I am getting the display saying Low oil pressure (not the oil light), Like I said its there for a few seconds then its gone, no codes are thrown, and the dipstick says its full. Think I should be worried about it or chaulk it up to a delay for the oil traveling through the turbo line to the sensor.

Thanks for the cam info.

I wouldn't be satisfied with that. If your pressure sender is getting that delay, so are your main bearings and rod bearings, and cam journals... That should be looked into.
 

60GT

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i was hoping that wasnt the case, another weekend of problem solving and no driving.
 

JoshK

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Did you put in a T fitting where the oild pressure sensor is to run the oil line to the turbo. You wouldn't have gotten anything in the way obstructing the sensor would've you?
 

60GT

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no i dont think anything would of gotten in the way, I dont think the teflon tape would of gone that deep through the threads. Might be something to double check though
 

Bobby

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no you dont have to add oil. the turbo doesnt take much oil away from the car to do what it has to plus it returns it right back after it is done any ways.

run a steel flywheel if possible it will make the turbo spool up fater because of more load.

leave the stock cams in and lock out the vct. that is the best bang for the buck. i had bbr stage 2 cams and i am going back to stock for the next build. unless you go to a strait turbo cam like liver noise sells.
 

JoshK

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What is the benifit of locking out the vct? Is it not good to not lock it out?
 

JeremyH

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You have to physicaly lock the phaser with lockouts and then adjust for it in the tune.

Benefit, dont have to worry about it breaking, downside you will loose power.

Im using the vct at 650rwhp no issues with 10w40 oil.
 

jodadejss06gt

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I actually remote mounted my oil filter so those large either 8 or 10 AN lines hold a little more than just the oil feed for the turbo. It increased my capacity by about half a qt.
 

king_ahmet

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In addition to this. I took my car to the dyno shop yesterday. Upon the first startup of the car, we heard (Rod Knock) which actually happened to be Bank 1 cam going full retard and full advance. I was told it was the phasers. Now, would I have to change the whole phaser, or would locking it out be sufficient? Or would it have to be taken out and inspected??? During the startup, I guess it starved for oil, and just kinda ate itself????

It'll start, sound great, and once revved up a little bit, upon decel oil pressure drops (on gauge) and it knocks REALLY bad. We datalogged it, and saw that Bank 2 cam was pretty solid, and did what it was supposed to, Bank 1 was ALL OVER the place, up to Full Retard, back to Full Advance and such.

Any help is appreciated. I just did not want to start another thread.
 

s8v4o

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run a steel flywheel if possible it will make the turbo spool up fater because of more load.

The only real difference is in the launch and that is mostly affected by NA guys. Once you let out the clutch and the drive train system loads it doesn't really matter what kind of flywheel you have because the gear ratio and tire diameter along with the weight of the vehicle will be determining the load. A turbo car with a properly working 2 step the type of flywheel you have is really a mute point.
 

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