S197 CP Mustang Build Thread

DILYSI Dave

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Finally a) got a reasonable amount of work done and b) brought my camera upstairs to upload the pics, so I guess I can now start a build thread.

The back story - I showed up for my first autox in a bone stock, only 10 years old at the time, 89 Civic. In addition to being quite sure that I was about to show all of these fools what was what, I also took the opportunity to oogle some hardware. And while I was neck deep in the late 90's Honda scene, I saw Rich Shafer's grey widebody Trans Am and was moved. Then I heard it. Then I saw it run. While I was not ready to abandon my Honda just yet, that car made an impact on me that would last. In fact, I would later joke that the Snot Rocket (same 89 Civic that started off as an ES car) was as close as I could get a Civic to being a CP car. Fast forward a few years and when the S197 was released I fell in love. I love the 1st gen mustangs and here was a car that captured the essence of those, but benefited from 50 years of advancement in technology. I would have one.

Fast forward to last year and I had sold the Civic, ready to move on and finally build me a CP car, and I wanted to do it with the S197 Chassis. For months I scoured every craigslist this side of the Mississippi and finally found the right car just an hour away. Marcus Merideth had told me I wanted to get an '07 or newer, as the updates made for the GT500 were present in all of the chassis, and were well worth the marginal increase in weight, in the chassis stiffness that was improved on this already stout chassis. The one I found was a 2008, which started life as a manual transmission GT. It was purchased as a SEMA build by a now-defunct company. They wanted to go wild on the engine, so it was turbocharged. They wanted a widebody, and told the body shop to make it happen. A month prior to SEMA the car was "done", they were tuning it on the dyno, and popped the motor. As they were unloading it back at the motor shop a fist sized chunk of bondo fell out of the quarter panel. The widebody had been created 100% out of bondo. So, a few short weeks to SEMA, blown motor, trashed bodywork, and they punted. Pulled most of the aftermarket parts off and put them on another new car, and pushed this one into a corner with only ~800 miles on the clock. And there it sat for several years. Company closed, and I bought it from the failed entrepreneur. For the past year, it has gotten the occasional wrench session, but that time has been spent mostly collecting parts. At some point, the parts pile gets deep enough though that you kinda have to build it, and that's where I am.

The day she came home, pre-paint.
CPMustangDay1a.jpg


10 minutes later, rattle canned in the HD Parking lot. This was 90% to stop rust and 10% because I was embarrased to show up with it at home looking like it did. One color helped, even if the body still looked like shit.
CPMustangDay1b.jpg


Some of the Previous owner's sins. There is fiberglass resin, fiberglass shards, and bondo clumps all over the trunk and quarters. The trunk is being replaced with a carbon one. The quarters will need some professional attention.
CPMustang003.JPG


More:
CPMustang005.JPG


More:
CPMustang008.JPG


Finally working on it pics. Here I am setting the position of the LCA extension brackets. I set the spherical arms to the exact same length as the OE, put the axle at it's riding height, and let that set the position of the brackets. Then tacked them into place. This should let the LCA's swing through the adjustment range but never effect wheelbase, etc. Steeda's instructions say to install them on an alignment rack that can verify that it's all kosher, but I think the triangle setup I used here accomplishes what was needed.
CPMustang009.JPG


Axle out of the car and ready for work - Welded the tubes. Here they are post weld, taking the long cool. Preheat + Post cool + stainless rod + TIG got the steel tubes and the Iron center to live peacefully within the same weld.
CPMustang016.JPG


Here are some parts I had Kingpin Machine make for me - It's part of my weight jacker setup. The weight jackers will let me use standard coilover style 2.25" springs and also corner balance it. There is also a spherical spring seat that will ride up and down on this stud, but it's not back from the plater yet. When it's all said and done, these will have ~1.75" of height / weight adjustment travel and no spring bind thanks to the spherical seat.
CPMustang021.JPG


Here is what the final assembly will look like -
WeightJackerAssembly_zps2214c6b7.jpg


OE Spring seat -
CPMustang014.JPG


The weight jacker mocked up -
CPMustang015.JPG


Welded the Grade 8 Stud to the Adapter cup -
CPMustang022.JPG


And then the cup to the stock spring seat. Also seen in this pic is the relocated bump stop brackets. You can see it in it's original home a few pics up. The place where the bump stops normally hit the chassis is going away in the interest of creating more tire room. So I moved them inboard to hit what remains.
CPMustang029.JPG


I've got a couple of minor fab things left to do to the axle, then it's ready for paint and reassembly. I lucked out in that the OE gear is the ratio I want, so it's going back in, though I did pick up a T2R from Sam a couple of weeks ago to drop in when it does. When the axle goes back in, it will be going with spherical upper and lower arms, and a Fays2 Watts link (also spherical throughout). In fact, this car will not have a single bushing left in it when it hits the ground.

A few other pics just for S&G -

Hellaflush (actually figuring out front spring lengths) -
CPMustang020.JPG


The stock 4.6 that will power it for Phase 1 -
CPMustangEngine.jpg


OK, not TOTALLY stock -
CPMustangHeaders.jpg
 
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DILYSI Dave

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Also have knocked out some work in the interior -

Fabbing the Seat Mount (which I still maintain is one of the more miserable jobs in racecar prep) -
CPMustang010.JPG


Seat Mounted. OMP WRC XL that I got from Discovery Parts. Ended up modifying the passenger side manual rails rather than deal with the power rails. Shortened them as much as is possible and still retain sliders and the OE mounting scheme.
CPMustang012.JPG


Also got the Sparco wheel mounted -
CPMustang011.JPG


CPMustang013.JPG


That rusty OE dash bar needs to come out, have some of the impalement spikes cut off, be painted and be reinstalled (chassis stiffness). The plan right now is to keep the AC unit...
 

DILYSI Dave

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And since I keep referring to build phases, here is the rough outline in my head -

Phase 1 = Basically a lightened / slightly overbuilt ESP car. Bolt on engine stuff - I've got the previously pictured long tubes, a Steeda under drive pulley, I may or may not eliminate the tumble generator flaps, I have a CAI, and an OBD tuner that came with the car. A dyno session on 93 Octane should get me 300HP to the ground give or take. The suspension is the aforementioned JRZ triples, controlling a fully spherical suspension. After putting the Kingpin front end on the Snot Rocket, I'm sold on spherical bearings. Most of the stuff is a hodgepodge of used stuff I've picked up over the last year. Shelby (I believe made by BMR) LCA's and a Steeda UCA, with a spherical in the axle housing as well. The front is BMR heim jointed A-Arms down low and Vorshlag camber plates with the monoball up top. I hope to hit 2900# with AC and full glass. Each door is 100#, so if I can do 2900# while keeping it weatherproof, then 2700# is a few bolts away once I decide to commit to an enclosed trailer. Phase 1 is also going to be on A6's, or if I do go to a non-DOT, it will still be something not conventional to the CP grid - Maybe the Avon 18's.

Phase 2 = This is foggier, as it will mostly be directed by what Phase 1 tells me. Did the A6 experiment work or do I need to make peace with the latest generation of slicks? Do I need more motor? Do I need less weight? Do I need a stiffer chassis? Where am I getting beat? Ideal world, the tires are all I wanted and more and I have a clear path to lighter weight, and I build a 400HP 3.7 based V6 and get the car down to 2450#. I give that scenario about a 5% chance of being reality.
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Vorshlag-Fair

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Phase 1 = Basically a lightened / slightly overbuilt ESP car. Bolt on engine stuff - I've got the previously pictured long tubes, a Steeda under drive pulley, I may or may not eliminate the tumble generator flaps, I have a CAI, and an OBD tuner that came with the car. A dyno session on 93 Octane should get me 300HP to the ground give or take. The suspension is the aforementioned JRZ triples, controlling a fully spherical suspension. After putting the Kingpin front end on the Snot Rocket, I'm sold on spherical bearings. Most of the stuff is a hodgepodge of used stuff I've picked up over the last year. Shelby (I believe made by BMR) LCA's and a Steeda UCA, with a spherical in the axle housing as well. The front is BMR heim jointed A-Arms down low and Vorshlag camber plates with the monoball up top. I hope to hit 2900# with AC and full glass. Each door is 100#, so if I can do 2900# while keeping it weatherproof, then 2700# is a few bolts away once I decide to commit to an enclosed trailer. Phase 1 is also going to be on A6's, or if I do go to a non-DOT, it will still be something not conventional to the CP grid - Maybe the Avon 18's.

This is a solid "working my way into CP" plan, from what I can see. I've been saying for a decade that somebody needs to build a max effort late model S197 for C Prepared. With ABS, a relatively narrow track (compared to most CP cars), running on big A6s, I'd think you could give the old school iron a run for the money.

IMG_1726-M.jpg

An ESP Mustang on 315mm front, 345mm rear Hoosier A6s + a major diet = possible CP contender?

When we planned our ESP build (that you SEB guys put the kabosh on until 2015. Glad I didn't stick around for that delay, heh) we were going to run a second set of doors and put 2 drivers in ESP and 2 in CP, the same year at Nationals.

I think the weight goals will take a lot of surgery, but it is possible if it is a CP only kind of build. No cage... none. I'd be looking at aluminum rear axle housings, too. But 2900 is doable. Doubtful with A/C, tho.

Last thing I would change in your recipe is the engine... sure, the 4.6L is an easy way to get it running, but if you start at the beginning with the right motor you won't get stuck with the wrong one down the road.

motor-4.6-4V-004.jpg


Any of the Ford Mod motors are heavy and huge. The 3V 4.6L is very heavy and you have to work at it to make 350 whp. The 5.0L DOHC V8 is a tick lighter and makes 100+ more hp, but it is costly and huge. If you want a light car you will want an aluminum block, OHV based old school 302" V8.

46engineweight-M.jpg


The CP "V6 loophole" is an idea to explore, but that weight goal is going to be very difficult in these S197 cars, even within CP rules.

Just my 2 cents. Good luck, and may the rules be with you.
 

DILYSI Dave

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Yeah, the 4.6 is sure to change, but what it changes to is the big question. My gut feeling is that a Coyote goes in it at some point, but man would it be awesome to hit / flirt with a 2450# min weight. And yeah, while an old school 302 based motor may be the right choice at some point, I'm going to avoid it as long as I can...

What's the 2015 delay you mention?
 
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Sky Render

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DILYSI Dave

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Why Fays 2 - A few reasons. First, it sticks with my goals of a bolt on, not reinvent the wheel build. If I let myself, I could go fab crazy, but then the car would never get done. One of the things I'm trying to get better at personally is to not DIY every damn thing. My time is finite, so I should spend it where it counts. Second - the spherical links. That's the big thing I like about the Fays over the Whiteline. I think diff mounted versus chassis mounted is debatable over which is superior, and in a street car I very well may go the other way, but IMO sphericals always beat bushings on a racecar. I'm planning on clamping the clamps for now. If they move, yeah, they will get welded. But it seems like they pretty much never move.

Part of what would be required to make the V6 weight would be a rethinking of transmissions. I'd likely need to use a 2 speed Jericho as part of the weight saving effort.

Re: Delay - I'll look into it. I certainly don't think anyone intended the diff cover thing to be delayed. In fact, I'm pretty sure that it falling under the "Recomended to the BOD" heading means it's all but done for 2014, but again - I'll check. The STU thing specifically says 2014.
 
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Sky Render

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Why Fays 2 - A few reasons. First, it sticks with my goals of a bolt on, not reinvent the wheel build. If I let myself, I could go fab crazy, but then the car would never get done. One of the things I'm trying to get better at personally is to not DIY every damn thing. My time is finite, so I should spend it where it counts. Second - the spherical links. That's the big thing I like about the Fays over the Whiteline. I think diff mounted versus chassis mounted is debatable over which is superior, and in a street car I very well may go the other way, but IMO sphericals always beat bushings on a racecar. I'm planning on clamping the clamps for now. If they move, yeah, they will get welded. But it seems like they pretty much never move.

I've seen the Fays2 clamps move. It may have been installed incorrectly, however.

Cortex makes a diff-mounted Watts link that uses spherical links.

http://www.cortexracing.com/shop/xtreme-grip-watts-link-system-track-2005/
 

DILYSI Dave

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Nice piece. I'd still probably choose the Fays over that, based on a combination of price and a mild preference for a chassis mounted pivot link. But yeah, if diff mounted is what you like, that's a nice piece. If tuning dictates it, I may end up fabbing a mumford link at some point. That's well outside the realm of my bolt-on phase though.
 

modernbeat

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Dave, do it right. Forget bolt-ons. Three link with horizontal Watts.

Here's the Lotus 7 I used to compete in. Geometry courtesy of Gene Young.

DSCF1322.jpg


Or, you could do it like Paul Bird, torque arm with a horizontal Watts integrated into the arm in front of the diff. But I still prefer the 3-link.

Wattslinkrear.jpg


WattsLink.jpg
 

DILYSI Dave

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I love that Seven. IIRC I saw it over on GRM and it was one of the things that led me down the rabbit hole into discovering mumford links. But I've got a kid showing up in February and I am keenly aware that my wrenching time goes WAY down at that point, so bolt-on it is for now. If I have this thing as a driver by February, there's a reasonable chance of continued development, even at a reduced pace. If it's still on jackstands in February, my gut feeling is it will be for the next decade...
 

DILYSI Dave

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You can get a lower roll center than with a watts link. Below ground level if so desired. Do I want that? I dunno. But a watts will be an easily adjustable way of figuring that out. If I bottom out the watts and still want more, it's an option.
 

Whiskey11

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You can get a lower roll center than with a watts link. Below ground level if so desired. Do I want that? I dunno. But a watts will be an easily adjustable way of figuring that out. If I bottom out the watts and still want more, it's an option.

I'm not sure you will bottom it out. My car is not your car and they aren't and wont be set up the same, but I've been to both ends of the spectrum on the Fays2 full frame. Let me be the first to say that all the way down is WAAAAY TOO LOW. I'm at the exact opposite end of the spectrum at all the way up and I wont drop it down unless adding Sam's rear bar and running at full stiff up front causes some serious oversteer that softening the rear bar can't fix. That's with 440/200 springs. I'm sure you'll be stiffer with springs than I am but any lower and the car is just a push fest even on 265 wide tires. Granted, I'm at stock power levels but where it is at right now the car is oversteer capable with some throttle application which is perfect!

Good thing the Fays2 can be reasonably easy to adjust. The upper 2 holes require removal of the frame to adjust due to limited space for wrenches...
 

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