Stock H Removal 2011+

[dsmith658]

I am in the middle of pulling my motor, and I am having a tough time in a stupid place. I was expecting the stock H-pipe flange bolts to be accessible from the bottom like the 3V, but it looks like they are studs facing the front. I broke several extensions already trying to get the first one out from the top, and to be honest I don't even think I can even touch the other three from the top. I looked through several tech guides for header swaps and it sure looks like the studs face the opposite direction than what I am seeing.

Any tips from veterans who have done the swap before on the 2011+?

 

[Mr. Q]

just swapped the cats out for offroad in my 12. what are you having issues with? are you talking about the flange for the cats?
I used an extension with a swivel socket to get to the passenger side external nut and everything else was accessible from under the car.

 

[dsmith658]

just swapped the cats out for offroad in my 12. what are you having issues with? are you talking about the flange for the cats?
I used an extension with a swivel socket to get to the passenger side external nut and everything else was accessible from under the car.

http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n636/dsmith658/roush%20teardown/20151113_151642.jpg[IMG]

[IMG]http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n636/dsmith658/roush%20teardown/20151113_151642.jpg

The pic is my primary issue. The bolts are just not coming out. I finally just put my ass into it and snapped one off. Using penetrating oil.

Just doesn't make sense that I have to break them all off to get them out.

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[Tiddies]

If you are talking H-pipe to manifold bolts, those should be able to be removed from underneath the vehicle. The only one that is a beast is the outside passenger I believe, and that one is pretty much the devil.

They should be studs through the manifold. Are your not like that?

 

[Mr. Q]

i had lots of difficulty breaking those nuts loose. I blasted it with penetrating oil, let it sit while I drank a beer, then proceeded to break them loose. I didn't have to snap the studs off though lol. sorry you had to do that man

 

[dsmith658]

If you are talking H-pipe to manifold bolts, those should be able to be removed from underneath the vehicle. The only one that is a beast is the outside passenger I believe, and that one is pretty much the devil.

They should be studs through the manifold. Are your not like that?

Can you tell me exactly how you got the outside flange bolt on the passenger side? I have a deep well on a swivel and it hits the body, so it won't fit right. I have a crazy line of extensions coming out the top trying to turn it. It's basically a useless exercise. I'll take any advice you can give on that one.

I broke off all the rest of them.

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[Mr. Q]

I used a swivel socket with a long extension. when I got the socket seated to the nut, I grabbed my impact and gunned that sucker out.

 

[dsmith658]

Well good news is it worked. But holy shit that sucker was a bastard.

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[Mr. Q]

Awesome! Glad you got it out, but yes I had difficulty with that one.

 

[Tiddies]

Good to hear you got it off

 

[travelers]

Mine was a pain to get off also, but the headers was just a pain to install

 

[BruceH]

Well good news is it worked. But holy shit that sucker was a bastard.

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Is it anything like a 3v where taking the battery and tray out makes the job a whole lot easier?

 

[Mr. Q]

nah, taking the battery tray wouldn't do anything. if I remember correctly, the strut tower molding of the engine bay is the limiting factor. just gotta get a light to shine right on the bolt and you can get to it from the top with an extension.