Throwout Bearing Question

[Special Agent Bob]

I have a stock 2007 GT that I've recently had to replace the clutch on. Went with the McLeod Street Muscle kit and went ahead and grabbed their stock style TOB as well.

I've had that TOB fail twice now the same way; went to shift and pedal went straight to the floor with no pressure. Both times their was hydro fluid all in the bell housing and it was clear that the bearing failed. First failed at 46 miles and the second at roughly 150 miles.

My question (as I get ready to return the second one and seek a different part) is how am I supposed to know with a stock style TOB if/how much to shim? The clutch kit I bought came with a shim that's .210 (give or take .001) and the instructions clearly state not to use it since the part number we have doesn't match the ones listed that would require the shim. Besides that any information on shimming I've found has seemed to only be for things like the adjustable RAM bearing.

At this point I'm thinking that the TOB is overextending from the pressure because it doesn't have enough travel distance without a shim and breaking, but I don't know if that's the case for sure, or if I just have had shit luck with faulty parts.

Still pretty new to this, so I apologize in advance for any ignorance on my part.

Appreciate any information you guys can provide.

Part links:
https://www.americanmuscle.com/mcleod-street-muscle-0510-gt.html
https://www.americanmuscle.com/mcleod-hydraulic-throwout-bearing-stockstyle-0517.html

 

[rocky61201]

There is another post on here somewhere from a reputable source, the guy that owns Department of Boost.

You will need a long straight edge to lay across the bellhousing face and the clutch pressure plate face and a ruler.

#1 - Measure from transmission bellhousing face to throwout bearing and record. #2 - With the thin transmission separator plate in place measure from the engine block face to the clutch pressure plate face and record. Measure from the pressure plate face down to the clutch fingers and subtract that from the previous measure measurement. That is your new #2 measurement. Then subtract the #1 from #2. Your target is as close as you can to 1 inch but not more.

If you are over 1 inch of travel as you suspect then that is probably why your are breaking them. Hint - If you hold a brand new ToB in your hand and depress it completely it only travels about 1 inch.

Last thing, I have a newly rebuilt 3650 sitting in my garage with 1 shim in place and a new ToB sitting ready to be installed in the car. I measured that the other night and I was right at 2 1/2 inches. That is my #1 measurement from step 1 above.

 

[06redgt]

Not to hijack....but I think that's awesome you are at 230K and still going. I can imagine the seat has seen its better days haha.

 

[Special Agent Bob]

Took your measurements and sure enough that seems to be the issue. Currently waiting on the OEM part to get here, but it appears we'll need to find longer bolts somewhere to accommodate the addition of the spacer. Is there anywhere in particular I should be looking to find the replacement bolts?

 

[rocky61201]

I got the longer ones I needed at Lowes.

 

[Special Agent Bob]

Ah, cool. I was hoping it would be something like that. Seriously, thank you for all the help!

 

[Joe Montes]

I put a Centerforce in my 2007 GT at 98000 miles. No shim was needed. At about 198000 shifting started getting notchy till it got to the point over a few months where it wouldn't go into first or reverse. I rebuilt the pedal assembly to fix the clutch pedal rocking sideways and had good pedal feel. But still the clutch wouldn't fully disengage. I put in a NAPA clutch kit and it still won't go in gear. I'm going to pull it apart and do the measurements. What I don't understand is why I was losing throw after driving it for years.
Perplexed.

 

[07 Boss]

What I don't understand is why I was losing throw after driving it for years.
Perplexed.

Shit wears out.

 

[Mach2burnout]

Just buy a factory Ford TOB and set up as the original was.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Midlife Crises]

I have used the stock Ford and the McLeod stock type throw out bearing both. They are the same length and interchangeable. Take the measurements and determine how much preload you will have with your combination of parts. The throw out bearing should be pushed back more than a half inch “pre loaded” when the trans. is bolted to the engine. If your measurements show there is not enough preload use a spacer between the transmission and TOB to get the interference you need. You don’t want to operate at the very end of the travel

 

[Joe Montes]

There are a lot of shims thicknesses available for the T56. Will they work on the standard 5 speed bell housing? I've only found a .210. I need a 1/2" thick shim.

 

[Midlife Crises]

There are a lot of shims thicknesses available for the T56. Will they work on the standard 5 speed bell housing?

The shim doesn’t go on the bell house. It fits between the transmission and throwout bearing. If needed! How much is determined by the measurements.

 

[Rick Simons]

This is really good info! I'm planning a clutch replacement soon due to TOB noise. I have an Exedy Mach 1 kit but I'm using a new OEM release bearing. I plan to measure the finger height of the existing PP for a baseline. I know the fingers will be higher with a used disc, but this will at least give me a reference point if there are any issues.

 

[Juice]

Over 4 years on a Dorman slave/throwout, Centerforce clutch, used shim that came with new magnum xl. No issues till last track day. New master cylinder ready to go in, just too lazy as the issue 'fixed' itself. lol

 

[Mach2burnout]

Over 4 years on a Dorman slave/throwout, Centerforce clutch, used shim that came with new magnum xl. No issues till last track day. New master cylinder ready to go in, just too lazy as the issue 'fixed' itself. lol

Probably caused by overheated brake fluid.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Juice]

Probably caused by overheated brake fluid.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Funny you should say that, it was a rather warm day.
I had no indication of any brake fluid boiling in the brakes.
The issue was the clutch pedal was only returning half way, but still drove ok and wasn't obvious and went into gear just fine from a stop, even reverse. I pulled the clutch pedal all the way up at the end of the day, and it has been fine since. lol