using a drill?

[Clipboard]

What are your guys thoughts of using a variable speed drill for polishing/waxing?
I was looking at mothers powerball and other drill functionable pads, safe? Not a good idea?
My phone wont allow me to use the search function ;(

 

[Pardue]

I burned through the powdercoating on one of my old wheels with a powerball. I would just get a PC or a flex.

 

[Seer]

Polishing metal.. sure, paint... eh, buy an actual buffer.

 

[Clipboard]

Dang ok i was hopin to "cheat" a little lol

 

[Seer]

Dang ok i was hopin to "cheat" a little lol

Meguiars has a system out now that is for cordless drills, works semi decently.

 

[Clipboard]

Meguiars has a system out now that is for cordless drills, works semi decently.

Ill look into it, my car definitely needs a mild polish soon

 

[KonaBlue11]

Meguiars has a system out now that is for cordless drills, works semi decently.

I saw that thing on a TV car show and wondered if it was something gimmicky.

 

[07TGGT]

I wouldn't risk it.

 

[BlackReign]

I saw that thing on a TV car show and wondered if it was something gimmicky.

I'm no expert, but I would think it would make joe blow happy....but if someone was wanting to do some solid paint correction, I would think it would probably fall a bit short.

I would just take that money and put it towards a PC.

 

[Seer]

the drills fall very very short from competing with DA's

 

[HitandRunDriver]

I think I received a mothers powerball from my parents as a gift when I was 17. They didn't know any better, so it was fine. Damn thing fell apart in a few weeks though, since then I've been turned off to any drill attachments save the 3M rubbing wheel to remove adhesive. I saw a commercial recently advertising for a mothers drill D/A system...yeah, no thanks.

 

[Grabber]

I don't recommend you buying a drill solely for correcting your paint. However, you can use one safely on small areas or areas that are heavily oxidized and scratched, but should not use it past that point.

 

[Clipboard]

I don't recommend you buying a drill solely for correcting your paint. However, you can use one safely on small areas or areas that are heavily oxidized and scratched, but should not use it past that point.

No i already own a drill thats why i was curious. Just savin money for a pc now to do it the right way the first time

 

[fdjizm]

Wait so spinning is not really spinning? o.0

 

[Seer]

Wait so spinning is not really spinning? o.0

Do you know how a DA functions vs. a drill?

If you did you would not make that comment.

A cordless drill is good enough to apply a wax or a sealant, it does not have the oomph of a rotary to polish a vehicle or the safety with the oscillations of a DA.

 

[Grabber]

Do you know how a DA functions vs. a drill?

If you did you would not make that comment.

A cordless drill is good enough to apply a wax or a sealant, it does not have the oomph of a rotary to polish a vehicle or the safety with the oscillations of a DA.

Are you referring to drills not being able to properly correct paint/polish a vehicle from experience?

I've used Cordless drills on Narrow spots on cars where a DA would be useless (Flared Fenders with crevices or extra curves) with 105/205 and have completely corrected an 8 x 8 area with no issue. Seeing as a drill is pure rotary, I will have to disagree that a drill lacks the power or ability to safely correct paint. A DA will not be able to get in every spot when the head of the unit may not fit in every area, but a drill with an extension would.

Please don't take this as an attack. I know you are well versed in what we do, however, I have a different take and have used drills on several cars, included a near 30 hour 1989 Porsche Carrera that had Severely Scratched and Oxidized panels our Flex and PC could not get to. On open/flat surfaces, a DA/Flex will obviously work better than a Drill and correct with no issues, whereas one wrong move with a drill and you damage the paint.

 

[Seer]

Are you referring to drills not being able to properly correct paint/polish a vehicle from experience?

I've used Cordless drills on Narrow spots on cars where a DA would be useless (Flared Fenders with crevices or extra curves) with 105/205 and have completely corrected an 8 x 8 area with no issue. Seeing as a drill is pure rotary, I will have to disagree that a drill lacks the power or ability to safely correct paint. A DA will not be able to get in every spot when the head of the unit may not fit in every area, but a drill with an extension would.

Please don't take this as an attack. I know you are well versed in what we do, however, I have a different take and have used drills on several cars, included a near 30 hour 1989 Porsche Carrera that had Severely Scratched and Oxidized panels our Flex and PC could not get to. On open/flat surfaces, a DA/Flex will obviously work better than a Drill and correct with no issues, whereas one wrong move with a drill and you damage the paint.

OP is looking to use a drill in place of a rotary/DA. It is not a good option, and will not give the same result.

Yes tight corners in inconspicuous areas where total correction is not needed or can be seen a drill works fine. It is not a replacement for a DA/Rotary when doing a full detail, it is a supplemental tool.

To say a drill is essentially a rotary is not 100% correct, as it will not be able to correct to the same level as a rotary would, as stated above it is perfectly fine to use in inconspicuous areas where a rotary/da cannot reach, but to compare the correction ability and say you will get the same level is not 100% correct. It'll get you close but not there.

This being said, there are plenty of backing plates that will allow the use of a 3" pad, which can get you into most (not all) tight places on a vehicle.

 

[Grabber]

OP is looking to use a drill in place of a rotary/DA. It is not a good option, and will not give the same result.

Yes tight corners in inconspicuous areas where total correction is not needed or can be seen a drill works fine. It is not a replacement for a DA/Rotary when doing a full detail, it is a supplemental tool.

To say a drill is essentially a rotary is not 100% correct, as it will not be able to correct to the same level as a rotary would, as stated above it is perfectly fine to use in inconspicuous areas where a rotary/da cannot reach, but to compare the correction ability and say you will get the same level is not 100% correct. It'll get you close but not there.

This being said, there are plenty of backing plates that will allow the use of a 3" pad, which can get you into most (not all) tight places on a vehicle.

Gotcha man, hope I didn't come across in a negative way.

A drill is NOT a replacement as you said.

Glad we are on the same page then dude.

 

[HAPPY HIPPO]

If you were in el paso I would just give you mine. It is in a box of junk.

 

[lostsoul]

Damn.. no one searches a few threads down that had a top detailer named lostsoul that used a cordless with Meguiars power DA.. Its about 100 bucks and works great..

-You will need a good cordless(corded if possible). I believe that you want to spin it to 1800-2200rpm (if it cant get there then barrow or dont get the system)

- A battery will last about half or less of the car, so have spares
- tape off areas with painters tape
- Dont be laaaaaazy and wax over bugs. even if you used bug and tar remover and only removed half the body parts
- Have good lighting so you wont miss... umm spots
- people say 2x2 scetion.. I did a section at a time and jizzed the product in spots. Granted it mmmmight not have been the best way to do it, but I think you can do a bigger section at a time.. maybe 3x4
- Dont put too much...beeeecause its hard to get off that way
- last bit of advice.. dont do it for the wifes car because you will get shit for recognition.. not even a damn thank you or blow.. nothing.....