Yes...Another Clutch thread.

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Basically I have searched and can't get straight up answers on the questions I am looking for.

1. When buying a new clutch and pressure plate do you need to replace anything else at the same time?

2. Is it necessary to replace these items?

3. What would the difference be if I bought an Aluminum flywheel or if I resurfaced the old one?

4. Whats the difference between a steel flywheel and an aluminum besides the weight difference.

5. If I do not buy these items, how long will the stock clutch hold up (30k miles) with the addition of a procharger?

Last but not least, I have read bad things about spec, so would you recommend Ram Powergrip rated at 550hp for a procharged GT or would you recommend something different.


Thank you so much!
 

1BADHRSE

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Basically I have searched and can't get straight up answers on the questions I am looking for.

1. When buying a new clutch and pressure plate do you need to replace anything else at the same time?

2. Is it necessary to replace these items?

3. What would the difference be if I bought an Aluminum flywheel or if I resurfaced the old one?

4. Whats the difference between a steel flywheel and an aluminum besides the weight difference.

5. If I do not buy these items, how long will the stock clutch hold up (30k miles) with the addition of a procharger?

Last but not least, I have read bad things about spec, so would you recommend Ram Powergrip rated at 550hp for a procharged GT or would you recommend something different.


Thank you so much!


IF you are doing the swap yourself..
CLUTCH obviously...
You will most likely need a Pressure plate unless you got immensely lucky and the teeth on the stock pressure plate are still there and not beaten and bent...
You will need a TOB "throw out bearing"
You will need a Alignment tool...
I highly recommend a New flywheel be as I did my clutch swap 2 weeks ago resurface my stock then a week later the starter teeth on the stock pop off...
I love my Forged steel but Aluminuim will make you rev fast and drop rpm faster "from what i hear".
I changed my pilot bearing while down there... Why not...
I also changed my trans fluid while the trans was out

So my list was:
Pressure Plate $350
Clutch (Came as one)
Flywheel $250
TOB (throw out bearing) $120
Pilot Bearing $10
Trans Fluid $30

You need someone there to help handle the trans for sure...

edit: I have the Ram Powergrip no problems after 500miles
 
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chad05gt

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Basically I have searched and can't get straight up answers on the questions I am looking for.

1. When buying a new clutch and pressure plate do you need to replace anything else at the same time?

2. Is it necessary to replace these items?

3. What would the difference be if I bought an Aluminum flywheel or if I resurfaced the old one?

4. Whats the difference between a steel flywheel and an aluminum besides the weight difference. dont be cheap, get flywheel

5. If I do not buy these items, how long will the stock clutch hold up (30k miles) with the addition of a procharger?

Last but not least, I have read bad things about spec, so would you recommend Ram Powergrip rated at 550hp for a procharged GT or would you recommend something different.


Thank you so much!

Ive been using Ram powergrip HD w/ 310 clutch, new stock tob, new pilot bearing, new flywheel bolts.... over 20K miles... all good.
 
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So for sure I need

Clutch/Pressure Plate/Alignment key:
http://www.americanmuscle.com/ramclutch-powergrip-0509gt.html

Pilot Bearing:
http://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-pilotbearing-96102.html

And they said on the Ram Powergrip clutch link I posted that there is no TOB and its a Slave cyl? Where would I go to buy one of those.

Then we have the question about the flywheel. I don't necessarly have the extra cash to buy an aluminum one but I could wing it, or should I resurface the old one?

How hard is it to replace the clutch correctly? Or should I just leave that up to a mechanic?

Thanks guys!
 

chad05gt

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So for sure I need

Clutch/Pressure Plate/Alignment key:
http://www.americanmuscle.com/ramclutch-powergrip-0509gt.html

Pilot Bearing:
http://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-pilotbearing-96102.html

And they said on the Ram Powergrip clutch link I posted that there is no TOB and its a Slave cyl? Where would I go to buy one of those.

Then we have the question about the flywheel. I don't necessarly have the extra cash to buy an aluminum one but I could wing it, or should I resurface the old one?

How hard is it to replace the clutch correctly? Or should I just leave that up to a mechanic?

Thanks guys!



why waste $ doing it over???

just get steel or al flywheel when you get clutch and pressure plate.

search for tob, or just get from FORD
 

1BADHRSE

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Rockauto.com I have a Rhino... Looks Identical to the Fomoco which fords come with...
 

chad05gt

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How long will the stock clutch last under the power? Thinking about waiting until xmas to install the clutch, but installing the procharger within the next two weeks
 

2NY

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aside from what everyone is saying..MAKE SURE YOU KNOW HOW TO BLEED THE SYSTEM PROPERLY!! That is probably one of the biggest problems things that people who havent touched a system like ours have..if you dont know how to bleed it properly..dont even bother doing it yourself..and the way ford says they do it..

WONT WORK WELL!! Trust me. Been there, done that. There is a bleeder in the tranny above the TOB
 

JibStyle

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I'm confused about the difference between a TOB and a slave cylinder. Do our cars come stock with a TOB, while aftermarket clutches require you to get rid of the TOB and use a slave cylinder? What happens if you try to install an aftermarket clutch and use the TOB already there? I don't really understand what a throwout bearing and slave cylinder do, other than that they are parts of a clutch system.
 

trill gear head

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I'm confused about the difference between a TOB and a slave cylinder. Do our cars come stock with a TOB, while aftermarket clutches require you to get rid of the TOB and use a slave cylinder? What happens if you try to install an aftermarket clutch and use the TOB already there? I don't really understand what a throwout bearing and slave cylinder do, other than that they are parts of a clutch system.

Throw out bearing (TOB) = Slave Cylinder. The TOB's are were used pre-2005 as a clutch driven system while the 2005 hydraulic slave cylinder was put in the s197's. TOB is often used to describe the Slave cylinder in the S197, it is all symantics. The problems you've been reading about are some aftermarket clutches that have stronger pressure plates that tend to make the stock Slave's fail.

The purpose of the Slave or TOB is to put pressure on the pressure plate witch transmits the centrificial force from the engine to the transmission. When You decompress the clutch pedal, it will decompress the slave cylinder so that minimal or no force is being transmissited to the transmission. When you let out of the clutch pedal, it will extend the Slave until the clutch is fully engaged.

If it helps think of the clutch as an on/off switch for the engines energy then apply the same thought to the Slave. When you press in the clutch pedal it turns the slave 'off'. When you let out the clutch pedal, it will turn the slave 'on'.

On a totally unrelated note: Don't see the movie "Precious". I'm tired of seeing movies about stereotypical fat black people, and on top of that the bitch is ugly. :kma:(I just saw a commercial on it if that makes any relevance.)
 

07CaliSpecial

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I just installed a new clutch in my GT 3 weeks ago. I went with a Fidanza aluminum flywheel (259.00), McLeod RST (699.00), Rockauto/Rhino Slave cylinder (119.00) and Ford pilot bearing (15.99).

I love my Forged steel but Aluminuim will make you rev fast and drop rpm faster "from what i hear". I noticed a quickening of the rev up but not much if anything in the rpm drop. I still have the standard Whipple tune which helps the "rev down" but the rev's still seems to "hang" a bit between gears which is a direct result of the tune from what I've been told.

I changed my pilot bearing while down there... Why not...
I also changed my trans fluid while the trans was out
^^ Both good ideas!

You need someone there to help handle the trans for sure...
A tranny jack or floor jack adapter was a must for me, HEAVY!! And if your doing this job, by yourself in your garage like I did, you will need to raise the car a bunch if you want to get the tranny out from under the car while on the tranny jack. I just left the tranny under the car.

So for sure I need

Clutch/Pressure Plate/Alignment key:
http://www.americanmuscle.com/ramclutch-powergrip-0509gt.html

Pilot Bearing:
http://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-pilotbearing-96102.html

And they said on the Ram Powergrip clutch link I posted that there is no TOB and its a Slave cyl? Where would I go to buy one of those.

Then we have the question about the flywheel. I don't necessarly have the extra cash to buy an aluminum one but I could wing it, or should I resurface the old one?
My luck sucked with resurfaced flywheels so I replaced mine with an aluminum one to be safe and for quicker reving. There are pro's and con's to the lighter weight. The drag race guys seem to like the heavier flywheel for launching and the road race folks seem to like the quicker reving characteristics of the lightweight flywheels.

How hard is it to replace the clutch correctly? Or should I just leave that up to a mechanic?
It's not too difficult with the right tools if you've done clutches before. I wouldn't have wanted this to have been my first clutch r&r though. I had to remove the S/C to get the tranny out, yuk. Thankfully I installed it myself so I knew how to do it fairly easily.
Thanks guys!

That's where I got mine too, looks identical to the stock ford slave.


aside from what everyone is saying..MAKE SURE YOU KNOW HOW TO BLEED THE SYSTEM PROPERLY!! That is probably one of the biggest problems things that people who havent touched a system like ours have..if you dont know how to bleed it properly..dont even bother doing it yourself..and the way ford says they do it..WONT WORK WELL!! Trust me. Been there, done that.
I've heard that before too. I bought the vacuum pump and followed the ford instructions. Repeated the cycle 3 times (per the instructions) and the clutch/slave cylinder works PERFECTLY.

There is a bleeder in the tranny above the TOB
I've heard that before so I looked for it. I have no idea where this mysterious bleeder that you are talking about is located. My car is an 07 gt and I couldn't find it. The hydraulic line comes from the clutch master cylinder, and connects to the slave cylinder at the hole in the through the bell housing. I didn't look under the dash though.

I hope this info helps.
 

5.SLOW

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they dont make them easy to work on no more and the cost.

some good info tho
 

jroc07gt

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you shouldnt really need a new flywheel unless you just want a lighter one. if it does have any hotspots then just get it turned.
 

irishpwr46

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fwiw, i just bought an exedy clutch from BBR amd it came with the alignment tool, new slave, and pilot bearing, all included for 335 shipped to the door
 

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