2012 with oil consumption problem

[ridenfish39]

I bought my 2012 new in October of 2011. When I first checked the oil in about 2000 miles it was low 3 quarts. Consumption has been about a quart every 900 to 1200 miles since then and I'm at 39000 miles now. Doesn't seem to matter what oil I use, and I have tried 5/30 wt too. My last change I tried Castrol High Mileage 5/30 (just to see if it helped any), damn car got the ignitor tick from that but it went away. It eats a quart of this shit every 900 miles.

I complained to 2 different dealers early on and they said the consumption would slow and eventually stop, then when it didn't they said a quart every 1000 miles is acceptable.

I gave up and just accepted it. Had the FRPP tune installed by the dealer at about 5 k miles. Had the car at a dyno day and it made 397/381. Later I went catless/Bama and and car ran really hard, but I couldn't stand the smell and noise (my girlfriend lives in a quiet communty and I go to work at 5 am) so I switched back after 9 months.

Early this year I got a cel for a bad front passenger O2, about 3 months later the driver front went. Both were changed under warranty. I have had no other cels. The car runs great, gets 27 mpg highway and doesn't smoke at idle. I would think if I had 1 bad cylinder I would have gotten misfires by now. BTW, I saw a thread here about someone having bad consumption and changing to a GT500 pcv. I did that and saw no difference.

Anyhow, should I keep the car and feed it oil? I don't really care about the 8 bucks a month in oil but I am worried that something major is going to go wrong. Does anyone else have this issue after this many miles? I see many do up til about 10 k, but it usually stops. I love this car but people are telling me to dump it. I'm a year and a half away from paying it off and I'd like to have no payments for a while LOL.

Sorry for the long winded post.....

EDIT.....shit, I meant to put this in the talk section. I know better LOL. Can a mod move this so I don't get destroyed?

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

I ended up trading in my first 12 with oil consumption issues. The 12 i have no doesnt burn any oil. I can go 5000 on an oil change and never add a drop of oil. My old car id have to add 1-2 quarts every 1000 miles. I had it at ford and after 2 visits the ford engineer deemed it normal and wod stop using oil at 10k miles. I traded it in before that. I wasnt willing to wait.

 

[skwerl]

I will guess that it was babied the first 100 miles and the rings never seated correctly. Once the ring edges get polished over they will never really wear any more so your window of opportunity is long gone. When I first test drove my car it had 27 miles on the odometer. I let the oil warm up and after driving about a mile I got on it for a full throttle pull from 20 to 75. Made a couple more hard pulls before the test drive was over.

This is why the manufacturers no longer recommend any break in procedure, because 90% of people will instantly think that they need to baby the car and that's the worst thing you can do for ring seating. By the time they start using the gas pedal after several hundred miles it's too late. BTW, my car burned a quart in the first 1000 miles and less than a half quart in the last 5000 miles.

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

Brian, i drove my car back home 250 miles when i bought it. I beat the hell out of it on the highway. Tons of 30-100 pulls. In fact the dealer filled the tank up and i had to fill it again before getting home. I put 93 in it and ordered a Lund tune as soon as i got home. The car was tuned within a week of buying it. Mine definitely wasnt from getting broke in. Mine was sucking a ton of oil into the intake and a gt500 pcv slowed it down but not enough so i added a catch can. It got to were i was only adding a quart every oil change but that wasnt good enough for me. The 3v didnt use oil so i felt like that one shouldnt either.

 

[FIVE-OH]

My '11 with 20K has never used a drop. Been using Pennzoil Platinum synthetic 5/20 since the first change I did.

 

[ridenfish39]

It seems like there is a select few 2011-2012 5.0s that are big oil eaters. I've done a LOT of searching across several forums and haven't found many, but they are out there. There are a bunch of 5.0 oil eaters in the Truck forums too. Sucks that I am one of them, it's leaving a bad taste in my mouth for Ford especially with the way I've been treated by dealers (even before I was modded).

I really like the S550 but I think I'm gonna hold out and see what the new Camaro offers. I wanted to keep this car because I love it but I'm afraid I'm one wot stomp away from an expensive engine rebuild. Besides the oil consumption I have whiny 3.73s (that dealer said was normal LOL), slight whine from the MT82 (but I can live with it because it has worked flawlessly since new), sway bar end links went bad (replaced under warranty), hood corrosion (again fixed under warranty), the 2 bad O2 sensors (fixed under warranty), clutch pack in diff went bad ( warranty), leaky axle vent (ford said was normal) and the ignitor tick that went away after about 500 miles on the last oil change.

Yeah, and I broke in the car hard when I bought it.

 

[SNKPWR]

I have put about 1500 miles on my 11 since getting it at 45k miles and any oil consumption since has been unnoticeable on the dipstick. My 07 GT on the other hand would use about a quart in 3000 miles.

I do also have the 3.73 whine, but considering taking it in for a noise from what sound like the passenger side wheel area that is fairly faint, increases with vehicle speed, and the sound is hard to describe but kind of like the sound a ball bearing caster wheel would make. Also have a rumble/vibe that is felt when cruising between 70-80 then letting off the gas, enough to make the rear view mirror vibrate. It goes away when the speed drops below 65. I thought maybe it had to do with tire balance but just put new tires on and there is a little less vibe but it's still there.

Just need to get these things looked at before I hit 60k miles, but I'm sure I'd need to remove the lca and panhard before I take it in since I'm sure they would blame those even though it did it on the stock parts

 

[BruceH]

I will guess that it was babied the first 100 miles and the rings never seated correctly. Once the ring edges get polished over they will never really wear any more so your window of opportunity is long gone. When I first test drove my car it had 27 miles on the odometer. I let the oil warm up and after driving about a mile I got on it for a full throttle pull from 20 to 75. Made a couple more hard pulls before the test drive was over.

This is why the manufacturers no longer recommend any break in procedure, because 90% of people will instantly think that they need to baby the car and that's the worst thing you can do for ring seating. By the time they start using the gas pedal after several hundred miles it's too late. BTW, my car burned a quart in the first 1000 miles and less than a half quart in the last 5000 miles.

FWIW part of no break in is due to the advanced machining manufacturers now use. A diamond hone is supposed to break in within a few revolutions because it's so precise.

OP it sucks that you have this issue. FWIW I had a 2.0 Jetta that used the same amount of oil but it had 40% of the displacement you have. One quart every 1000 has always been acceptable from a dealer standpoint. Some people might see this as a reason to build the motor, hint.

Have you put a catch can on to see how much is being blown out? As long as the consumption doesn't increase it's more of a hassle than anything else. Have you asked the dealer to do an oil consumption test?

 

[ridenfish39]

I have a jlt can and gt 500 pcv. I complained to 2 different dealers and was given the run around so I gave up.
I've never gotten a loaner car either. Even Mazda gave me one when my Mazdaspeed 3 was in for issues.

 

[dre256]

I've never gotten a loaner car either. Even Mazda gave me one when my Mazdaspeed 3 was in for issues.

A month ago our 2013 transit connect van at work transmission bearings and clutches went that is only 8 months old and has 17K miles on it (bought new). Long story short, took them 10 working days to fix it and wouldn't give a loaner. Reason they gave me is, Ford will not supply loaners vehicles unless you buy the Ford extended warranty.

 

[BruceH]

A month ago our 2013 transit connect van at work transmission bearings and clutches went that is only 8 months old and has 17K miles on it (bought new). Long story short, took them 10 working days to fix it and wouldn't give a loaner. Reason they gave me is, Ford will not supply loaners vehicles unless you buy the Ford extended warranty.

I think that's a dealer issue. We had a tsb done to our 2012 focus and were offered a loaner right away. I've never had an extended warranty.

It might be time to find a better dealer who values your hard earned money and business.

 

[FIVE-OH]

I think that's a dealer issue. We had a tsb done to our 2012 focus and were offered a loaner right away. I've never had an extended warranty.

It might be time to find a better dealer who values your hard earned money and business.

This.

My dealer gives me a loaner for everything.

 

[BadHabit2Break]

OP - what does your catch can look like when the oil is low? Is there any in there?

My '12 does not burn any, and I even have the Peterson catch can setup and it is dry also.

 

[ridenfish39]

I get a couple tea spoons after a few hundred miles. It's definitely getting by the rings. If I had the know how and tools I'd rebuild the engine with forged rods and pistons. It's too much money for me to justify paying someone to do it. I may as well trade it in and let someone else deal with it.

 

[BruceH]

I get a couple tea spoons after a few hundred miles. It's definitely getting by the rings. If I had the know how and tools I'd rebuild the engine with forged rods and pistons. It's too much money for me to justify paying someone to do it. I may as well trade it in and let someone else deal with it.

A rebuild isn't that difficult. The hardest part is finding a good machine shop. Your part in it is to assemble. It's nothing more than putting parts together and checking a few measurements.

You could get a set of Boss rods with bolts for under $200 shipped. Add in a nice set of Mahle pistons with rings for $600, new bearings for $100, main and head bolts with head gaskets for another $150 and you are into it a little over $1000 plus machine shop costs which should be around $600 or so.

There will be a few other odds and ends but that covers all the big stuff. It would be hard to spend more that $2k for a rods and pistons upgrade with you doing the work. With those parts the motor should be good until the block limits are hit.

Something to think about. Here is the instruction manual: http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=822

 

[ridenfish39]

Well, aside from not having an engine hoist and only basic tools I don't have a garage. I live in Philly, I'm happy to have a seperate driveway lol.