Accufab 85mm T body Test results (Real Deal) NA

ViciousJay

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Is this a joke or do you think its 1973 still?

BWAHAHA cant wait to watch you go BOOM! please do it to your car and video it so i can make multiple LMAO comments at you when you torch it and your crying, i dont know any tuner tuning our cars with 12.8 or higher a/f. they may throw some high spark at it but the a/f should be a 12.4 or lower
 
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wproctor411

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Those are also SAE numbers. Most people post dyno numbers are STD and they read a little higher. I got pretty much the same setup but with BBK longtube headers and minus the TB my car 425 rwhp SAE. If it was reading STD I would be in the 440 rwhp range.

I like the throttle body.
We have very similar mods I hit 418 SAE in mid summer and it jumped up in the fall when the car had more miles on it and we had better D/A. Same Dyno. At a local event on a different Dyno I was in the 430's and thats what made me realize Dyno numbers vary so much its really just good to measure mod results. I have the BBK headers an I'm pulling 116-11mph in the 1/4. I need to practice shifting better and then I will be running consistent 11's. Maybe the throttle body will help LOL!
 

TheRookie65

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Mine just arrived.... Will install it later today or tommorow morning......

Just installed on a stock intake manifold with a Steeda CAI. The Steeda has a 3.5 inch tube and the TB is 4 inch, which the Steeda hose did fit with some stretching and a new 4 inch clamp. There were no other issues with the install.
 
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NickSezz

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Mine just arrived.... Will install it later today or tommorow morning......

Just installed on a stock intake manifold with a Steeda CAI. The Steeda has a 3.5 inch tube and the TB is 4 inch, which the Steeda hose did fit with some stretching and a new 4 inch clamp. There were no other issues with the install.

AND THEN.......!!!!????
 

TheRookie65

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Took the stang out today and did some normal driving and a couple of wot pulls....

Normal Driving= No change, drives and idles just like it did before....

WOT: The car was more aggressive below the power band thus reaching it faster.... However, it sounded like I had a vacuum leak so I pulled back in the driveway opened the hood and hit the throttle.... It is coming from the CAI filter.... I guess because of the increased airflow.... It has a whistle sound to it...

NICK are you gonna ge one?
 

CuriousGeorge

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OK guys, so what's the general consensus of this AccuFab TB?

Stock intake with aftermarket CAI and tune = no gains?
Boss 302 intake manifold w/CAI and tune = +20HP/TQ midrange gains?

Let's get to the nuts of it, for $600 what can this throttle body do for the Coyote? For that much much cheddar there are many other proven options (NOS, Headers, off-road-X).

Plain and simply put, why is the AccuFab worth purchasing?
-CuriousGeorge
 

COYO TT

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Calvin (levelbelow2000) will chime in eventually. On his car he dynoed the TB with stock and boss intake making no real gains at Revolution auto. I would hold off until he explains his results
 

CuriousGeorge

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Calvin (levelbelow2000) will chime in eventually. On his car he dynoed the TB with stock and boss intake making no real gains at Revolution auto. I would hold off until he explains his results

Thanks CoyoTT, I'm genuinely curious to here what your friend has to report. I'm not one for spreading mis-information and would like to see what the numbers have to say before dropping half a paycheck on a part that has no substantiated results.

AccuFab is hands-down the best manufacturer of throttle-bodies (used one on my old 2004 2V GT). But before I drop that much money on their new product I want to KNOW that it is worth it and I'm sure I'm not alone here.

Thanks again,
-CG
 

Full_Tilt

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BWAHAHA cant wait to watch you go BOOM! please do it to your car and video it so i can make multiple LMAO comments at you when you torch it and your crying, i dont know any tuner tuning our cars with 12.8 or higher a/f. they may throw some high spark at it but the a/f should be a 12.4 or lower

Well you must not know many tuners.

If you knew shit you would know that AFRs dont really mean much. Ideal AFR is heavily influenced by ignition advance and in the end youre really targeting BSFC based on output.
There are LOTS of ways to tune an engine. To simplify it for someone as ignornat as yourself, you could say that you can tune with "more fuel and more advance", or "less fuel and less advance". The latter is more difficult but usually offers improved performance.

"a/f should be a 12.4 or lower" <= Hilarious, absolutely hilarious.
 
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CuriousGeorge

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Well you must not know many tuners.

If you knew shit you would know that AFRs dont really mean much. Ideal AFR is heavily influenced by ignition advance and in the end youre really targeting BSFC based on output.
There are LOTS of ways to tune an engine. To simplify it for someone as ignornat as yourself, you could say that you can tune with "more fuel and more advance", or "less fuel and less advance". The latter is more difficult but usually offers improved performance.

"a/f should be a 12.4 or lower" <= Hilarious, absolutely hilarious.

Well, I enjoy reading both of your inputs as to proper A/F ratio. A/F or Lambda is actually a pretty involved topic, but to put it simply in a way that most can understand, there is only one real ideal air to fuel ratio, 14.6. However, in real world, modern gasolene engines that work in the northern hemisphere, there are far many other aspects involved. For the sake of simplicity and to reduce arguments, let's all just agree that the the 2011+ 5.0L Coyote requires a A/F of 12.8 OK? Yes? That means, ah hell, it don't really matter what it means! You will all argue against it anyways....I'm too drunk, and too tired to try to explain a simple, and very fundamental fact to those who have not gone through high-school auto or trade-school.

Those of you who have, you get it.

Fuck the idiots on this forum!:kma:
 

Full_Tilt

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14.7 = stoich = Theoretical best AFR for emissions. It minimizes unburned hydrocarbons (result of being rich) and minimizes NOx (result of being lean).

As for best AFR for output. It depends, although its typically between 13.0:1 to 13.5:1

MBT is going to change with AFR, so you have 2 independent variables right there. Not to mention whats going on with cam timing.
Saying something like >12.4 AFR is inherently dangerous or aggressive is just silly.
Ideal AFR is going to change across the RPM range with any engine, and especially so with an engine like this with such a great variance in cam timing.

Based on what the OP is doing and what hes accomplished, I bet hes got a good tuner. He should listen to his tuner and now some forum jockey making generalizations.
 
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TheRookie65

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Calvin (levelbelow2000) will chime in eventually. On his car he dynoed the TB with stock and boss intake making no real gains at Revolution auto. I would hold off until he explains his results

Is that going to be anytime soon? I know some people here are waiting for a second opinion.....
 

NickSezz

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Took the stang out today and did some normal driving and a couple of wot pulls....

Normal Driving= No change, drives and idles just like it did before....

WOT: The car was more aggressive below the power band thus reaching it faster.... However, it sounded like I had a vacuum leak so I pulled back in the driveway opened the hood and hit the throttle.... It is coming from the CAI filter.... I guess because of the increased airflow.... It has a whistle sound to it...

NICK are you gonna ge one?

I am looking for a few more results before I jump on it. JDM Engineering told me they saw gains with the 90mm Ford Racing TB and tapered spacer. I remember hearing a 12 number but I kinda forgot lol. They also told me tune adjusting was needed as it did affect idle characteristics. We shall see.
 
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