Ah, the benefits of seat time and targeted practice...

[SlowJim]

Sparco Chrono would be a good fit for you. Standard size is 20" for hip width (Z on photo below) and wider size is 21". No seat is gonna come close to having the harness holes level with your shoulders @ 28" though.

 

[Sharad]

Hearing about all of this controlled countersteer just reminds me of growing up driving 5.0 Mustangs in the Midwest. Lots of time spent in the snow and rain.

 

[kcbrown]

Sparco Chrono would be a good fit for you. Standard size is 20" for hip width (Z on photo below) and wider size is 21". No seat is gonna come close to having the harness holes level with your shoulders @ 28" though.

Well, the problem is that the design of that seat doesn't really look any different than the design of my Recaros, so unfortunately, I doubt there would be much, if any, benefit to switching to them, particularly since the only weakness of my current seats seems to be in the upper body area, and this seat certainly doesn't have much in the way of support there.

Also, cue up the comments about those not being "real" racing seats in 3 ... 2 .... 1 ...


I can probably improve the holding of my seat slightly by reducing the amount of incline I'm currently giving the seat. I'll have to try that and see if that improves things. I have enough headroom that I think I can get away with it.

 

[csamsh]

Also, cue up the comments about those not being "real" racing seats in 3 ... 2 .... 1 ...

!

But yeah I agree. No point in getting those over your Recaros.

Seats are like helmets. No try, no buy.

 

[kcbrown]

So I straightened up the seat back on my Recaros a little, and I do think that helps to hold me in place a little better.

There are two insurmountable problems, however:

1. The forward angle of the top of the seat pushes my head forward some when I'm wearing a helmet. When I'm sitting in the seat, the top of my head extends past the top of the seat by about 3 inches or so. This puts the largest part of my head right at the top of the seat back, which is also its forward-most point.
2. Even with my headliner modification (removal of the stock headliner, replacement with a glass roof headliner with the edges cut back even further, and lining the roof with a thin layer of padding), my head hits the ceiling with the seat inclined far enough forward to truly hold me in place properly. I fit fine without the helmet, but that does me no good on the track.

The first point almost forces me to lean a little forward when wearing a helmet. I don't do so much, but it is a little, and there's nothing I can do about it. It's one of the reasons I slightly recline the seat back more than perhaps I "should". The issue of headroom clearance just adds some finality to the amount of recline I'm using.

The bottom line is that my bet is that there isn't a truly good seat (good for high performance driving, at least) made for these cars, or for any other for that matter, that will truly fit me properly, and that this is simply as good as it's ever going to get.

 

[white86hatch]

So I straightened up the seat back on my Recaros a little, and I do think that helps to hold me in place a little better.

There are two insurmountable problems, however:

1. The forward angle of the top of the seat pushes my head forward some when I'm wearing a helmet. When I'm sitting in the seat, the top of my head extends past the top of the seat by about 3 inches or so. This puts the largest part of my head right at the top of the seat back, which is also its forward-most point.
2. Even with my headliner modification (removal of the stock headliner, replacement with a glass roof headliner with the edges cut back even further, and lining the roof with a thin layer of padding), my head hits the ceiling with the seat inclined far enough forward to truly hold me in place properly. I fit fine without the helmet, but that does me no good on the track.

The first point almost forces me to lean a little forward when wearing a helmet. I don't do so much, but it is a little, and there's nothing I can do about it. It's one of the reasons I slightly recline the seat back more than perhaps I "should". The issue of headroom clearance just adds some finality to the amount of recline I'm using.

The bottom line is that my bet is that there isn't a truly good seat (good for high performance driving, at least) made for these cars, or for any other for that matter, that will truly fit me properly, and that this is simply as good as it's ever going to get.

Did I miss the post where you said you sat in an evo 3? Or are you just going off of the measurements on their site?

 

[SoundGuyDave]

Seats.... The EVO3 is MASSIVE, and for track use, you can easily pull the seat-bottom pad and buy yourself another inch or two in vertical clearance. Before you "kill" the seat from the contender list completely, you owe it to yourself to at least sit in one, with and without the bottom pad. You can also adjust things a bit with a thin layer of Ethafoam (1/4" or 1/2") which will give you plenty of "padding" if you're worried about that.

The ultimate solution would honestly be a custom seat, and they aren't necessarily that bad price-wise, either. Joie Of Seating, Kirkey and Ultrashield all do custom-fabbed seats around the measurements you give them. Yes, they will be a bit more of a pain to install than the typical FIA seat, simply because you HAVE to use a back brace with them, but:

1) A custom-fit seat is NOWHERE NEAR as "uncomfortable" to sit in as you might think. It looks like (and is) an aluminum shell, with a thin pad of foam and fabric, but trust me, it's more cushy than you would expect. I have NO padding on my ass, AT ALL, flat as an ironing board from shoulder blades to ankles, and I can (and did) tolerate 3-4hr drives in one without real complaint, on Midwest roads (home of the pothole!). If the seat fits right, you're just snug in it, and very, very comfortable.

2) If you're worried about the "daily-driver" end of things, it honestly only takes 10 minutes (30 with an aluminum seat) to swap out for the stocker. Do the swap before you head to the track, and life is good. Get home and swap back, life is still good!

3) Pricing seems to be right in line with a standard decent FIA seat, and will weigh less than most of the ones not made from carbon-fiber and pixie dust. You know, the stupid expensive ones?

4) The aluminum seat requires more fabrication to mount, but isn't anywhere near impossible for a DIY guy. Bolt a seat adapter into the car, mock up the seat position with spacers (I use rolls of tape, since they're cheap and come in 1/4", 1/2", 1" and 2" thicknesses), then lay in a pair of side-mount brackets and mark with a Sharpie. You WILL need to lift the seat. When I did one in my S197, with the seat sitting on the car floor, I was eye-level with the center of the steering wheel, and I'm just under 6'. The thickness of the seat is only 1/8" without padding, which only adds another 1/4"! You WILL find your perfect seating position in one. Once the seat's in the perfect spot, just add the back-brace and harnesses, and you're off to the races.

5) I forget which it is (Kirkey, I think), but at least one of the manufacturers can do a bolt-on helmet containment section. Toss it in the trunk, and put it in place when you get to the track, and then unbolt it before you drive home. With it in place, it's a HUGE safety bonus on track, but kills your ability to swivel your head around on the street.

Of course, this pre-supposes that you have (or will have) a rollbar in place, to support the harnesses and the seat-back brace. Since you're worried about shoulder harness slot height, that is a potentially valid assumption.

 

[kcbrown]

Did I miss the post where you said you sat in an evo 3? Or are you just going off of the measurements on their site?

I'm going by the measurements.

If they were off by only an inch or something, that would be one thing. But being off by 5 inches in width at the hips is sufficient to make it reasonable to discount the Evo 3 as an option.

But yeah, I should try sitting in one anyway.

 

[2008 V6]

Seats....

The ultimate solution would honestly be a custom seat, and they aren't necessarily that bad price-wise, either. Joie Of Seating, Kirkey and Ultrashield all do custom-fabbed seats around the measurements you give them. Yes, they will be a bit more of a pain to install than the typical FIA seat, simply because you HAVE to use a back brace with them, but:

1) A custom-fit seat is NOWHERE NEAR as "uncomfortable" to sit in as you might think. It looks like (and is) an aluminum shell, with a thin pad of foam and fabric, but trust me, it's more cushy than you would expect. I have NO padding on my ass, AT ALL, flat as an ironing board from shoulder blades to ankles, and I can (and did) tolerate 3-4hr drives in one without real complaint, on Midwest roads (home of the pothole!). If the seat fits right, you're just snug in it, and very, very comfortable.

2) If you're worried about the "daily-driver" end of things, it honestly only takes 10 minutes (30 with an aluminum seat) to swap out for the stocker. Do the swap before you head to the track, and life is good. Get home and swap back, life is still good!

3) Pricing seems to be right in line with a standard decent FIA seat, and will weigh less than most of the ones not made from carbon-fiber and pixie dust. You know, the stupid expensive ones?

4) The aluminum seat requires more fabrication to mount, but isn't anywhere near impossible for a DIY guy. Bolt a seat adapter into the car, mock up the seat position with spacers (I use rolls of tape, since they're cheap and come in 1/4", 1/2", 1" and 2" thicknesses), then lay in a pair of side-mount brackets and mark with a Sharpie. You WILL need to lift the seat. When I did one in my S197, with the seat sitting on the car floor, I was eye-level with the center of the steering wheel, and I'm just under 6'. The thickness of the seat is only 1/8" without padding, which only adds another 1/4"! You WILL find your perfect seating position in one. Once the seat's in the perfect spot, just add the back-brace and harnesses, and you're off to the races.

5) I forget which it is (Kirkey, I think), but at least one of the manufacturers can do a bolt-on helmet containment section. Toss it in the trunk, and put it in place when you get to the track, and then unbolt it before you drive home. With it in place, it's a HUGE safety bonus on track, but kills your ability to swivel your head around on the street.

Of course, this pre-supposes that you have (or will have) a rollbar in place, to support the harnesses and the seat-back brace. Since you're worried about shoulder harness slot height, that is a potentially valid assumption.

+1

Kirkely Custom – Aluminum NO recertification
Carbon Fiber / Fiberglass limited life expectancy and must be re-certified. I think in 5 years from date of manufacture. I could be wrong but I’m sure someone can chime in.

 

[Mark Aubele]

I have a really big Kirkey at the house here. Let me know if you would like some measurements, came in a car I bought too big for me (5'10 220 32" waist) .

 

[SoundGuyDave]

+1

Kirkely Custom – Aluminum NO recertification
Carbon Fiber / Fiberglass limited life expectancy and must be re-certified. I think in 5 years from date of manufacture. I could be wrong but I’m sure someone can chime in.

Close enough. The FIA-spec seats "expire" 5 years from date of manufacture, and there is no re-certification process. After 5 year, you have to treat it like any other non-FIA seat, and use a seat-back brace. At least under the NASA rules, anyway. I think SCCA is the same way. If you fix-mount the seat anyway, there's nothing about the expiration that should really worry you. If you're on sliders though (and trying to pass race-tech), then yes, you need to consider the seat a consumable item, like your harnesses, nets, and fuel cell bladder.

 

[kcbrown]

So as it happens, the seatback position I'm using at the moment is slightly less inclined than the one I was using at the track, but still allows my helmet to clear the roof with a little room to spare. So I'll try using that setting at the next event (not until July, unfortunately) and see how well it works. While driving on the street, it feels like it holds me in a bit better.

Regardless, if I find that my seat isn't holding me in well enough, then I'll visit the problem at that point. Maybe there will be new offerings by then that will fit someone like me...

 

[2008 V6]

Thanks Dave -

I didn't think belts could be re-certified either BUT I know some one who sends his belts out every 2 years to get re-sewn for certification. Ya never know.
Not my idea of Ideal but to each their own - Usually 5 years for belts too.
Just got my fuel bladder re-certified - Good for 3 more years thankfully

 

[Osiris]

I got a custom Kirkey seat. There is a form you can fill out to get every single dimension custom. It was only 200 more to get it made. So I wanna say about 1k for seat and mounts and cushion and cage brace. 45 series. 19 inch at hips.

https://www.kirkeyracing.com/catego...-Deluxe-18-Layback-Road-Race-Containment-Seat