All Motor Chat - High Gearing, Light weight, Revin to the moon-

SSPSTANGBANGER

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I have 1 7/8 stainless works on mine with cobra jet intake cobra jet cams etc I figure in the 5-8k rpm range I will be in the 1 7/8 will loose little to nothing if not gain a little at 7-8k rpm


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ford20

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Well 1 3/4 is bigger than 1 5/8. I think you mean 1 7/8. The Pypes design is stepped and should be good across the board.
Shit ... My bad, I did mean 1 3/4 or the 1 7/8ths.

I assume that I might pick up some power up top with the 1 7/8ths but loose some torque but a lot of threads on SVTP are saying that the 1 3/4 are the optimal size for a N/A engine but is that just for cars with bolt-ons?

I have 1 7/8 stainless works on mine with cobra jet intake cobra jet cams etc I figure in the 5-8k rpm range I will be in the 1 7/8 will loose little to nothing if not gain a little at 7-8k rpm


Sent from my iPhone 5S

That was my thoughts on it as well but people are saying that 1 7/8ths would be way to big for a N/A engine.
 

wbt

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Shit ... My bad, I did mean 1 3/4 or the 1 7/8ths.

I assume that I might pick up some power up top with the 1 7/8ths but loose some torque but a lot of threads on SVTP are saying that the 1 3/4 are the optimal size for a N/A engine but is that just for cars with bolt-ons?

M78876956.jpg


^^^ Has you covered across the board. Proper primary tube placement, stepped, great fit. :highfive:

Terry should be able to get you a good price on them (Pypes).
 

Matt D

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On another note I have found the light weight mufflers I have been looking for.

lp_aluminumracemuffler.jpg


Vibrant weighing in at 1.7lb's each.
 

TheBlackPearl

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So, back to the subject of cams. If got comp to grind me a set of 127300's with a 113 degree LCA and a 102 degree ICL, do you think it would perform similarly to the 127500's? This would allow me to retain VCT. I like the lower lift numbers for valve train stability/wear.

Here's the spec sheets for the two cams:
300's
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=976&sb=2
500's
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=980&sb=0

Tentative motor specs:
Diamond Flat Top Pistons (11:1 CR)
Ported Heads
FRPP Intake
JLT 110mm
Kooks 1 5/8 LT's
Good Rotating Assy.
Rev'd out to 7500 ish

Also, what do you guys think of these brakes?

http://shop.aerospacecomponents.com/4pistonfrontprostreetkit05-06mustang.aspx
 

ford20

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Has anyone heard of any other N/A mods you can do to these Coyote's?

Currently I have:

  • RGR Stage 2 heads
  • RGR Custom Grind Cams
  • Ported CJ Intake Manifold
  • Super Cobra Jet Monoblade Throttle Body
  • JLT Cobra Jet CAI
  • Kooks 1 7/8ths Long Tube Headers
  • Kooks Green Cats for emissions - I know I could get more with O/R pipe, but I still need to meet emissions
  • JPC 2 3/4 Over Axle Pipes
  • JPC Alternator Pulley
  • Innovators West Balancer - Slightly lighter than the ATI Balancer
  • DSS Carbon Fiber Driveshaft

Outside of the Electric Water Pump, does anyone know of anything else in terms of N/A mods for the 5.0?
 

Scott

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Has anyone heard of any other N/A mods you can do to these Coyote's?

Currently I have:

  • RGR Stage 2 heads
  • RGR Custom Grind Cams
  • Ported CJ Intake Manifold
  • Super Cobra Jet Monoblade Throttle Body
  • JLT Cobra Jet CAI
  • Kooks 1 7/8ths Long Tube Headers
  • Kooks Green Cats for emissions - I know I could get more with O/R pipe, but I still need to meet emissions
  • JPC 2 3/4 Over Axle Pipes
  • JPC Alternator Pulley
  • Innovators West Balancer - Slightly lighter than the ATI Balancer
  • DSS Carbon Fiber Driveshaft

Outside of the Electric Water Pump, does anyone know of anything else in terms of N/A mods for the 5.0?

Have you considered AC delete?
 

TheBlackPearl

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Also if the chassis is a 2011+ you could swap out your steering rack for a flaming river manual rack. Not a power mod but lightens up the car a bit.
 

ford20

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Have you considered AC delete?

I have thought about it, but I didn't want to go that far right now as I would still drive the car quite regularly on the road during the summer. I was also thinking of doing the wiper fluid delete since I don't tend to use it that often and it will save some weight.

I doubt, I would do the manual rack as it will more of an open track car/autocross car and then eventually move into AIX once my skills develop even more.
 

TheBlackPearl

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Swap the heads out for 2016 heads. They have better valve train geometry, can handle a more aggressive camshaft at sustained high rpm.
 

ford20

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Those are the 2015+ heads and I'm not swapping out $4,000 machined heads for the GT350 ones haha. They should flow about as well as the GT350 heads and with the larger valves and a little bowl work should work pretty well.
 

06 3v

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Sorry to bring a old thread back to life but I was wondering if I can run 4.56 rear gear with 100shot and full bolt ons with a 28inch tire
 

46addict

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Sorry to bring a old thread back to life but I was wondering if I can run 4.56 rear gear with 100shot and full bolt ons with a 28inch tire

For a track focused car gearing should be based around trap speed and avoiding a shift just before the stripe. With a 4.56 expect 6500+rpm at 120mph on 28" tires.
 

tjm73

of Omicron Persei 8
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Off topic but what happened to US-1? (sd wheeler?)

He is/was a scammer that screwed a few people here and if you google him that is/was his MO on other boards as well. We ran him off.
 

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